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Door jam issue.

Doc

Bottoms Up
Staff member
GOLD Site Supporter
I have an entry door from the garage into the house. By far the most used door in the house.
I have replaced the door handle and hardware in the door once or twice in the 24 years since we built this house.

When I replaced them I saw the screw holes that hold the plate for the latch that goes into the jam were stripped out. I put a toothpick or two in there and got a screw to go in okay. On one I think I used a longer screw.

Now the issue is back again. Door won't close without manually turning the handle. Screw hole are reamed out. Thinking plastic wood and toothpicks might work again and new hardware might fix it. Ever so helpful son in law said you really need a new door. I had not even considered that. The door does take a beating. Open and closes a lot of times during any day. On most summer weekends we have 14 of us in the house and kids are in and out and in and out over and over.

Looking for thoughts on what would be best. Repair the door (how would be best) or buy new and move on. Lowes has similar new doors for 349. That includes the framing (prehung) that I do not need but I don't think you can buy just the door. Ideas please.
 

jpr62902

Jeanclaude Spam Banhammer
SUPER Site Supporter
KISS method. Drill out the latch plate screw holes and fill with a wood dowel glued in. Predrill the screw holes and replace the latch plate.
 

Mark1911

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
Assuming the jamb is mortised for the strike plate, just replace the screws with 3”. The mortise will hold the plate in place, and you’ll bypass the jamb wood and anchor your strike plate to the stud(s) behind the jamb in the wall. Just don’t over-tighten, as you can warp/crack the jamb if you crank it down too tight.
 

FrancSevin

Proudly Deplorable
GOLD Site Supporter
Assuming the jamb is mortised for the strike plate, just replace the screws with 3”. The mortise will hold the plate in place, and you’ll bypass the jamb wood and anchor your strike plate to the stud(s) behind the jamb in the wall. Just don’t over-tighten, as you can warp/crack the jamb if you crank it down too tight.
This solution has always worked for me.
Be sure to put a spacer behind the strike plate between the jam and the frame. I use two tapered wedges and slide them until tight.

Predrill so they don't split.

This will last damn near forever.
 

chowderman

Well-known member
take the hinges off and check them for wear/elongated holes . . . .
wear can let the door tilt/cock in the frame.

sounds like a wood door and frame? . . .
should be room to over drill the wood screw holes and use stainless inserts. replace wood screws with machine screw. . .
caution: get the hole size right on similar scrap wood; drilled too tight and they'll split the frame.
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