Deadly Sushi
The One, The Only, Sushi
Anyone hear about or use something called Seafoam? People seem to dump this stuff in their fuel tank, crank case and other places to blow out carbon deposits. Sounds fishy to me.
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Seafoam for cars
- Thread starter Deadly Sushi
- Start date
Galvatron
Spock and Galvatron < one and the same
I use a product we have here in the UK called REDEX.....cost is about $30
Of course a good engine flush and good quality oil will help too.
Description
Redex Advanced Petrol Fuel System Cleaner is formulated to help improve the miles per gallon of petrol engines due to fouled injectors, inlet valves, carburettors and fuel lines. It's concentrated formula acts to keep clean and protect the fuel system
Of course a good engine flush and good quality oil will help too.
Description
Redex Advanced Petrol Fuel System Cleaner is formulated to help improve the miles per gallon of petrol engines due to fouled injectors, inlet valves, carburettors and fuel lines. It's concentrated formula acts to keep clean and protect the fuel system
Attachments
I have read the same info on multiple forums, but have never experienced that myself. I've now put synthetic in old boat motors and my old truck motor and never have I had a leak afterwards. I noticed, on the boat in particular, a lower operating temperature with all other things staying equal. An average of 5 degrees cooler. It's all good from my experience.
Deadly Sushi
The One, The Only, Sushi
Well then this Seafoam crap would o the same thing then I would imagine.
I dont know.... Maybe its good in the fuel tank?
Trakternut
Active member
Seafoam is a fuel system cleaner which works. I acquired a Wisconsin single-cylinder engine a couple of years back. The gent who gave it to me said the carburator would overflow if the valve on the gas tank was left on when the engine was stopped. It did. I put three ounces of Seafoam in the tank and filled it with gas. After running the engine for about forty-five minutes, I shut if off, but left the gas tank valve on. Nary once did the carb overflow!
Tell ya what, Sushi, of you wanna clean your crank case out, just get yourself five quarts of Shell Rotella 15W-40, which is diesel engine oil. It has very high detergent content because of the extra particles which diesel engines put into the oil. You won't believe how black the oil gets in a short time, which means it's "scrubbing" the insides of your engine out. Run a couple of changes through, then go back to your regular oil. I run a change of Rotella through my pickup once a year just to keep things tidied up.
Tell ya what, Sushi, of you wanna clean your crank case out, just get yourself five quarts of Shell Rotella 15W-40, which is diesel engine oil. It has very high detergent content because of the extra particles which diesel engines put into the oil. You won't believe how black the oil gets in a short time, which means it's "scrubbing" the insides of your engine out. Run a couple of changes through, then go back to your regular oil. I run a change of Rotella through my pickup once a year just to keep things tidied up.
Dargo
Like a bad penny...
I have my own personal opinion on many things mechanical based on my own 30 years plus experience of working on them. I couldn't begin to count the number of carbs I've taken apart and rebuilt because of buildup, sticking needle valves, sticking butterflies, sticking floats etc., etc. I've found that it is even less fun to remove fuel injectors to clean them or, in the case of a diesel, remove and rebuild a injection pump.
Because of this I've tried dozens and dozens of different oddball remedies as well as off the shelf "fixes". I have to say that Seafoam has proved to me that it is one of the better fuel system cleaners I've ever used (that doesn't damage other fuel system components). My only suggestion is that you actually need to run the Seafoam through two consecutive tanks of fuel to get a decent cleaning of your injectors and/or carb. After taking things apart, it looks like one tank full gets stuff loosened up but not all flushed out but two consecutive tanks full does a decent job. I'll pass on listing the dozens of others that do NOT work at all.
Heck, if you have a vehicle with a carburetor I have a very cheap method of clearing out carbon in a big hurry. Take the air cleaner off and get a friend to operate the throttle if you can't reach the linkage from under the hood (generally I operate the throttle myself from under the hood) and get you two Dixie cups of water; yup, water. Fire up the car and, after it's up to temperature, slowly pour the water into the carb. As it starts to die, hammer the throttle to keep it running. By the time you've slowly (if you go fast you'll blow a hole in the top of a piston or bend a rod) poured both Dixie cups of water through the system 90% or more of all carbon will be gone.
P.S. That method is generally not listed in any repair manual.
Because of this I've tried dozens and dozens of different oddball remedies as well as off the shelf "fixes". I have to say that Seafoam has proved to me that it is one of the better fuel system cleaners I've ever used (that doesn't damage other fuel system components). My only suggestion is that you actually need to run the Seafoam through two consecutive tanks of fuel to get a decent cleaning of your injectors and/or carb. After taking things apart, it looks like one tank full gets stuff loosened up but not all flushed out but two consecutive tanks full does a decent job. I'll pass on listing the dozens of others that do NOT work at all.
Heck, if you have a vehicle with a carburetor I have a very cheap method of clearing out carbon in a big hurry. Take the air cleaner off and get a friend to operate the throttle if you can't reach the linkage from under the hood (generally I operate the throttle myself from under the hood) and get you two Dixie cups of water; yup, water. Fire up the car and, after it's up to temperature, slowly pour the water into the carb. As it starts to die, hammer the throttle to keep it running. By the time you've slowly (if you go fast you'll blow a hole in the top of a piston or bend a rod) poured both Dixie cups of water through the system 90% or more of all carbon will be gone.
P.S. That method is generally not listed in any repair manual.
To start, you can count the 2 engines you got from me...
Many years ago, I worked for a company that installed "water injection" systems into carbs. It helped clean the engine and also reduced fuel consumption and increased power. I'm surprised it never caught on.Heck, if you have a vehicle with a carburetor I have a very cheap method of clearing out carbon in a big hurry. Take the air cleaner off and get a friend to operate the throttle if you can't reach the linkage from under the hood (generally I operate the throttle myself from under the hood) and get you two Dixie cups of water; yup, water. Fire up the car and, after it's up to temperature, slowly pour the water into the carb. As it starts to die, hammer the throttle to keep it running. By the time you've slowly (if you go fast you'll blow a hole in the top of a piston or bend a rod) poured both Dixie cups of water through the system 90% or more of all carbon will be gone.
P.S. That method is generally not listed in any repair manual.
The only thing I would consider changing in Brent's process is to use a small hand sprayer instead of Dixie cups. The small 1 quart ones with a trigger to spray, like a Windex bottle. Put your water in there and set it to mist and spray it in that way. Already being a mist when you put it in, it mixes better with the fuel and the engine is less apt to quit so you don't need to rev it as much.