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The continuing saga of Niksons 1402 IMP sn 129

BoyToys said:
Just chiming in. Years ago bought one of those thermoelectric 'self powered' fans and while they're kinda cool, they don't move any cfm to speak of. You're better off with a ceiling fan moving air around. Just saying.
I use a ceiling fan at my off grid log cabin wired into my AC inverter, to move the hot air down from my loft where I sleep nights. It can be 70F downstairs and 90F upstairs without it. Before bed I let the fire burn down and fire up the fan in advance. It's on a timer so I dont have to get up to shut it off when I'm about to doze off.
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The little thermal electric fan does blow air and helps. The nice thing about it is it works when the stove is barely warm. I also made a Stirling engine fan with a 12" 5 blade fan which moves a lot of air but only works when the stove is really hot when we initially warm up the cabin. We also have two 4 blade 12 volt Backwoods Solar 3 speed ceiling fans wigh a remote that have worked well for over 20 years. They only draw about 1/2 amp on low speed. We run them 24/7. I have 475 watts of solar into 2 golf cart batteries in series with a simple PWM charge controller. A newer MPPT charge controller would be more efficient but I haven't gotten around to changing it.
 
DAVENET said:
Is your five blade stove fan noticeably more effective than the smaller four blade? We have the small one at our camp, and while it does move air, it is less than impressive.
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The litte fan is thermo electric and works even when the stove is barely warm. Doesn't move a lot of air but helps. The big fan is a mechanical Stirling engine that I made. It moves a lot of air but only works when the stove is really hot like when we initially warm up the cabin when we first get here in the winter. It works on the principle of differential temperature (expansion-contraction) between the lower cylinder (hot) and the upper finned cylinder (cool). We also have two 12 volt ceiling fans that run 24/7 that keep the loft temp and the lower floor temps close.
 
redsqwrl said:
Turbin 8 tor, did you ever need a clutch or monkey with yours.

I have acquired a air cooled imp. I really like it. And found i can over power the clutch in fourth range.

Ill likely not monkey with it till its necessary or spring.

Mostly curious if your clutch can snub the engine in 4th
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Do you have a Wisconsin manual? You can do a search on Google for a VH4D manual. Pitt Auto Electric has a free PDF download. I also have a copy of the original Thiokol manual I can email
 
turbinator62 said:
Sorry for the late reply. For some reason I didn't get a notification of your post on my emai.
After I replaced the clutch disk with a new Tribco kevlar unit, but most importantly started using tractor hydraulic oil (John Deer Hygard) it has not slipped in any gear in 9 years and I haven't had to adjust it. I can kill the engine in 4th. The Wisconsin manual says to use engine oil in the clutch case. But that was based on oil specs from the 60's. Engine oil has gotten way more slippery in the years since. Read my posts from early 2016 on because I had the same problem. You may want to pull the clutch and make sure it isn't down to the rivets. First thing I would is change the oil.. Have you also tried adjusting it?
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I did not. I figured it was adjustable as the machine was built before ralph nader took most of our fun away with litigation and safety concerns. I will google tribco kevlar units just in case the facing is getting thin.
 
turbinator62 said:
Do you have a Wisconsin manual? You can do a search on Google for a VH4D manual. Pitt Auto Electric has a free PDF download. I also have a copy of the original Thiokol manual I can email
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I have not sunk my teeth into the research side of this cat yet. I really like the cat and find its simplicity enjoyable. thank you for the direction this will be very helpful
 
redsqwrl said:
I did not. I figured it was adjustable as the machine was built before ralph nader took most of our fun away with litigation and safety concerns. I will google tribco kevlar units just in case the facing is getting thin.
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https://www.tribco.com/about.php I talked to a guy at Tribco named Gary who was very helpful. They stocked a lining that fits the Wisconsin and will put oil grooves in it if you ask. The linings are bonded to a steel backing to make them easy to install. You will have to drill, counter bore and rivet them to the clutch disk yourself.
Read this thread from Jan 2016 (page 8) on. It should give you all the information you need.
 
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