olympicorange
Active member
….. looking great... love the ''mock'' run.... '' working smarter, not harder''... good technique for checking leaks, fine tuning, etc... one of my favorite methods when reassembling, saves a lot of time... 
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Bombardier SV200 restoration
- Thread starter Jphoenix
- Start date
Jphoenix
Well-known member
More cleaning and sanding and welding cracks and painting. Where is the original location for the battery on this cat?
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MNoutdoors RIP
Gone But Not Forgotten
MNoutdoors RIP
Gone But Not Forgotten
Yes, on the outside edge
Jphoenix
Well-known member
The engine was running excessively rich, so after rebuilding the carb did not solve the problem, I bought a new carb from Mike's Carburetors in Chehalis, WA. This one has an adjustable main jet. After installing the carb and adding a manual choke, I fired up the cat and adjusted the main and idle jets and it's simply amazing how much nicer it runs - no more clouds of black smoke. Idles nicely.
Then on to cleaning and painting and reassembling heaters and the engine cover. All these rusty parts get blasted to bare metal, metal prepped and two coats of POR-15, first coat is flat black, second coat gloss gray so I can make sure I get complete coverage on both coats.
Then on to cleaning and painting and reassembling heaters and the engine cover. All these rusty parts get blasted to bare metal, metal prepped and two coats of POR-15, first coat is flat black, second coat gloss gray so I can make sure I get complete coverage on both coats.
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Jphoenix
Well-known member
olympicorange
Active member
….. oh boy, been there more times than I care to remember....heater boxes and air filter bonnet assys….. nasty rodents....
Jphoenix
Well-known member
The only thing I like about POR-15 is how tough it is in service. Once it dries (fast, about 6 hours in the cold and wet) it is very hard and impervious to scratches, chemicals, etc. If it dries on your skin - it will come off if you scrub your skin off, nasty stuff. I buy extra empty cans because partially used cans can be impossible to open again if you let the stuff dry in the lid grooves. It's a real pain to work with. I buy lots of chip brushes and throw them away after use. You can clean it with lacquer thinner before it dries.
It's no good over any kind of paint, apply it to bare steel prepped with a phosphate conversion coat of some sort (metal prep) and you MUST do two coats because it runs like a deer and gets very thin on sharp edges, so those very thin edges will rust again if you do not apply two coats. With two coats, it's bulletproof.
For any decorative finish, I sand the POR a bit and shoot it with a build primer, etc. I typically use it on engine parts, frame, other fitting etc. or over very rusty parts (like the heater housings) suspension parts. I think it would be perfect for grousers, but I didn't do mine because I was too lazy to blast them all and then paint them all, bad enough having to assemble them all!
Just plain old Ford blue from the rustoleum engine paint can.
It's no good over any kind of paint, apply it to bare steel prepped with a phosphate conversion coat of some sort (metal prep) and you MUST do two coats because it runs like a deer and gets very thin on sharp edges, so those very thin edges will rust again if you do not apply two coats. With two coats, it's bulletproof.
For any decorative finish, I sand the POR a bit and shoot it with a build primer, etc. I typically use it on engine parts, frame, other fitting etc. or over very rusty parts (like the heater housings) suspension parts. I think it would be perfect for grousers, but I didn't do mine because I was too lazy to blast them all and then paint them all, bad enough having to assemble them all!
Just plain old Ford blue from the rustoleum engine paint can.
Jphoenix
Well-known member
Speaking of which, final coat of POR on the engine house and new molded heater hoses, recommended by a forum member here, and with help from my local NAPA guy, found two hoses that are perfect!
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Jphoenix
Well-known member
If you are looking for a molded radiator hose, go here : https://assets.gates.com/content/da...gs/gates-molded-coolant-hose-id-guide_web.pdf
Jphoenix
Well-known member
Big day today - moved the cat out of the garage and into its new tent to await the repainting of the cab. Here it is in the tent - and in the other tent is a catboat I bought last year. A Marshall Sanderling, they are rare in the PNW - most catboats live in the northeast which is where we fell in love with them, so when this one came up for sale, we bought it.
Next I brought the cab down to start sanding all the rust and bondo off.
Next I brought the cab down to start sanding all the rust and bondo off.
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:th_lmao:
olympicorange
Active member
….. fuel tanks are always a challenge …. you can spend a lot of time cleaning ,.. blasting, the 'ol '' marvel mystery oil & marbles ''trick,.. etc... to find out … I've got to reskin it …. ''nothing ventured, nothing gained'' ….
Jphoenix
Well-known member
Yeah, easier to weld up a new one. Plate steel is cheap.
Jphoenix
Well-known member
After installing a new 110 amp Delcotron, I started fabbing up and welding up a new fuel tank. The old one held 28 gallons, this one is slightly larger and will hold 30 gallons.
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MNoutdoors RIP
Gone But Not Forgotten
Jphoenix
Well-known member
Excellent, I was just discussing the cab arrangement with my wife who is a digital artist, for her to creat a nice paint scheme for the extended cab. I plan to do something similar, but my cab will extend back to within 12” of the end of the bed, the new fuel tank will take up the last 12”.
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Jphoenix
Well-known member
Fuel tank mostly done, just have to attach mounting angles and a drain plug boss, something the original tank could have used ? this project took longer than expected as I ran out of argon and work has been busy this week. I hope to get the tank on the cat tomorrow after slosh and painting. Then steering cylinder overhaul (leaking) and then back to cab work.
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olympicorange
Active member
……. nicely done, are you thinking of sealing the inside of the tank, I've had good & bad experiences /luck in that area....
Jphoenix
Well-known member
Yeah, great question. after much thought I decided I will use POR's tank sealer, I've had good luck with it when I follow the directions - marine clean first, then metal prep then the sealer.
I don't really want to, but I know the tank will be half empty at best and up here in the humid northwest, it will rust quickly, especially since it's mild steel and was welded on.
Ideas or tips?
I don't really want to, but I know the tank will be half empty at best and up here in the humid northwest, it will rust quickly, especially since it's mild steel and was welded on.
Ideas or tips?
MNoutdoors RIP
Gone But Not Forgotten
Just curious why not aluminum?
I’ve done quite a few poly tanks, but yours was more size specific
Ive just started following your rebuild, you have got quite a lot done in a short period of time. Good job! Marty
Jphoenix
Well-known member
No specific reason, honestly did not think about it, the old one was steel, so I just replicated it, almost, a tad larger. But I think you have a good point, aluminum would have less corrosion.
