Track Addict
Bronze Member
Well within Tucker Tolerance for this preservation.
I pray my crank bearings look this good at 72 years
-
Please be sure to read the rules and adhere to them. Some banned members have complained that they are not spammers. But they spammed us. Some even tried to redirect our members to other forums. Duh. Be smart. Read the rules and adhere to them and we will all get along just fine. Cheers. :beer: Link to the rules: https://www.forumsforums.com/threads/forum-rules-info.2974/
1953 Tucker Sno Cat 443 Mt Washington WMTW Channel 8 Restoration
- Thread starter Track Addict
- Start date
I pray my crank bearings look this good at 72 years
Track Addict
Bronze Member
Can’t find a crank pulley install tool so we will fabricate one out of another hand crank nut.
Will cut the crank jaw off and weld on the threaded rod. This will allow proper draw and alignment.
Will cut the crank jaw off and weld on the threaded rod. This will allow proper draw and alignment.
Track Addict
Bronze Member
Had some youth support making progress today. Jovan got a lesson in torque wrench operation and math.
Timing cover plate/engine mount back on regasketed and torqued. Will have to remove and thread seal a number of the fasteners when the timing cover goes on.
Valves all adjusted set to .014” for initial firing. Lapping the valves tightened up the spec here.
New intake/exhaust studs installed. Most of these are in the water jacket so Permatex high temp thread sealant was used. 3/4 a turn is all you need which is plenty of sealant.
For stud install, I like to jam two nuts then tighten until the nuts start to slip on the stud for torque spec.
Fabricated the crank pulley installation tool out of hand crank not cutting of the jaw and welding in a rod.
Timing cover plate/engine mount back on regasketed and torqued. Will have to remove and thread seal a number of the fasteners when the timing cover goes on.
Valves all adjusted set to .014” for initial firing. Lapping the valves tightened up the spec here.
New intake/exhaust studs installed. Most of these are in the water jacket so Permatex high temp thread sealant was used. 3/4 a turn is all you need which is plenty of sealant.
For stud install, I like to jam two nuts then tighten until the nuts start to slip on the stud for torque spec.
Fabricated the crank pulley installation tool out of hand crank not cutting of the jaw and welding in a rod.
Track Addict
Bronze Member
Hand filed the key, key ways, and crank hub to clean up the burrs for a smooth install while waiting on parts and pieces.
Getting ready to pivot back to finish the frame once the regasketing of the motor is complete.
Template for the missing door using high strength thick wall 14 gauge square tube like
Tucker!
Getting ready to pivot back to finish the frame once the regasketing of the motor is complete.
Template for the missing door using high strength thick wall 14 gauge square tube like
Tucker!
Last edited:
Track Addict
Bronze Member
Coated the new timing chain and gears with assembly lube for start up.
Speedy sleeve installed in the crank hub and installed on the crank. Permatex black for extra leak guard.
Manual refers to a seal alignment tool to tighten the timing cover on first. Here I left the timing cover loose while installing and let the hub center when I tighten the bolts.
Installation tool a must to draw on. Do not pound it on.
Timing cover torqued to 15 ft/lbs. Used thread sealant for most of these are in the water jacket.
Crank nut torqued to 135 ft/lbs.
Installed the two studs for the engine lifting bracket which need the long accessory studs for not the shorter head studs.
Speedy sleeve installed in the crank hub and installed on the crank. Permatex black for extra leak guard.
Manual refers to a seal alignment tool to tighten the timing cover on first. Here I left the timing cover loose while installing and let the hub center when I tighten the bolts.
Installation tool a must to draw on. Do not pound it on.
Timing cover torqued to 15 ft/lbs. Used thread sealant for most of these are in the water jacket.
Crank nut torqued to 135 ft/lbs.
Installed the two studs for the engine lifting bracket which need the long accessory studs for not the shorter head studs.
Track Addict
Bronze Member
Sourced an oil pan for a 251 and found a nice Rustoleum Silver Aluminum engine paint that blends in nicely pictured here on the OE Pan.
So I painted the new one only to find many 251 variations and this one doesn’t fit.
Considered repairing the OE pan for the patina but it has lots of dents and puncture damage. Copper braise and JB weld dressing. Good news is I sourced another nice pan. Marty deserves better.
Head cleaned up and flushed the internals for final install.
So I painted the new one only to find many 251 variations and this one doesn’t fit.
Considered repairing the OE pan for the patina but it has lots of dents and puncture damage. Copper braise and JB weld dressing. Good news is I sourced another nice pan. Marty deserves better.
Head cleaned up and flushed the internals for final install.
Track Addict
Bronze Member
New head hardware. Brake cleaner, paper towels, and a brush makes fairly quick work of the cosmoline.
Midwest Military and Vintage Power Wagons collectively had the hardware.
The Industrial motors had a buffet of mopar hardware unlike on automotive flathead variants which would usually be all studs or all bolts.
This Industrial 251 has a tapped headbolt perimeter to support mounting accessories, two accessory studs for engine lifting hook, and the rest traditional head bolts center.
Marty also features an aftermarket headbolt engine warmer stud which would have been added after production from Chrysler.
Ready for install.
Midwest Military and Vintage Power Wagons collectively had the hardware.
The Industrial motors had a buffet of mopar hardware unlike on automotive flathead variants which would usually be all studs or all bolts.
This Industrial 251 has a tapped headbolt perimeter to support mounting accessories, two accessory studs for engine lifting hook, and the rest traditional head bolts center.
Marty also features an aftermarket headbolt engine warmer stud which would have been added after production from Chrysler.
Ready for install.
Track Addict
Bronze Member
Installed the head this evening. Gasket coated in Permatex Copper Sealant which is recommended. Used a temp stud up front to get the head aligned when dropped on.
Many of the available gaskets are for a “hump head” which has an additional cooling port. This engine does not but the gasket works fine on the non hump heads.
Torqued in 4 steps following the pattern to 70 ft/lb then confirmed the final torque. Manual calls for a final torque when hot so added a reminder.
Tapped head bolts carry the hydraulic tank on this vintage.
Many of the available gaskets are for a “hump head” which has an additional cooling port. This engine does not but the gasket works fine on the non hump heads.
Torqued in 4 steps following the pattern to 70 ft/lb then confirmed the final torque. Manual calls for a final torque when hot so added a reminder.
Tapped head bolts carry the hydraulic tank on this vintage.
Track Addict
Bronze Member
Oil pan I sourced is in excellent shape with a nice finish as is. While not OE to the machine paint is correct for Mopar flathead period prior to the Tucker tolerance overspray finish.
Compliments Marty’s storyline as a talking point as to the finish variations.
Material arrived to fab up the missing door #3 enhancement….
Compliments Marty’s storyline as a talking point as to the finish variations.
Material arrived to fab up the missing door #3 enhancement….
Track Addict
Bronze Member
Oil pan install went smooth. The way the gaskets lay on seems odd but that is the way with the sides proud and the sides on top. Doesn’t seem right but once the pan is layed on it all makes sense.
I little 3M 77 spray on just the pan side to hold the sides in place and Black RTV in the known leak areas at gasket mating locations before install. The end bolts on both sides need a little finesse when installing but went smooth.
Manual doesn’t spec a torque pattern so slow and even working around inside out by hand then 15 ft/lbs torque.
OE drain plug swapped out to upgraded magnetic and oring plug torqued 35 ft/lbs.
Panned out real nice on the patina finish!
Friend also hooked Marty up with some arch support.
I little 3M 77 spray on just the pan side to hold the sides in place and Black RTV in the known leak areas at gasket mating locations before install. The end bolts on both sides need a little finesse when installing but went smooth.
Manual doesn’t spec a torque pattern so slow and even working around inside out by hand then 15 ft/lbs torque.
OE drain plug swapped out to upgraded magnetic and oring plug torqued 35 ft/lbs.
Panned out real nice on the patina finish!
Friend also hooked Marty up with some arch support.
Attachments
Last edited:
Thought the same thing when resealing my oil pan. Thought I had the wrong gasket set for a bit, but after some research and install no issues. The previous person doing the install must have thought the same, and then trimmed it. After it started leaking, the solution was a tube of silicone.
Attachments
Last edited:
Don Coyote
Active member
The intake ports are "Siamese"..... the intake valves alternate positions (per cylinder) so they are close together so they can share a port.
The exhaust valves all get their own port, to reduce the threat of back pressure.
Track Addict
Bronze Member
Attempted a water pump rebuild which was pretty crusty and expected the outcome to be sourcing a new pump which proved true.
Last edited:
Track Addict
Bronze Member
Mock up of the rear door starts with the missing hinges.
Sourced drill bushings to get the length/od/id right and will fab up brackets to match then weld in place pinned for alignment.
Sourced drill bushings to get the length/od/id right and will fab up brackets to match then weld in place pinned for alignment.
Track Addict
Bronze Member
Hinge fabrication tack up and hinge side curved frame tack up went smooth.
This sets the base for the door alignment all within Tucker tolerance!
This sets the base for the door alignment all within Tucker tolerance!
Track Addict
Bronze Member
Happy to report Marty is back to a proper 443 with the door frame tack up complete! Used pictures and other Tuckers of the period to figure out the frame.
Mt Washington motivation this weekend pushing the project along…..
Mt Washington motivation this weekend pushing the project along…..
Track Addict
Bronze Member
Using the front doors as a template, i’m assuming the rear was the same. This pic is the 58 Kitten but the 53 doors in storage are the same.
Will need to mill a hole for the handle square stock but looks to be within Tucker Tollerance.
Will need to mill a hole for the handle square stock but looks to be within Tucker Tollerance.
Track Addict
Bronze Member
Marty’s motor continues to look great again!
Water Distribution tube looks better than expected and came right out with the tool. Will be replaced after block flushing. 25” block is difference than the 23”. Canadian built, Desoto, Plymouth 25” is the model to search.
New drain petcock and an upgrade/deviation from the OE Heater circuit straight nipples to shut offs. This will be useful upon assembly and for future service life.
Water Distribution tube looks better than expected and came right out with the tool. Will be replaced after block flushing. 25” block is difference than the 23”. Canadian built, Desoto, Plymouth 25” is the model to search.
New drain petcock and an upgrade/deviation from the OE Heater circuit straight nipples to shut offs. This will be useful upon assembly and for future service life.
Track Addict
Bronze Member
Flushed out the engine block using hot water and multiple angles to get the sediment out.
Marty had no thermostat up disassembly. Cleaned up the filler next crust to reinstall.
Coolant system should be buttoned up this weekend.
Marty had no thermostat up disassembly. Cleaned up the filler next crust to reinstall.
Coolant system should be buttoned up this weekend.
Track Addict
Bronze Member
Was able to reuse the water distribution tube!
Either this has been replaced or Marty has the fountain of youth. My hunch is a correlation between quality antifreeze vs water in. the dirty south. Replacement options are either a dissimilar metal or thin gauge. Some lucky folks might find a bronze tube in their 251.
Cleaned this one up and reinstalled.
Water outlet, thermostat, gasket installed and torqued to 30 ft/lbs.
After the slant oil pump experience, sourced a new replacement pump from Andy Bernbaum experts which looks to be a melling. Temp installed but needs to be indexed and primed prior to firing.
Either this has been replaced or Marty has the fountain of youth. My hunch is a correlation between quality antifreeze vs water in. the dirty south. Replacement options are either a dissimilar metal or thin gauge. Some lucky folks might find a bronze tube in their 251.
Cleaned this one up and reinstalled.
Water outlet, thermostat, gasket installed and torqued to 30 ft/lbs.
After the slant oil pump experience, sourced a new replacement pump from Andy Bernbaum experts which looks to be a melling. Temp installed but needs to be indexed and primed prior to firing.
great glam shots
Track Addict
Bronze Member
Coolant system complete. Found a correct rebuilt pump to keep it OE.
A better setup would have been to use a pump designed for a heater circuit. There is a nice clean cast bypass elbow and fitting to thread in for the return line.
An industrial motor running a pump, generator, combine etc wouldn’t need this feature so different pump. Tucker solution was a T cut in the lower radiator hose which works.
Make sure to use gasket sealer on the water pump cover both sides and the block to pump both sides. Known leak point. 15 ft/lbs on the cover bolts, 30 ft/lbs on the pump to block bolts.
Marty was rocking crude alternator conversion when I got it. I fixed the brackets earlier in life which is the spacer you see.
Should have a generator but it’s part of the story now and really a better fit for how this Tucker will be enjoying the Golden Age retirement
Replaced the oil pressure relief spring . These get weak over time. This kit contained both sizes that could have been used. Plunger is good to go!
A better setup would have been to use a pump designed for a heater circuit. There is a nice clean cast bypass elbow and fitting to thread in for the return line.
An industrial motor running a pump, generator, combine etc wouldn’t need this feature so different pump. Tucker solution was a T cut in the lower radiator hose which works.
Make sure to use gasket sealer on the water pump cover both sides and the block to pump both sides. Known leak point. 15 ft/lbs on the cover bolts, 30 ft/lbs on the pump to block bolts.
Marty was rocking crude alternator conversion when I got it. I fixed the brackets earlier in life which is the spacer you see.
Should have a generator but it’s part of the story now and really a better fit for how this Tucker will be enjoying the Golden Age retirement
Replaced the oil pressure relief spring . These get weak over time. This kit contained both sizes that could have been used. Plunger is good to go!
Track Addict
Bronze Member
Marty’s Chrysler Flathead has a full flow oil filter setup. My understanding is 251 and 265 blocks could accommodate the 2 bolt design but not many passenger vehicles had them. Later hemi’s had a similar but 4 bolt design.
The oil ports use a flat oring design I chased back to Mopar #1138119 NOS still available from Andy Bernbaum and others.
The surfaces seal with a gasket that is a mystery so using thin 1/32 Felpro oil/gas material we fabricate our own.
The oil ports use a flat oring design I chased back to Mopar #1138119 NOS still available from Andy Bernbaum and others.
The surfaces seal with a gasket that is a mystery so using thin 1/32 Felpro oil/gas material we fabricate our own.