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Body prep, and interior for my rebuilt 1991 dodge first gen

Whenever you tape around something, that’s where the edge can start to peel or chip, the wind shield and rear window are installed with a big rubber gasket and I want to paint under it. Everything else was removed for the same reason.
i have tucked a small rope under the lip of the seal with great success, just aim a little paint and clear under it at the start of your coat
 
i have tucked a small rope under the lip of the seal with great success, just aim a little paint and clear under it at the start of your coat
That’s a good idea and have thought about doing somthing like that and may experiment, but for a hundred bucks or so having it done isn’t a deal breaker.
 
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This area had been repair sometime in the passed, it’s a classic example of why you don’t put filler over holes.
The filler had cracks that extended thru the paint, when removed, it was found that the holes let in moisture that then surface rusted under the filler and separated, if your in a cold climate it can be amplified by moisture getting in then freezing, just like it splits big rocks. I welded in a patch to eliminate that. The mig and .023 wire made it easy.
 
Welded up the OE holes for body trim and fender flares, I am deleting the trim and fender flares, looks cleaner to me.
 
The top of the bed was Swiss cheese, I counted 16 drilled holes of various sizes ranging from 1/4” to 1/2” on both sides. That’s over 30 holes WTF.
 
The spot welds that held the top of the bed to the tailgate flange was separated and lifted. Now straight and re welded.
 
Now that one of the long boards and sandpaper showed up, I went and got some filler and a cheese grater rasp to knock it down some before sanding. I have a little more dent pulling and then it’s time for the filler. I would like to paint it before thanksgiving.
 
Found silicone at the top of the windshield gasket, so now it has to come out for sure, got a price today for a mobile glass guy to remove the windshield and rear glass then come back after paint and re install with new gaskets. $450.00
$100.00 in and out for each and $50.00 for the gasket.
 
That’s a good idea and have thought about doing somthing like that and may experiment, but for a hundred bucks or so having it done isn’t a deal breaker.
You are attempting to make this old truck a comparable to a new build. So put it back together, the way it was originally constructed as best you can, as though is a new build!!!
 
Engine is new, slightly turned up, with 4” exhaust, I’m adding a 3200 rpm governor spring, 50 hp injectors, valve springs to handle the increased rpm and head studs for insurance, it already has a hx35 turbo, when that is done it will put me in 350 hp 700-800 tq range. I’m deleting all the body side trim and fender flares, new factory interior, already has a small lift kit on it. I will also go with 35” tires and aluminum rims. A little resto modded and twice the power as OE, it already has a southbend 800 hp clutch. I want it to be a clean looking capable truck. I’m buying a new camper soon and this truck is going to drag our asses around the country on road trips, the first trip will be the Florida keys and the Grand Canyon on the way back, planned for sometime in the first quarter of 2026.
 
Busy day today, had a bunch of domestic to do, dump run etc. after lunch I took a few minutes to quickly sweep,the painted surfaces with a long board with 80 grit, the shiny spot on the hood is low, likely from someone’s fat ass sitting on it. The bed sides mostly small dents on the body lines, worse panel by far is the driver door. Tomorrow I have to get some materials for the last job we are finishing and drop it off in Modesto, while I’m out I plan to pick up some white primer and some flat black to fog on the primer then sand off with the board to reveal low spots. Next week I’ll be retired and can get after it. Shouldn’t be more than a couple weeks before it’s primed, blocked out and ready for paint.
 
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