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Fill-Rite Fuel Transfer Pump help ........

We have a 1200 model . Was working great until we decided to change the filter then turned out the suction tube in the tank came off . I replaced it with a 24" 1" pipe . Don't understand what happened to it . The filter is dry , the tank is full what can I do besides replace the pump ? Everything inside looks good and turns easy . Any ideas asap ?
 
Iceman, welcome to the forum! :tiphat:

You should pm tuthillcorp. He's great at helping with pump problems. He can get you part numbers for anything you need.

First I would check the new suction tube length to make sure it's not touching the bottom and blocking the inlet.

Jim
 
Hello Iceman,

TuthillCorp here. Sorry to hear that you lost your suction pipe in the tank. That does happen from time to time.

As Jim mentioned, you do need to make sure that your suction pipe isn't down by the bottom of the tank. We recommend that it be at least 2 to 3 inches above the bottom of the tank to ensure good fuel flow.

Another thing to check is to make sure that the threads on the new suction pipe are sealed. If there is any possibility of air getting in, the pump will pull in air.

One other thing to do to try and get the pump to prime is to either remove the nozzle (I am guessing that you are using an automatic nozzle, like at a gas station) and see if the pump will prime.

The automatic nozzles have a check valve in the spout (where it connects to the nozzle body), and if there is air trapped in the pump, the pump won't generate enough air pressure to open the check valve in the nozzle. If the air is "trapped" in the pump and can't be discharged, nothing will happen.

Of course, the last thing (or maybe the first thing) is to make sure that the voltage to the pump is connected correctly. If the wiring is reversed (+ on black and - on red), the pump will run in reverse and nothing will pump.

I am currently traveling out of the country, but I will check my e-mails from time to time, so let me know if you get your pump back up and running.

Best Regards,
Tuthill Tech Support
 
iceman93 said:
We have a 1200 model . Was working great until we decided to change the filter then turned out the suction tube in the tank came off . I replaced it with a 24" 1" pipe . Don't understand what happened to it . The filter is dry , the tank is full what can I do besides replace the pump ? Everything inside looks good and turns easy . Any ideas asap ?
Click to expand...

First off WELCOME to the forum, but secondly don't lose faith in the pump. All of us here who have used these pumps have an issue from time to time and Fill-Rite/Tuthill have come along and helped every one of us.

Try the suggestions above, and if those don't work, repost, with photos and more information. Most likely it will be made to work again.
 
I have a fill right pump problem I have to pack the cavity's of the pump with grease to get it to pump once it is shut off you have to re prime it again the veins look good but do have some wear I don't know how much is too much the relief valve has been removed and cleaned same problem the data plate says style fr4200d
 
Thanks Don,

TuthillCorp here. Sorry to hear about your issue with the FR4200D series pump not wanting to prime.

You mention that the vanes are worn. If they are worn, then the rotor is worn as well. If they wear enough, there will be a gap between the rotor cover and the rotor, which will decrease the vacuum the pump can generate.

Can you tell me how old the pump is? On the data plate, in the bottom left corner, you should see 4 numbers stamped into the plate. The first 2 numbers are the week we manufactured the pump, and the last 2 numbers are the year.

It could be that you simply need to replace the rotor and the vanes, along with the rotor cover, rotor cover gasket, and the rotor key.

Also, on the vanes themselves, one side is smooth, and the other side will either have 1 large notch in it, or 3 notches. If you can tell me which one, I can let you know what options you have for parts.

Best Regards,
TuthillCorp

Snowtrac Nome said:
I have a fill right pump problem I have to pack the cavity's of the pump with grease to get it to pump once it is shut off you have to re prime it again the veins look good but do have some wear I don't know how much is too much the relief valve has been removed and cleaned same problem the data plate says style fr4200d
Click to expand...
 
TuthillCorp said:
Thanks Don,

TuthillCorp here. Sorry to hear about your issue with the FR4200D series pump not wanting to prime.
Click to expand...
You guys are awesome. Not even an hour elapsed before you were helping.

I'll keep buying your pumps. :)

Still wish you had a hand-crank that for a 55-gal that can handle alcohol.
 
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there is a single depression in the vein just like the larger blackmear pumps I work on the date code is 05-05 when I got the pump it was sealed with silicone I cleaned all the crap out of it and installed a o-ring from my cat kit. it may be the o-ring is too big to finances are tight right now it may be I just need to buy a rebuild kit for it
 
bczoom said:
You guys are awesome. Not even an hour elapsed before you were helping.

I'll keep buying your pumps. :)

Still wish you had a hand-crank that for a 55-gal that handle alcohol.
Click to expand...

you are right the tech support side is awesome, not like some company's that say it must be abuse or what do you expect out of a product that is 10 years old. this pump is a keeper I will eventually rebuild it and continue to use it for product transfer as my 110 volt dispenser pump is just too heavy. and also has a water block filter for final delivery into the truck.
 
Snowtrac Nome said:
good info replaced the o-ring with a softer thinner silicone type sucks like monica Lewinsky now
Click to expand...

God, I wish that I'd said that!!!!

For TuthillCorp, I've had one of your 110v pumps for the 12 years and it's still going strong. The 12v pump is only a few months old but I expect that it'll see me out. Thanks for a great product ... and customer service.
 
Where to find a Rotor Key for a C1200?

This message is directed to Mr. TuthillCorp, but also others who may be able to help:

I am desperately in need of the rotor key that affixes the rotor to the motor shaft of my Fill-Rite 1200C transfer pump (build date: 18/08).

I have not been able to source just the key, and as all other parts in the pump work perfectly fine and there is no corrosion or debris build-up (less than 1/2 hour total service on the unit), I do not need an expensive rebuild kit. Just a replacement for the fiberboard key I lost!

Can you help? I live in the Portland, OR region.

Thanks, JM
 
Re: Where to find a Rotor Key for a C1200?

JM,

Thanks for the private message on this issue.

I will be able to help you out!

Best Regards,
TuthillCorp

juniormarbles said:
This message is directed to Mr. TuthillCorp, but also others who may be able to help:

I am desperately in need of the rotor key that affixes the rotor to the motor shaft of my Fill-Rite 1200C transfer pump (build date: 18/08).

I have not been able to source just the key, and as all other parts in the pump work perfectly fine and there is no corrosion or debris build-up (less than 1/2 hour total service on the unit), I do not need an expensive rebuild kit. Just a replacement for the fiberboard key I lost!

Can you help? I live in the Portland, OR region.

Thanks, JM
Click to expand...
 
I am elated! Thank you so much for your help.

It's been a long time since I have received such dedication from any representative of a company! I've followed Mr. Tuthill's previous responses to other Fill-Rite owners' queries, and can only hope that Tuthill's management recognizes what a difference his service makes for the company's image and reputation.
This kind of customer service influences my future buying decisions.

JM
 
Pump works again, thanks to Mr. Tuthill's superb customer service.

I can heartily recommend the Tuthill company's products, just for the fact alone that its customer service is absolutely tops!
JM
 
My 12v pump's rotor spins freely so the fiber key needs to be replaced. How does it come off? The rotor spins freely but does not slide off. Do I need to remove the center screw? If so, how since the motor turns with the screw? CanI get only the fiber key? The pump is a couple of years old but has only been used a total of 45 minutes.
 
Thanks for your post on your 12 VDC pump.


I a man a bit confused to your reference of a "center screw". We do not have any screws inside the pump. There should only be the rotor, the vanes (they slide in the slots in the rotor), and the fiber rotor key.


If you can send me a picture of the center screw, that would also help.


You should be able to remove the vanes and slide the rotor off the motor shaft and clean out the broken rotor.


If you private message me with your address, I can get you a new fiber rotor key.


Thanks again for your post.


Best Regards,
TuthillCorp


crhabeck said:
My 12v pump's rotor spins freely so the fiber key needs to be replaced. How does it come off? The rotor spins freely but does not slide off. Do I need to remove the center screw? If so, how since the motor turns with the screw? CanI get only the fiber key? The pump is a couple of years old but has only been used a total of 45 minutes.
Click to expand...
 
Hi,

Sorfy about the delay. Mixed up two different items. I do need a new key though.

How do you send a private message?

Thanks
 
No problem crhabeck,

I sent you a private message. You can access it by clicking on private messages at the top right of the page in the grey box that says Welcome crhabeck.

Best Regards,
TuthillCorp
 
mr tuthill I have a pump had a bad o ring in it I installed a new one from an o ring kit that was the wrong size I cracked my pump housing is it cost effective to order a new pump assembly or is it just good for parts now
 
Hello Snowtrac,

Ouch, the pump housing actually cracked? If possible, I would like to see a picture of what cracked.

To answer your question though, we do not provide the pump housing casting. On many of our models, the pump casting is actually part of the motor assembly. Trying to remove it creates an issue with the explosion proof rating of the pump as it compromises the flame paths that we need to build into the pump to get our explosion proof approvals.

So, bottom line, your pump is now good for parts.

Again, I would like to see a picture if you could.

Best Regards,
TuthillCorp

Snowtrac Nome said:
mr tuthill I have a pump had a bad o ring in it I installed a new one from an o ring kit that was the wrong size I cracked my pump housing is it cost effective to order a new pump assembly or is it just good for parts now
Click to expand...
 
TuthillCorp said:
Hello Snowtrac,

Ouch, the pump housing actually cracked? If possible, I would like to see a picture of what cracked.

To answer your question though, we do not provide the pump housing casting. On many of our models, the pump casting is actually part of the motor assembly. Trying to remove it creates an issue with the explosion proof rating of the pump as it compromises the flame paths that we need to build into the pump to get our explosion proof approvals.

So, bottom line, your pump is now good for parts.

Again, I would like to see a picture if you could.



Best Regards,
TuthillCorp
Click to expand...

going to teller this morning when I get back I will put it up I know of another pump with a bad motor but it is locked up and that crew hasn't been back to town for years I know you don't want to hear it if I can get my hands on that one some day I will replace the motor with mine .
 
Snowtrac Nome said:
going to teller this morning when I get back I will put it up I know of another pump with a bad motor but it is locked up and that crew hasn't been back to town for years I know you don't want to hear it if I can get my hands on that one some day I will replace the motor with mine .
Click to expand...

Hello Snowtrac,

I understand where you are coming from.

Just let me know if you have any further questions!

Best Regards,
TuthillCorp
 
Tuthill - Hope you're still around.
I have your FR1211C 12v pump with manual nozzle.
Want to switch to an auto nozzle.
I'm pumping gas.
I think your N075UAU10 nozzle looks like what I need but hoping you can confirm or provide a more appropriate model.

Thanks in advance!
 
Hello,
I have a model 700 pump that was working fine on my diesel tank. The problem is when i installed it on a gasoline tank it worked about 4 times and it quit. What is does is that it hums. So i removed the cover for the veins and rotor. And turned it on and it spins. When i put the cover it will only spin if i dont tighten the bolts. So basically is looks like the vein and or rotor is being compressed when the cover is on. Can someone help me out and give me an idea on what is causing this. I though maybe the gasket on the cover shrank but no it is slightly popping out of the opening it goes into. Is it possible that the shaft the rotor goes on could have moved out of place?
 
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