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1972 Aktiv ST4 "Snow Trac"

DaveNay said:
Maybe it is working, and you are just generating 0 amps?! :hide:
Well that would totally honk me off if it was true, I had the generator completely rebuilt to a higher output this summer. All new wires run from the batteries to the starter too. There is also a light on the dash that glows when the battery is being discharged but is off when the battery is being charged (and I know that light works because when you turn the ignition on but don't have the engine running that light is on, and it turns off when the engine is running because I made sure to double check that last night)

But still, when I went out to restart it, it fired up, the lights were not dim, everything worked. So while it sure seemed like an electrical issue, I'm not sure what the heck it really is.
 
Bob,

If I recall, your battery isolater switch has a "neither" position.

I think something like this may be a good test to identify the problem. Other members - tweak or correct me if this won't accomplish the test.

Get your snow trac in the same condition (warmed up and stuff).
Put the battery switch in the neigher position.
It should remain running.
Leave it at an idle.
Turn on a light
If still running, turn on another light.
Keep repeating the process until everything is on or it quits.

If/when it does quit, turn everything off, re-engage the batteries and re-start the engine.

Again, set isolator to neither.

At idle, turn on the last thing that made it die (we're testing for shorts in this step). If it quit, you probably have a short.

If it didn't quit, turn stuff on until it does shut down again. You now know how many lights overwhelm the system. Adjust accordingly.
 
Be carefull in doing this "running with no battery hooked up" alot of alternators will burn out this way. Better get a volt meter and check the voltage.
 
What I do in a "it wont crank" situation is :

*this takes two people in the daylight, one to watch the head lights*

Turn on head lights, are they bright as normal. if yes attempt to crank engine, with starter cranking lights should only slightly dim, if they dim almost clear out you have a weak battery or bad battery connection. If the lights stay bright but the engine cranks slow you most likely have a bad starter(dragging) but some other things to check would be: free engine rotation, can you turn the engine by hand? If trans is in gear maybe the clutch is not completly releasing. If the starter dosen't do anything and the lights don't even flicker when you press the start button, you have a problem with your start wiring circuit ie. key switch, start button, neutral safety, starter relay. you can bypass all these components with a screwdriver at the starter but you should be sure the machine is out of gear and loose clothing is out of belts and fans. sometimes a light tap on the starter with a hammer while someone holds down the start button will do the trick, if this works replace the starter.


In your case Bob I think you had some starter trouble a while back but I cant remember what you came up with on that, but if the starter is new it sounds to me like maybe you have the ignition timing advanced way to far. The VW's I have had ran good with alot of advance but cranked hard. especially when hot or loaded up from ideling.:my2cents:
 
Thanks guys for all the advice on the starter & battery issue, looks like I have some things to test out.


But in the mean time I got my new custom shift knob in the mail today
:cool2:


I've been working with a guy named Bruce Roosa, the owner of a small custom shift and dash knob company on this little project. Bruce is able to embed objects or photos into shift knobs or dash knobs. He offers a couple different shapes & sizes and will customize them to match your paint job, interior color scheme or whatever else you can think of. I made up a simple logo graphic, he printed it out, and embedded it into a knob for me.

I chose a "flair top" shaped knob because it closely matches the stock knobs that were on the dashboard. I also liked the look of the knob versus a standard "ball" shaped shift knob. He could have done it in any color I would have chosen, or even a swirl pattern, but I felt a solid black knob would best work with my Snow Trac.

He can do these for any brand of car, truck, or snowcat. Bruce already has the Snow Trac logo that I made up, so if you have a Snow Trac and want a custom knob, he can probably make one up in very short order. For other brands, you will have to work with Bruce to send him your logo or whatever it is you'd like embedded in your shift knob. If you are interested, you can contact Bruce directly via email. koolknobs@collinscom.net

Price, including shipping is going to be roughly $36.00 price may vary slighly for some options?

Bruce has a website you might want to look at: www.koolknobs.com Many of his pieces are fancier than what I got, with swirls or things in the plastic.

I'm thinking BigAl may need to have a set made up in the "King Ranch" colors with KT7 Yetti Edition embedded in the top!
 

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All kidding aside , That is really sharp . If I had a transmission you can bet I would get one.:thumb:
 
BigAl said:
All kidding aside , That is really sharp . If I had a transmission you can bet I would get one.:thumb:
Don't you have two knobs that control your hydraulics?

I've made up a simple graphic that could be embedded into the shift control lever. This one would obviously be for the left lever. It would be easy to modify the graphic to suit your needs, alter type colors, etc.
 

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STARTING UPDATE: I just can't figure this out.

Went out and set the battery selector to Battery #1. Hit the starter button and the engine turned over and tried to start (but I forgot to pull the choke so it didn't :hide: )

Set the battery selector to Battery #2. Pulled the choke. Hit the starter button. Snow Trac fired up in about 2 seconds. Turned the battery selector to OFF and the Snow Trac continued to run without a hitch. Lights worked without dimming, but I admit that I was not running ALL the lights.

I think maybe it was just a fluke the other night???


SHIFT KNOB UPDATE: OK the photo is a really bad camera phone photo, taken in the dark with only the light from the dome light inside the Snow Trac and some minimal residual light from outside.

Still the knob fit perfectly, looks great, is almost identical to the original in size but is a different shape. It looks good in place and the photo also shows the shift pattern decal that I had made and installed on a piece of black plastic and then mounted at the base of the shift column.
 

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B_Skurka said:
Don't you have two knobs that control your hydraulics?

I've made up a simple graphic that could be embedded into the shift control lever. This one would obviously be for the left lever. It would be easy to modify the graphic to suit your needs, alter type colors, etc.

I like that alot Bob ,but the problem is my knobs are about 1" in diameter .
I could probably label one "right track" and the other one "left track" but other than that I think it would be hard to fit everything else on it . Or maybe just "forward<--->reverse" with a arrow in between .
 
B_Skurka said:
Turned the battery selector to OFF and the Snow Trac continued to run without a hitch. Lights worked without dimming, but I admit that I was not running ALL the lights.

I think maybe it was just a fluke the other night???
I would have continued and tested all the lights.

Fluke? Could be but if you were going to be 10 miles from home would you want to risk it?
 
Brian, had it not been the lovely Mrs_Bs birthday, I would have spent the time out there doing a full test. As it was, I snuck out to the shop between activities last evening and was only in the shop for about 10 minutes. Friday night I will have a couple hours to play out there because she is the sponsor for a high school dance and I don't have to be there to help.

My goals for Friday evening are to mount the Clinometer and the GPS system, as well as to play around with the lights/ignition issue. Oh, and I want to watch Firefly on HDTV.
 
It took less than an hour, and all went smoothly, the Clinometer is mounted on the top of the dash and wired so that it lights up with the ignition. I had originally thought it would be best to mount to the bottom of the dash, I actually installed it there, but it was too close to the shift knob for comfort. Without gloves on, it wouldn't be a problem, but with gloves on I think shifting up into 2nd or 4th it would have been problematic. So I repositioned it to the top of the dash, ran the wire down the wire access hole and over to the new fuse block. Connected it up and used a 5 amp fuse to protect it.

The GPS unit fits, but just barely. It really would be better if I had a horizontal screen GPS instead of a vertical unit, but I really didn't see the need to buy a new unit when it really is not a needed feature. The mount is designed to tip the unit back and to allow it to rotate, but there really is not enough room on top of the dash for a mount that will allow it. The GPS runs off either battery or plugs into the 12-volt outlet so I've got dual power options. Its not a bad unit, but not as good as the more modern units on the market.

I also worked a bit more on the ghost starter issue. The problem was it fired up and ran flawlessly no matter what I tried. With or without the batteries turned "on" and with or without a variety of lights. And it is about 15 degrees colder tonight than it was the day I had the problem so I just can't figure out why it is working perfectly but I'm not complaining!
 

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We don't have much snow but we have enough to go out. So I went out for a night drive, just about 5 or 6 miles round trip to check out the Clinometer and the GPS and play around more with the lights, check for the ghost problem with the starter, etc.

I did find out that you want to pay attention to where you are driving rather than mess around with a camera on a steep hill while trying to go down a slope between trees :o I sort of smacked the right side mirror a little bit with a tree branch but managed to make it down without any other incident other than dropping the camera and taking part of another branch off the tree and down the hill. I was just trying to take a photo of the Clinometer maxed out on its scale (it goes to 30 degrees) but didn't manage to get the photo. :( On the other hand, if you have a Clinometer, make sure it is a lighted one, most of the models I looked at were not lighted and I'm glad I found one that had lights.

The Clinometer works well, I didn't play on any side slopes, but I figured out first hand that the vertical climb & decent scale is not sufficient for the Snow Trac. The Snow Trac can easily manage hills steeper than the Clinometer can measure. I went up and down the same slope without any effort with the Snow Trac (my tractors have a heck of a time climbing that slope and feel very unstable).

I also went out along a river that runs behind the property and onto an adjacent farm just because I wanted to keep running along the river. Even in the darkness it was still a pretty drive.

Despite the 10 degree F temps, I had no problems with the starter using only 1 battery. I had no operating problems with the lights on, no electrical problems. So my ghost is still in hiding.
 

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Ok!
I am jealous!

I am "So Ready" to start enjoying my snowcat like that . I think maybe I should have got a lighted tilt meter like yours . It glows very well .

Have fun Bob !:applause:
 
Very nice, Bob!! Good to see you out playing. Out here in CA we haven't had any snow for about a month. Going down as the driest January on RECORD... :letitsnow:

You mentioned that your GPS was kinda too tall. Have you considered replacing the mount with a RAM version? I use them in my Jeep and snowmobile and plan on adding one to my cat, too. They are very adjustable and stable. Lots of places to get them and they have custom mounts for each GPS. I also use the same ball mount with a different adapter to mount my video camera on some Jeep runs. Sounds like you might want to add a camera mount somewhere to get action shots with out taking out anymore trees....:yum: :yum:

Keep the pics coming,

Vance
 
BigAl said:
I think maybe I should have got a lighted tilt meter like yours . It glows very well .
As I often spend more time in the Snow Trac at night, I realized how important lights are for my use. But the interior is just plain old dark! On thing my VW Touareg has that is very nice is some low intensity red light that shine down on the dash area. I really wish I had that in the Snow Trac to illuminate the dash. I have to rely on "feel" to select the correct knob or switch. As you are not quite done, you may want to consider installing BACK LIT name plates on your KT7?

Vance said:
You mentioned that your GPS was kinda too tall. Have you considered replacing the mount with a RAM version? . . . Sounds like you might want to add a camera mount somewhere to get action shots with out taking out anymore trees....:yum: :yum:
What is a RAM mount?
The mounting base I have can be mounted at most any angle, including mounting it on the windshield with double stick tape. But the problem I have is that there is not a lot of room there to tilt the display back so it is almost straight vertical. It is pretty easy to read, but would be easier if I could tilt it back a few more degrees. I think one of the more modern horizontal screen units would fit a lot nicer.

As for the trees, I had my choice of smacking my wife's 400# concrete planter or taking out a couple branches. I'm pretty sure I made the right choice!:o
 
B_Skurka said:
What is a RAM mount?
Probably the best and most versatile mounting system there is.
www.ram-mount.com

They have mounts for most anything. Their stuff is used in planes, boats, off-road vehicles, ATV's... Heck, my neighbor has them on his tractor.

Depending on what you're looking for (as they don't carry everything), it's been awhile but the best pricing I've found was at www.walleyesinc.com
 
B_Skurka said:
As you are not quite done, you may want to consider installing BACK LIT name plates on your KT7?

Bob ,
It is a little late to add back lighting now .

This "good information" should have been sent to me during the R&D phase of the "KT7 rebuild project" !!!:pat: Where were you :confused2: :confused2: . I sent a note to all department heads about this . You must have been out playing in your Snot Track that day :( .

All my rocker switches are lighted to identify which ones are on . But I will keep that in mind when I rebuild the KT4 and the KT3.

Sincerely ,
A.C. Hutson
"Grand Poobaa and Chief Bottle Washer"
The KristiCat Rebuild Company
Elk City , Id.

:blahblah:
:blahblah:
:blahblah:
 
PBinWA said:
Bob - get some kick ass Night Vision goggles so you can drive around in the dark! :a1:

Damn !!! Where were you when I was building my R & D team for my KT7 rebuild . Ecellent idea .

Ok... Bob is now off the KristiCat rebuild team and your on .. You start tomorrow . Bring beer money .
 
bczoom said:
Probably the best and most versatile mounting system there is.
www.ram-mount.com
OK well I looked at the Ram Mount.

First disadvantage I see is a biggie. My Magellan mount has a place in the back to connect up the 12-volt cord. I don't see that in the Ram Mount. That means I'd be stuck powering the GPS via "AA" batteries, and when it is in battery mode the screen turns off to save power. I want the screen on all the time, therefore I need the 12-volt cord connected. If the ram mount accomodates the 12 volt connection, I can't tell from the website.

Second problem I see is that the Ram Mount might be a little better than what I already have, but not much better. And for the cost of the Ram Mount, it just doesn't seem worth it (for my application, especially given the fact that I already have a useable, but not perfect mount). If I did not already have a mounting bracket, I would buy the Ram Mount in a heartbeat.

In fact I may buy one to hold the cellphone and the FRS radio.

Still unclear what to do about a CB radio. I don't have one of those but it seems like it might come in handy someday and am considering adding one (but only if I can find one with a lighted/backlighted face) at a good price, probably need an external speaker too.
 
B_Skurka said:
First disadvantage I see is a biggie. My Magellan mount has a place in the back to connect up the 12-volt cord. I don't see that in the Ram Mount.
I don't have a GPS so I honestly don't know but I'd be very surprised if it didn't accommodate the 12v cord.

B_Skurka said:
Still unclear what to do about a CB radio. I don't have one of those but it seems like it might come in handy someday and am considering adding one (but only if I can find one with a lighted/backlighted face) at a good price, probably need an external speaker too.
Hmmm. I don't know of any with a full backlit face. Normally, just the meters are illuminated.
 
Is this what you are looking for??
 

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mbsieg said:
Is this what you are looking for??
Yup, if I add one, then it will be one like that. I saw them at Radio Shack a while back. And given my recent night drives, it would be totally mandatory for me to have a full backlit or fully illuminated face so that I could use it. But I think I would opt for a more basic model.


Here is a Cobra 20XTR on ebay. These are commonly under $70.00
  • This Cobra CB retails for $140.00!
  • Cobra's 20XTR Xtreme Street 40 Channel Communicator comes with an illuminated transceiver and when transmitting the antenna illuminates!
  • Features:
    • Neon Illuminated Communicator
    • Neon Illuminated Front Panel Dual Watch
    • Illuminated LCD Display for night time viewing
    • Neon Illuminated Antenna
    • Public Address function when transmitting
    • 40 Channels (26.965 to 27.405 MHz) for interference free communication
    • Squelch Control eliminates background noise in the absence of a signal
    • Power/Volume Control Turns unit on/adjust incoming audio
    • Frequency Control: Phase Lock Loop Synthesizer
    • RF Output Power: 4W
    • Microphone Type: 4 Pin Screw-On Dynamic
    • Maximum Power Allowed
    • CB/PA switch
    • No Service Fees
    • Remote Mount Installation Easily installed in dash or under dash
    • Dimension (W x H x D): 4 1/2" x 1 3/4" x 6 1/2"
    • Antenna length 11"
    • 1 Year Warranty
 

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B_Skurka said:
Yup, if I add one, then it will be one like that. I saw them at Radio Shack a while back. And given my recent night drives, it would be totally mandatory for me to have a full backlit or fully illuminated face so that I could use it. But I think I would opt for a more basic model.
Bob,

I believe I have that same one (Cobra 29 LTD WX) but mines older so it doesn't have the lights.
It's not bad at night. The only button you really need to touch is the one on the far left which is power/volume. The rest are relative stagnant once set.

A basic model will 3 knobs. power/volume, squelch and channel. These are very easy at night without back-lighting (but won't look as cool...).
 
Just out for a Sunday afternoon drive :blahblah:

These photos are taken along the river (West Creek) that runs behind my home.

The drive was pleasant enough, but sunshine would have made it a little better. Probably did a 10 mile loop, or close to 10 miles. Didn't see any deer today.
 

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Too bad it is an overcast day! These two are also along the river.
 

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Our 6" of snow is down to just enough to cover the short grass, but we are due for several more inches over the next couple of days :cool2:

These photos were taken about 2 miles south of the prior photos, not too far off the river, in an area that is great for deer and bird hunting. In the summer the grass gets up to 5 or 6 feet tall and gives the animals great cover, but there are some hills and trees to hide deer stands.
 

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B_Skurka said:
Antenna length 11"

If I remember right from my days of messing around with CB's in High School, you will want to ditch that little rubebr duck antenna, and put a 102" whip on there instead.

A couple of 60" fiberglass firestiks would look nice too (they are red and black).
 
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