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Kristi KT3 #113 Part III???

I have some High denisty poly ethylene sprockets on a snow trac it is amazing stuff. they are showing there age but i intend to drive till they fail 100%. A local machine shop built some grousers out of a poly product not sure the type of hdpe but I may be able to inquire. I will post a photo if I find the sample he gave me.
Get better.
 
don't let dr rum fool you he is using hdpe like he did on his kt-7 pushmepullya krusty than he will slap some steel cleats on them so they don't slip around on the ice so bad
 
Ha, Ha! Since I'm new here I really don't know how long Big Al's project has taken but he sure seems to be a good sport.:biggrin:
 
I have some High denisty poly ethylene sprockets on a snow trac it is amazing stuff. they are showing there age but i intend to drive till they fail 100%. A local machine shop built some grousers out of a poly product not sure the type of hdpe but I may be able to inquire. I will post a photo if I find the sample he gave me.
Get better.
I would like to see that snow trac grouser. Maybe it would match up with the sprockets.
 
he is using hdpe like he did on his kt-7 pushmepullya krusty than he will slap some steel cleats on them so they don't slip around on the ice so bad

The steel covers on my HDPE cleats give extra traction extend the life of the track system . Yes this is the same HDPE that I have on my KT7 with no complaints .
 
I would like to see that snow trac grouser. Maybe it would match up with the sprockets.


The HDPE Grouser were for a tucker with 28" wide tracks.

I will get a photo posted incase there is interest. there are 200 some of them in a tote in their warehouse.

They are black HDPE.

Mike
 
when I was shopping for my snow trac I looked at this one.
DSC03358.jpg
 
Words of WISDOM !!! Never drink and install a throw out bearing at the same time :sad::doh:.

I pulled the motor and found out why the throw out bearing was not engaging . It was laying in pieces in the bottom of the bell housing ... I have no idea what happened but you can tell it got really hot ! Maybe I had my "how to book" upside down when I was reading it and getting ready to install the bearing ????:unsure:

Everything else appears to be fine .But What the hell do i know . I thought the old bearing was fine too . It was brand new :sad:. Having another one picked up today .

The motor came out fast . We had it out in about 45 minutes .:smile:

PS: I love my new exhaust system!! It all came out in one piece on each side . I even left the chrome side pipes installed !
 
UPDATE :
Well, I pulled the motor back out of the KT3 as the throw out bearing blew apart . I am having a local guy help me reinstall the motor maybe next week .
I actually moved a few parts around the other day .
With the weather turning so quickly it has got my attention again .
The KT7 is being moved next week . The wife wants her garage back .
I was letting her store stuff inside the cab but if I am getting throw out of the garage she can just KMA !!!:biggrin: So the KT7 and the KT3 will be sitting side by side in the big shop . Its ok ....... its heated too ...:biggrin:
 
BREAKING NEWS !!!!!!!

The KT3 has the engine reinstalled with a new throw out bearing . I found the problem on the old one . The bracket was out of shape and the retaining clip would not fit correctly .
A little heat with a torch and a few light taps with a hammer solved the problem .


I love the side pipes I built for it . They sound great and are all one piece . No more fumes in the cab !!!!
I finally have the Transmission linkage adjusted ........I think :unsure: . LOL


Tomorrow I plan to tidy up a few wires in the engine compartment , adjust the clutch linkage and put the air cleaner back in place .

Then its time to start track rebuilding .I will use the old wire feed welder on the guides where needed , Dado the HDPE Cleats to accept the 1 1/4 steel channel wear bars . Paint the old guides and start putting it all back together . That will take some time .
I hope to be done in a few weeks so I can do some testing of the new motor . I'll leave off the top half of the cab until I get it running as I want .

Once that is done it time to redesign the cab layout for easy entry for old guys .
I am working on a sliding cab design much like a P51 Mustang or going with a clamshell design like the modern fighter jets have .

Without a doubt the redesign of the exhaust system is the best thing I have done so far . It is far superior to the old original "straight out the top" design that Kristi made on the KT2's and KT3's . NO more rain water dumping straight down into the engine heads and ruining the motor as has happen on most of the Kristi's that are still around .
 

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that is a pretty motor I think mine looks better my tin is painted Chrysler blue with a grey sealer on all the magnesium parts and stainless push rod tubes
 
that is a pretty motor I think mine looks better my tin is painted Chrysler blue with a grey sealer on all the magnesium parts and stainless push rod tubes

Beauty is only skin deep . In a Snot Trac ugly goes all the way to the Frame !:clap:

Besides , Its all the "super secret" stuff that is inside the KT3 motor that puts a frown on Snot Trac owners .

That's ok.... Someone has to be #2 ..........
 
Track Rebuild :

After cutting off the old tracks ( If they need replacement ) it is time to fix all the cracked guides and replace with new belting .
I used a 4" grinder with a metal cutting blade to remove the bolts holding the belts in place . This is a dirty job . Get eye protection and wear a mask .
The KT2's & KT3s came with a wooden Hickory track with a piece of steel flat bar bolted on top to act as a wear bar , protecting the wood . Unlesss you really want to keep the old Kristi original , I would suggest replacing the wood with HDPE plastic in a 1 1/2"x 1 1/2" size . You can buy it online and it comes in 8" lengths . It cuts and drills just like wood and wears very well . I made a 1 1/4" steel channel wear bar that really locks in nice on the Plastic cleat . My KT7 is done this way .
There will be some damage to your guides . This is where the wire feed welder will work great . Weld any and all cracks .

Replace any missing spocket wear tubes that are missing . I know what you are thinking . " Where do I get Stainless steel tubing to make the wear tubes???"
From a Muffler shop !!!! They probably have scraps and will give you some pieces . I just cut them to length and then slice them open on one side with my 4" grinder . I use a rubber mallet and piece of pipe the same size as the wear tubes to hammer it down to the right diameter . Then cut the access off the tube and weld it in place where the old missing one was .

The KT3 will have 21- 4 hole and 21- 6 hole steel guides on each side . Take your time and clean them good , and a coat of good paint and they will look like new .

Once you have acquired new belting and it is punched then start the fun job of assembly . The bolts you are using will be 5/16"x 3" shoulder bolts .
Some folks like to use Stainless steel bolts for this but the factory used standard steel ones. You will use 210 bolts per side with nuts .
When I finish each side , I hardface the nut for better wear and to lock the bolt to the nut .
Plan on spending about $1000 bucks for belting if you buy it new . Mine came from Capitol Rubber in California .

I spent the day prepping the guides and getting stuff ready to paint before track reassembly . I'll grab a camera and take some pictures of the process so fellow KT3 owners will have a source to guide them through the process .


Its DR. Rum time , gentlemen :biggrin:
 
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Track Rebuild :

After cutting off the old tracks ( If they need replacement ) it is time to fix all the cracked guides and replace with new belting .
I used a 4" grinder with a metal cutting blade to remove the bolts holding the belts in place . This is a dirty job . Get eye protection and wear a mask .
The KT2's & KT3s came with a wooden Hickory track with a piece of steel flat bar bolted on top to act as a wear bar , protecting the wood . Unlesss you really want to keep the old Kristi original , I would suggest replacing the wood with HDPE plastic in a 1 1/2"x 1 1/2" size . You can buy it online and it comes in 8" lengths . It cuts and drills just like wood and wears very well . I made a 1 1/4" steel channel wear bar that really locks in nice on the Plastic cleat . My KT7 is done this way .
There will be some damage to your guides . This is where the wire feed welder will work great . Weld any and all cracks .

Replace any missing spocket wear tubes that are missing . I know what you are thinking . " Where do I get Stainless steel tubing to make the wear tubes???"
From a Muffler shop !!!! They probably have scraps and will give you some pieces . I just cut them to length and then slice them open on one side with my 4" grinder . I use a rubber mallet and piece of pipe the same size as the wear tubes to hammer it down to the right diameter . Then cut the access off the tube and weld it in place where the old missing one was .

The KT3 will have 21- 4 hole and 21- 6 hole steel guides on each side . Take your time and clean them good , and a coat of good paint and they will look like new .

Once you have acquired new belting and it is punched then start the fun job of assembly . The bolts you are using will be 5/16"x 2 1/2" shoulder bolts .
Some folks like to use Stainless steel bolts for this but the factory used standard steel ones. You will use 210 bolts per side with nuts .
When I finish each side , I hardface the nut for better wear and to lock the bolt to the nut .
Plan on spending about $1000 bucks for belting if you buy it new . Mine came from Capitol Rubber in California .

I spent the day prepping the guides and getting stuff ready to paint before track reassembly . I'll grab a camera and take some pictures of the process so fellow KT3 owners will have a source to guide them through the process .


Its DR. Rum time , gentlemen :biggrin:


Did you use the old hickory cleats to heat the workshop? Or make tomato stakes out of them? Just wondering, and you broke the golden rule of no pictures .......
Ten demerits :flowers:

Pour me one too, but make it brandy and seven please :brows:
 
Hey Allen you know you can't burn hdpe grousers to stay warm when you get stuck and are waiting for a snot trac to pull you out.
 
Did you use the old hickory cleats to heat the workshop? Or make tomato stakes out of them? Just wondering, and you broke the golden rule of no pictures .......
Ten demerits :flowers:

Pour me one too, but make it brandy and seven please :brows:

New computer and I need to get the camera down load set up on it before I can post pictures .


Hey Allen you know you can't burn hdpe grousers to stay warm when you get stuck and are waiting for a snot trac to pull you out.



Go ahead and laugh ......but I am making head way for the first time in quite a while .
Today was a great day ! It took 2 hours to get the transmission linkage lined up and working correctly . The new throw out bearing seems to be smooth and working correctly .
The motor fired off this morning on the first try . Overall I feel pretty damn good .

In fact tonight found me on the computer ordering lots of new goodies for the KT3 .

I think I will switch over to a new Electronic ignition system and get rid of the points . The new motor is right at 1700CC and seems to run very smooth . I am hoping for a very good HP increase over the old 1300CC that came with it .

I will be very interested to see what it can do at wide open and 8 speeds to play with .

I am thinking or hoping for over 20 MPH .:smile:
 
Why is everyone concerned with speed in a slowcat? THEY ARE NOT MENT TO GO FAST!!!!!!
 
Why is everyone concerned with speed in a slowcat? THEY ARE NOT MENT TO GO FAST!!!!!!


It is when we are racing for 'Pinks" .:unsure:

If it is not important why did it matter so much with the FAA when they field tested the Kristy KT7 and it failed to make 20 MPH ????.
You know damn well the government has the final say on everything .
So Please get in line and stop the nonsense .......:wink:
 
glad you are making head way on the machine Allen. once you get it driving again it's going to be pretty hard to break our old habits of giving you $hit about your krusty
 
Tomorrow I am headed for town to get more channel steel for the wear bars.
Today I finished prepping the guides and making repairs where needed .They are now repainted and ready. The plastic cleats are all dado and ready to bolt up to the new punched belting . One more day of drilling 420 bolt holes in the new steel wear bars and than it will be time to start building tracks .:doh:
 
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darned Allen I'm going to have to practice not cracking jokes about your man cave ornament. don't forget to top off the tank if you run out of gas your buddy Bob will never let you live it down
 
Al, if you keep adding weight to the tracks you will need one of these

I think it's 135hp:w00t2:makes a vw run 11's in a quarter mile
 

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Made a visit to a buddy here in town . He just happens to own a Kristy KT3 . He picked it up last year and has been working on it . He took it out on its maiden voyage and was quite happy with its performace even though the motor was missing on one piston .

The plan is when I get up and running to run both rigs up and go fishing in the back country for steel head .

So we now have another KT3 up and running . This one has been repainted in a white and blue paint style .
 
Al, if you keep adding weight to the tracks you will need one of these

I think it's 135hp:w00t2:makes a vw run 11's in a quarter mile


The original wear bars were 1 1/4"x 1/8" flat bar . So I added a little weight :whistling: BUT the lite weight plastic cleats offsets this !!!!!!

Besides, I think my twin turbo motor will more than offset the weight factor:brows: .*I think its punching just over 200HP:w00t2:..


* Huh ?? !!!! That's suppose to be a Kristi "super secret" new addition so it never happened . We are talking "Black Ops " here
 
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