Those look like turbos on the end of the pipes. If in good condition they qualify in place of arrestors.
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1989 Tucker 1644c
- Thread starter 1boringguy
- Start date
1BG,
That sounds fantastic. No other way to put it...
That sounds fantastic. No other way to put it...
If I put the end caps in the exhuast pipes I think I can get the sprinkler heads spinning about 20 rpm. That'll still be a few orders of magnitude less than an actual turbo, but I think it'll still have that 'turbo whistle ', so maybe I can sell it as a new 'Elon Musk Design '. That's gotta be good, right?
It's all about the exhaust 😉
Pun aside though, I am happy about the way the engine has turned out. Not that a SnoCat needs all that, but like I told PP when she asked, "well how much horsepower do you really need ....", "just a little more than I'm wanting at any given moment."
1BG,
There's a great aviation saying about power that I absolutely subscribe to, and I think you'll like it as well. "A lot is good, more is better and too much... is just about right".
more power Scotty, more power!!!
Snowy Rivers
Well-known member
You will likely have enough to break stuff if you work at it.....
It's all about having enough to get the job done...plus sounding BAD AZZ....
What are the specs on the cam ???
I have been snooping around for a cam choice for my 406 SMALL BLOCK CHEVY that's going in the FrankenCat
I decided on using Vortec heads ...and these (in stock trim) are only good for about .450" lift before the spring retainers hit the valve stem seals.... (NO need to spend lotsa buckos on head mods)
The Tucker sounds great.... Actually pretty mellow
This limits cam choices a bunch
Snowy Rivers
Well-known member
Yeah....too much is fine...IF the operator knows when to get the boot off the skinny pedal...BEFORE CHIT BREAKS...
SR,
This is the cam that I used. Of course a stroker handles/needs more cam than a standard configuration, and I'm convinced that the PF4 efi helps smooth things out as well. Some reason I thought we ended up closer to .500 lift but I see that's not the case. Again, haven't had it out in the field yet, but I'm liking it so far.
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Probably everyone knows this but me, but I'll share it just in case anyone else reads this at some point who doesn't.
I can get all the engine gauge functions on the tablet Edelbrock supplied with the PF4 EFI system, or you can download the app to your phone and sync it, and then have them there. I put the tablet on the dash with a dash mount holder and have used it thus far, but l want the gauges in the cat to all function properly as well. The efi ecm does away with the need for much of the old engine control electronics, and the supplied wiring harness has a wire for 'tach'. So I wired it up to the tach, but no banana. 🤔
After a little goggle search I found this explanation for someone else who had the same problem;
So connected the wire from the old school tach to the neg post on the coil and it's back in bussiness.
I can get all the engine gauge functions on the tablet Edelbrock supplied with the PF4 EFI system, or you can download the app to your phone and sync it, and then have them there. I put the tablet on the dash with a dash mount holder and have used it thus far, but l want the gauges in the cat to all function properly as well. The efi ecm does away with the need for much of the old engine control electronics, and the supplied wiring harness has a wire for 'tach'. So I wired it up to the tach, but no banana. 🤔
After a little goggle search I found this explanation for someone else who had the same problem;
So connected the wire from the old school tach to the neg post on the coil and it's back in bussiness.
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Couple more check marks the weekend.
Alignment, like Tuckers instructions admit, sounds more complicated than it is. They say to pull measurement from the rear of the frame, but that's assuming that the frame bends, bed, or whatever, was all made square. Anyway I decided to just square up to the main frame and measure from that.
Adjusted the parking brake, but no exciting pics of that.
And added some power points, gotta keep the electronics running you know. Since the cat has a battery isolator and two batteries, I've wired so that the music, device charging, cb radio, ect, draw from the second battery, so if you sit around the camp fire playing music all night or something, the starting battery is always full charge.
Alignment, like Tuckers instructions admit, sounds more complicated than it is. They say to pull measurement from the rear of the frame, but that's assuming that the frame bends, bed, or whatever, was all made square. Anyway I decided to just square up to the main frame and measure from that.
Adjusted the parking brake, but no exciting pics of that.
And added some power points, gotta keep the electronics running you know. Since the cat has a battery isolator and two batteries, I've wired so that the music, device charging, cb radio, ect, draw from the second battery, so if you sit around the camp fire playing music all night or something, the starting battery is always full charge.
Had a minute so did a couple things on my 'interior' list.
All the panel switches are numbered and correspond to the numbered fuse panel. Wiring that plugs into each switch is also numbered and is there even if not used in my application. I had several empty/blocked switch spots, so I ordered a few switches from Tucker (originals still available) to fill the holes, instead of the blanks, and for use in the future. Probably need to add about 33 more led lights to keep up with Wbj1 😉
I called Tucker, but they didn't have a wiring diagram applicable to my machine, so I started heating a wire at the numbered switch and looking for the outcome with a test light. Some I couldn't find anything heated, and other places I still have wires that I can't determine their function, but here's what I did find.
1. Low beam head lights, tail lights, and unused wire overhead front of cab interior.
2. Unused, overhead front of cab interior, and front of hood at the frame.
3. Could not find.
4. Cargo light.
5. High beam headlights.
6. Heater blower.
7. Wipers.
8. Could not find. Someone after factory, wired this to aux blower in cab.
9. Unused, rear cab door overhead interior.
10. Overhead interior above back seat center.
11. Electric fuel pump.
12. Unused plug near backup alarm, rear of frame exterior, and front of hood on the frame.
Aux 1. Not used.
Aux 2. Not used.
Also repainted the seat frames. I swear these mechanical spring ride Bostrom seats must weigh 50 pounds each.
All the panel switches are numbered and correspond to the numbered fuse panel. Wiring that plugs into each switch is also numbered and is there even if not used in my application. I had several empty/blocked switch spots, so I ordered a few switches from Tucker (originals still available) to fill the holes, instead of the blanks, and for use in the future. Probably need to add about 33 more led lights to keep up with Wbj1 😉
I called Tucker, but they didn't have a wiring diagram applicable to my machine, so I started heating a wire at the numbered switch and looking for the outcome with a test light. Some I couldn't find anything heated, and other places I still have wires that I can't determine their function, but here's what I did find.
1. Low beam head lights, tail lights, and unused wire overhead front of cab interior.
2. Unused, overhead front of cab interior, and front of hood at the frame.
3. Could not find.
4. Cargo light.
5. High beam headlights.
6. Heater blower.
7. Wipers.
8. Could not find. Someone after factory, wired this to aux blower in cab.
9. Unused, rear cab door overhead interior.
10. Overhead interior above back seat center.
11. Electric fuel pump.
12. Unused plug near backup alarm, rear of frame exterior, and front of hood on the frame.
Aux 1. Not used.
Aux 2. Not used.
Also repainted the seat frames. I swear these mechanical spring ride Bostrom seats must weigh 50 pounds each.
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Well everyone who has looked through the SV2022 has probably already noticed that I managed to get running up and down the mountain the last couple days of the Sun Valley get together.
I still have a number of small items to finish up, but was thankful to get to test the general mechanical soundness before the end of the snow year around here. The take away from those two days is that I may want to change some springs in the trans valve body that controls the shift points, and I have a feedback through the sound system and the auxiliary battery. Not to big of issues. Anyway mostly moving forward with it, and hope to have a long season next year.
I'll post some more as I finish up some things like the exhaust, but for now just the proverbial before and after pics.
I still have a number of small items to finish up, but was thankful to get to test the general mechanical soundness before the end of the snow year around here. The take away from those two days is that I may want to change some springs in the trans valve body that controls the shift points, and I have a feedback through the sound system and the auxiliary battery. Not to big of issues. Anyway mostly moving forward with it, and hope to have a long season next year.
I'll post some more as I finish up some things like the exhaust, but for now just the proverbial before and after pics.
Jack,
You killed it! Your machine looked awesome and backed it up by performing great! You should be proud!!
Cidertom,
Green is one thing. Painted green by PP is way better!!!
You killed it! Your machine looked awesome and backed it up by performing great! You should be proud!!
Cidertom,
Green is one thing. Painted green by PP is way better!!!
Red White Blue and Army colored reunion. SV 2023!
1BG,
I agree totally with The Infamous WBJ1 (scary thought, right there). But he's right; "White Lightning" is an awesome machine and you should be very proud of what you accomplished. It looks great and performs even better. My sincere congratulations!
I agree totally with The Infamous WBJ1 (scary thought, right there). But he's right; "White Lightning" is an awesome machine and you should be very proud of what you accomplished. It looks great and performs even better. My sincere congratulations!
Thanks all for the compliments. I'm happy not to have been 'that guy' having to be towed back to the trailer.
Agree with TA, hope to see more people's projects running around on the snow next year.
Agree with TA, hope to see more people's projects running around on the snow next year.
I became a fan of lockers when I lost a track and couldn't make it up an icy slope. They don't steer when locked in at all but as you said, they are great for last option available scenarios.
Really cool pic with snow on the grousers. Snow leopard...
TalleyHo,
Snow Leopard ....... yea I like that. Although I'm sure a Snow Leopard would be highly insulted by something being likened to itself, that only goes 10mph.
I reckoned 'White Lighting' stuck because like most Burt Reynolds characters, I'm highly unpolished. 🙃
761643
New member
Finally found a post with your user name. Had some questions on the sprocket hub you built. I have the same problem with my 1976, 1643 Tucker, Serial # 3763238. My Tucker has a 5 1/8” pitch. 1- was the pitch the same on the square tooth sprocket you bought as on the pointed tooth sprocket? 2- if the pitch is greater than 5 1/8” centerline, how does that effect the alignment on the track trousers? Any info would be helpful. Thanks
Snowy Rivers
Well-known member
Just my 2 cents..
If I were doing it...I would cut off that entire plate and replace it with fresh metal.....
The old part has been flexed and tweaked a LOT over the years....Fatigue has taken its toll.
A repair could get you by for a while....But very likely the thing will break again.....
Build your new part and remove all stress risers (Sharp corners and areas that cracks can start)
On the side of the plate where the boss has the grease zirk....Is there room to add a piece of 5/8" plate that would go around the boss and lap over the flat plate ?????
That boss sitting where it does has zero support and has been flexing.
A "Doubler" plate will spread the load out over a wide area and stop things from cracking.
Skip weld the doubler plate along the edge and around the entire area......You don't need tons of weld.....just need to keep that boss from bending the plate like a paper clip.....
Machine a fresh boss OR....KEEP IT SIMPLE
As you mentioned V out the crack (Drill 5/16 hole at each end of the crack to stop propagation ) then weld up.
Cut the doubler plate.....It can be more of a triangle shape...just make the one area rounded behind the boss.
Burn a clean hole in the doubler that will just fit over the boss......Chamfer the inner edge of the doubler plate so it will sit down snug over the original weld and lay flat against the old plate
Skip weld around the periphery....DO NOT WRAP THE CORNERS....WELD THE LAST BIT AND RUN THE WELD OUT ONTO THE PLATE...
Wrapping the corners IS WHERE IT WILL CRACK.
Skip weld the edges so both pieces are attached together....do 3 skip welds on the boss where it protrudes through the doubler.
Should be fine.....Smooth all edges of the original plate especially the area where the crack was.....
Many times when parts break the issue needs to be looked at carefully to see WHY IT BROKE...
There are times that simply adding metal in one area will vector the stress and things will break somewhere else.
I do not believe that this is one of those times.....That boss has been wiggling the plate to a fro until it gave up..
The old saying in the racing world...."If it ain't moving, something's breaking" is good advice....Welded trailer frames break.....they can't flex....Hence the reason that frames are riveted, bolted or in some cases huck bolts are used....
The issue on the tucker is a simple case of no support on the boss/plate.
YOUR IDEA OF A DONUT...just take it a lot farther and spread that load out over a much wider area....
Having a little bit of movement in the bushings will allow things to Wiggle a bit....The ain't moving somethings breaking things.
Don't get extremely worried about a few thou of clearance....Room for grease ya know...
Attachments
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PM Rob directly. He may not see your question here. And this section is typically pretty quiet during the summer months.
I came across this post in search, looking for information on what torque converter was used by Tucker for the LH318 engine. The fellow (John) who is building the 727 is adamant that the torque converter is matched to the cam profile in the LH318 Industrial engine, and John is after me to figure it out.
Or maybe if anyone had the cam specs torque curve I could use that info?
John has been building up transmissions for 50 years and just retired, so I just say, yes sir!