Handsaws

[XeVfTEUtaAqJHTqq]

I think I want to buy some more handsaws. I have lots of power tools but I like using a good handsaw.

I have a few Sandvik saws (~20 years old) that are nice - anyone bought a good hand saw recently?

What brands are good?

Also I've been thinking of getting some Japanese pull saws. Anyone have any experience with them?

 

[jpr62902]

I love my Sandvik dovetail saw.

Dozukis have a special technique to 'em, but if you get it down, they're purdy nifty.

 

[XeVfTEUtaAqJHTqq]

Yes, I think my Sandvik saws are very nice to use.

I want to get a big ole Rip Saw and a good saw for doing small trim and molding miter cuts.

There's a nice selection of saws at Lee Valley Tools, I may do an order there.

 

[jpr62902]

Yes, I think my Sandvik saws are very nice to use.

I want to get a big ole Rip Saw and a good saw for doing small trim and molding miter cuts.

There's a nice selection of saws at Lee Valley Tools, I may do an order there.

Like this one?

 

[XeVfTEUtaAqJHTqq]

Yeah, that is a sweet miter saw!

I'm tempted to buy this:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32926&cat=1,42884,43836

 

[XeVfTEUtaAqJHTqq]

But I may settle for the standard model . . .

 

[jpr62902]

It's an awesome miter box, I'll tell ya. The key is weight. Lotsa heavy duty steel in that thing, so no flexing, hence binding of the saw during cuts. If ya can find an old Craftsman, get it. You'll love it.

 

[Adillo303]

JPR - That saw is the kind of thing that dreams are made of. It is beautiful. Currently, I use a chop saw for this. I also saw a long time ago something like a guillotine that was for molding. You could set the angle like the saws that you posted, however you moved a lever and it sheared the wood. It was very sharp and made an incredibly smooth cut.

I have a pull saw and I am still getting used to it. I think that as you say, once you are used to it it will be neat. Somewhat off topic, here is my latest project. All from scratch Purple Heart and Hard Maple.

 

[jpr62902]

JPR - That saw is the kind of thing that dreams are made of. It is beautiful. Currently, I use a chop saw for this. I also saw a long time ago something like a guillotine that was for molding. You could set the angle like the saws that you posted, however you moved a lever and it sheared the wood. It was very sharp and made an incredibly smooth cut.

I have a pull saw and I am still getting used to it. I think that as you say, once you are used to it it will be neat. Somewhat off topic, here is my latest project. All from scratch Purple Heart and Hard Maple.

Very impressive, Andy. How did you plane\joint all that stock to such precise widths?

Also, what is the finish? Is that intended to be a cutting board? If so, I hope it's for display only. It's way too striking to have knife marks on it!

 

[Adillo303]

JPR - That board is my prototype. All of the cuts were made on my table saw. It is a double glue up. I will post a pic here of the first glue up.

The finish on the board is simply "Salad Bowl Finish" available from Rockler. It is FDA approved for food contact, as is the glue, Tite Bond II or III. As for Knife marks, it isnow in service. It is an end grain board which is easy on the knives. If I mark it up the sanders and more finish are out in the garage. I have three more boards to make for Family members for X-Mas and the self serve santa just brought me a Jointer (6 1/8") and a 13 " planer. The second board which it the pic that I posted is Awsome all the wood is perfectly square and flat. After this, I am going to do a jiotchen Cabinet out of Oak. If I get my router table built in time, I plan to make the raised panel doors. I just found plans last night (free plans at that) for a router table. I have made a kitchen / shop stoll by cutting 3/$" boards down from scrap 2 X 4's.

This is the blank after the First glue up. The board is then cross cut in 1 1/2 inch stripe all strips turned 90 degrees to expose the end grain then every other strip rotated 90 degrees to make the checkerboard and then glue up.

Thank you for the compliment.

 

[jimbo]

I use a Ryoba for most of my hand sawing. Doesn't take all that long to get the hang of it. The biggest drawback is in the sharpening. I use a disposable blade saw.
Since the saw doesn't flex, the blade is thinner and much more controllable.

 

[jpr62902]

JPR - That board is my prototype. All of the cuts were made on my table saw. It is a double glue up. I will post a pic here of the first glue up.

The finish on the board is simply "Salad Bowl Finish" available from Rockler. It is FDA approved for food contact, as is the glue, Tite Bond II or III. As for Knife marks, it isnow in service. It is an end grain board which is easy on the knives. If I mark it up the sanders and more finish are out in the garage. I have three more boards to make for Family members for X-Mas and the self serve santa just brought me a Jointer (6 1/8") and a 13 " planer. The second board which it the pic that I posted is Awsome all the wood is perfectly square and flat. After this, I am going to do a jiotchen Cabinet out of Oak. If I get my router table built in time, I plan to make the raised panel doors. I just found plans last night (free plans at that) for a router table. I have made a kitchen / shop stoll by cutting 3/$" boards down from scrap 2 X 4's.

This is the blank after the First glue up. The board is then cross cut in 1 1/2 inch stripe all strips turned 90 degrees to expose the end grain then every other strip rotated 90 degrees to make the checkerboard and then glue up.

Thank you for the compliment.

I'm jealous. I'll bet you have a helluva table saw to make such precise cuts. I'd love to have a Delta cabinet saw, but for now, it's a Porter Cable circular saw and a few straight edges.

 

[Adillo303]

My table saw is actually a Craftsman 10". It is a contractor model table saw. My blade, however is a Forrest Woodworker ii. Forrest blades really do make a difference. The saw is squared with a dial indicator to plus / minus .002". With a good blade and a good setup it is enough. For angles I have a "Tilt Box". It is a digital inclinometer. You put on the table and push zero then stick ti to the blade (it is magnetic) as you tilt the saw, it reads degrees of tilt in hundredths of a degree. I measure all thickensses, rips. etc with a ruler and do not rely on the gauges on the saw. As soon as I am able, I will get a digital fractional caliper. I really do not trust pointers on the machine.

I am not a pro, I am learning as I go. It is just such a complete joy to see something take shape and to learn with / for the next one.

 

[jpr62902]

My table saw is actually a Craftsman 10". It is a contractor model table saw. My blade, however is a Forrest Woodworker ii. Forrest blades really do make a difference. The saw is squared with a dial indicator to plus / minus .002". With a good blade and a good setup it is enough. For angles I have a "Tilt Box". It is a digital inclinometer. You put on the table and push zero then stick ti to the blade (it is magnetic) as you tilt the saw, it reads degrees of tilt in hundredths of a degree. I measure all thickensses, rips. etc with a ruler and do not rely on the gauges on the saw. As soon as I am able, I will get a digital fractional caliper. I really do not trust pointers on the machine.

I am not a pro, I am learning as I go. It is just such a complete joy to see something take shape and to learn with / for the next one.

When you get your planer and jointer, you can forget all that precision with your table saw. Just rough cut it and let the finishing tools do the rest!

 

[EastTexFrank]

Yeah, that is a sweet miter saw!

I'm tempted to buy this:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32926&cat=1,42884,43836

I have a Nobex Champion miter saw that looks almost exactly like that. It was the only thing that I used for years for making miters and still do when I need a really fine, exact cut. It's a really good piece of gear. There's something satisfying about using a hand saw. Don't know what it is.

I have a couple of Japanese flush cut saws of different sizes that work really well. You do have to slow down and think about what you are doing though because everything is backwards. It probably has to do with muscle memory and a lifetime of using western style saws.

 

[XeVfTEUtaAqJHTqq]

I have a good Delta power saw but for small trim jobs it's too big to haul around and it is also a pain to run up and down the stairs all the time.

I just did all the trim in my kids bathroom with a cheap yellow plastic miter box and a hand saw and it actually worked "good enough". It would be pretty nice to have a fancier tool though.

Nice work Andy - that is a cool looking board!

 

[EastTexFrank]

When you get your planer and jointer, you can forget all that precision with your table saw. Just rough cut it and let the finishing tools do the rest!

Yea, I have a Delta planer/jointer too and while useful, it's not quite the same. My wife is the one who commented, "How come you spend 30 minutes setting up the saw for a 10 second cut?". Because when you do it and not only get it right, but you get it "perfect", it give you a sense of satisfaction that is difficult to equal.

 

[jpr62902]

I have a good Delta power saw but for small trim jobs it's too big to haul around and it is also a pain to run up and down the stairs all the time.

I just did all the trim in my kids bathroom with a cheap yellow plastic miter box and a hand saw and it actually worked "good enough". It would be pretty nice to have a fancier tool though.

Nice work Andy - that is a cool looking board!

Since this is a hand saw thread, did you also use a coping saw for that trim work?

 

[jpr62902]

Yea, I have a Delta planer/jointer too and while useful, it's not quite the same. My wife is the one who commented, "How come you spend 30 minutes setting up the saw for a 10 second cut?". Because when you do it and not only get it right, but you get it "perfect", it give you a sense of satisfaction that is difficult to equal.

Rub it in, Frank. I'm sure it's real nice when your table saw with 3 hp and an 80 tooth Freud thin kerf 10" blade makes cuts that are as smooth as glass. My Dewalt miter saw does that on crosscuts. But rip cuts get jointed in my poor man's shop.

Show off.

 

[EastTexFrank]

Rub it in, Frank. I'm sure it's real nice when your table saw with 3 hp and an 80 tooth Freud thin kerf 10" blade makes cuts that are as smooth as glass. My Dewalt miter saw does that on crosscuts. But rip cuts get jointed in my poor man's shop.

Show off.

Well, I wouldn't quite go that far.

When we came here 13 years ago, I brought my Craftsman 10" saw with me but I will admit that I did have a selection of really nice blades. I had my shop wired with the intent of getting a honking, 240v, V8, horrendous horsepower, sawdust spewing table saw but you know what? ... that ol' Craftsman still does everything I need to do and I've still got it. Maybe someday I'll upgrade but I can't see it being anytime soon.