The continuing saga of Niksons 1402 IMP sn 129

[turbinator62]

Here are some pictures of the clutch facings. The organic one that I just removed has some cratering, probably from heat that delaminated the lining. The second photo is side by side, organic on the left and metallic on the right. The metallic one on the right is one that Nik put in new when he rebuilt it. He also gave me the one he replaced and it was the same type, but not worn to the rivets.
I'm going to do a little more searching to see if I can find bulk carbon metallic lining before I put it back together. Carbon metallic has a higher heat tolerance, but if the new oil keeps it from slipping, it won't get hot.
All advice is welcome.

 

[MNoutdoors RIP]

I think I would contact these guys as much wear as you have had in the past this material should help that.



http://www.tribco.com/wetclutch.php

 

[turbinator62]

Wow. Thanks a lot. I'll give them a call.

 

[MNoutdoors RIP]

Wow. Thanks a lot. I'll give them a call.

No problem, we have used that material before with very good results they most likely would want you to send the plate in to them for lining there are producing many of the tractor discs with the internal teeth now.

 

[turbinator62]

I called Tribco and talked to a really nice guy named Gary. Very willing to help. Their linings are Kevlar and have a high temp rating with 1/3 -1/5 the wear rate of organic linings. I think this may be the way to go. Anything that will keep me from having too pull the engine again will be worth it.
Thanks!

 

[MNoutdoors RIP]

Did they give you a price idea? Just curious

 

[turbinator62]

Not yet. I'm going to email them pictures on Monday and see what they think.

 

[MNoutdoors RIP]

Copy That.

 

[mtncrawler]

It seems as though the friction lining should have slots grooved into it for oil evacuation. Could be off base here but that was my first thought.

 

[turbinator62]

That would seem to make sense. I'll ask the guy at Tribco about it.

 

[turbinator62]

Did they give you a price idea? Just curious

I got the quote from Tribco on the clutch facings. 2 steel backed (.060) with bonded Kevlar facings (.065) are $115. They are on order. I will have to drill and counterbore them for rivets myself. They are cutting slots for oil escape also.
I'll post pictures when I get them.
Thanks again for the heads up.

 

[turbinator62]

I tried to get insurance for my cat today and they told me I need an appraisal. Is there any one here on the forums who is familiar with my cat who can do that or knows some one who can?
Thanks.

 

[Snowtrac Nome]

there is a few out there who are dealers boggie and snow trans come to mind snow trans is in your general area

 

[backroad explorer]

Hello Turbinator62,
Sno-Trans is in Weiser, Idaho it's where Nickson bought the IMP. Very nice folks there. I have been following this thread for a while now since I found out My old IMP found a good home. I'm glad it turned out so nice. If you would like some early info on it let me know. I had it about 10 years before I sold it to Bill at Sno-Trans.

Brian Hamilton
McCall, Idaho

 

[turbinator62]

Yes, I would really appreciate any info you could give me on the IMP. Did you ever have any clutch problems? This cat is perfect for our use so if the new clutch and oil will solve the slipping problems, I will be a happy camper.
When I saw this cat for sale I knew it was what I wanted. Nik did a great job updating it and his workmanship is excellent.
You can post to this thread or contact me through private mail whatever you prefer.
Thanks!

 

[turbinator62]

The UPS man delivered the new Tribco clutch facings today. So I jumped right on getting them drilled and riveted. They have a 1/16" Kevlar lining bonded to a 1/16" steel backing with the oil grooves installed. I countered bored and countersunk them to leave the rivet head .050" below the facing. This will allow for .100" total wear. Also, when it wears out, the clutch plates will contact the brass rivet heads while there is still .013" of lining left preventing contact with the steel backing plates and damaging the pressure plate. This is essentially the same rivet depth attainable with the standard linings, but easier and less fragile due to the steel backings.
The pictures are a step by step of the process.
I hope to get the engine back in tomorrow and see how it works.
Thanks again to everyone for the advice on this.

 

[jp11]

Just like seeing the work... you don't do anything half azzed

JP

 

[turbinator62]

One step forward, three steps backward. I put the engine in and got as far as tightening the engine mount bolts when I noticed a spot of oil on the floor. Crap!! I tightened the gearbox drain plug some more and it got worse!! So out comes the engine again. It seems there is a crack emanating from the drain plug to the gasket flange and up into the lower bolt hole. I always had a little oil in the belly pan but the new lower viscosity oil ran through the crack much easier. I have had problems with cracks in cast material near a tapered pipe thread before. A tapered pipe fitting can put a tremendous amount of radial force on a hole. Just like a wedge.
My solution was to grind out the crack, hit it with a torch to carbonize the oil in the crack so it doesn't affect the filler material. Then I used JB Weld to seal it up. I have had good results with this product on similar not structural applications. I also JB'b a stud into the lower bolt hole. To prevent this from happening again, I JB'b a 1/2" to 3/8 pipe reducing bushing into the drain hole. This extends the stressed part of the fitting outside of the cast housing. It is just a drain hole so a little smaller size is OK.
This process would probably work for for any non structural part of a cast housing with a crack at a bolt or plug hole.

 

[DAVENET]

 

[turbinator62]

It's all back together again. (Second time a charm) No leaks. This new clutch seems to be a little "stickier". Less pressure is required for engagement and that is a good thing. Probably due to a combination of the new oil and Kevlar clutch linings. Now I have to wait for winter for the real test. This is the 3rd time I have had to take the engine out. I'm getting good at it, but don't want to do it again.
Got the snowcat done so now I have to go in for a new hip next week. Pretty soon our Saturday pilots meeting will have enough titanium in the room to build our own SR-71.
Question-When you croak and you get cremated does your wife get the scrap value of your metal parts? Just wondering.

 

[sno-drifter]

I don't know about the scrap value, but my wife says "He who dies with the most toys is still dead".

 

[JimVT]

I would say no to your question
Question-When you croak and you get cremated does your wife get the scrap value of your metal parts? Just wondering

my dentist told me someone stopped with a small amount of gold wanting to sell it. after questioning he was told it was picked up after people were cremated .
this was before gold was legal to own.
I would bet no metal is in the remains.

 

[turbinator62]

I got these cool led lights on ebay for about 3 bucks. I put them on the back of the cat for back up lights. They are incredibly bright and self adhesive. You can also get them in red, green, blue and yellow.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-Super-Br...proof-DC12V-/111980537797?hash=item1a128f67c5
The cat is all done now so I will be taking it back to Ellensburg as soon as I recover from hip surgery.

 

[wasatchjohn]

Haven't checked on this thread in a while. I'm always impressed with your work (and the guy who did the earlier work).

Very helpful info on the clutch.

Just started de-constructing my 1402 for a full resto.

Hope the hip heals up well!

 

[turbinator62]

Hi John. Looking forward to seeing the progress on your cat. Make sure you check the clutch ring closely for cracks. Mine had cracks at 3 of the holes and there were 2 one inch cracks in the radius between the OD and the cam face. New rings are available.

I'm home from the hospital but my hip was way worse than they thought. Bone on bone. it's taking longer to get mobile than I wished. Not much pain now but excruiating at fist.

 

[BearGap]

Let me know f you need a hand with anything. I'm only about 10 minutes away.

 

[turbinator62]

My wife is doing a good job taking care of me. I'll owe her a fancy vacation after this. I had all of my projects done before I went in so I can focus on getting back to normal. Give me a month or so and come on down. I'll give you a tour of the cat. I probably won't take it back to Ellensburg till later in the summer.

 

[turbinator62]

I'm 2 weeks out from new hip surgery. Doing better but bored out of my skull. About all I can do is push my walker around the house. UGH!
I never got around to making a schematic of the electrical system on the cat so sat down and got that done. It may be of use to someone with the same requirements.
The diodes are used as blocking diodes. I wanted the tail lites and instrument lights to come on with any of the head lights. (High, Low, Fog) Without the diodes, a parallel hookup would result in all of the head lights coming on at the same time with any switch since they would feed back through the tail light circuit.
The blocking diodes in the windshield wiper circuit are needed because there are two wiper motors on one switch. The wipers don't run at exactly the same speed, so as they get out of sync, without the diodes on one motor, the park switch from one side will feed back to the other side and they will never shut off until eventually they both open the park switch at the same time. With the diodes, the right one will stop then the left.
The hour meter relay allows a single N/C oil pressure switch to run a low oil pressure light and an hour meter that clocks time only when the engine is running.
I put in the manual breaker so that the entire electrical system can be disconnected from the battery when I leave it parked. A big marine or RV disconnect switch would work as well.
Feel free to ask any electrical questions. I'll be here.

 

[DAVENET]

You appear to have forgotten the circuit for the remote mount margarita mixer.

 

[PJL]

Very nice work.