i have tucked a small rope under the lip of the seal with great success, just aim a little paint and clear under it at the start of your coat
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Body prep, and interior for my rebuilt 1991 dodge first gen
- Thread starter m1west
- Start date
That’s a good idea and have thought about doing somthing like that and may experiment, but for a hundred bucks or so having it done isn’t a deal breaker.
This area had been repair sometime in the passed, it’s a classic example of why you don’t put filler over holes.
The filler had cracks that extended thru the paint, when removed, it was found that the holes let in moisture that then surface rusted under the filler and separated, if your in a cold climate it can be amplified by moisture getting in then freezing, just like it splits big rocks. I welded in a patch to eliminate that. The mig and .023 wire made it easy.
The filler had cracks that extended thru the paint, when removed, it was found that the holes let in moisture that then surface rusted under the filler and separated, if your in a cold climate it can be amplified by moisture getting in then freezing, just like it splits big rocks. I welded in a patch to eliminate that. The mig and .023 wire made it easy.
Found silicone at the top of the windshield gasket, so now it has to come out for sure, got a price today for a mobile glass guy to remove the windshield and rear glass then come back after paint and re install with new gaskets. $450.00
$100.00 in and out for each and $50.00 for the gasket.
$100.00 in and out for each and $50.00 for the gasket.
You are attempting to make this old truck a comparable to a new build. So put it back together, the way it was originally constructed as best you can, as though is a new build!!!
Engine is new, slightly turned up, with 4” exhaust, I’m adding a 3200 rpm governor spring, 50 hp injectors, valve springs to handle the increased rpm and head studs for insurance, it already has a hx35 turbo, when that is done it will put me in 350 hp 700-800 tq range. I’m deleting all the body side trim and fender flares, new factory interior, already has a small lift kit on it. I will also go with 35” tires and aluminum rims. A little resto modded and twice the power as OE, it already has a southbend 800 hp clutch. I want it to be a clean looking capable truck. I’m buying a new camper soon and this truck is going to drag our asses around the country on road trips, the first trip will be the Florida keys and the Grand Canyon on the way back, planned for sometime in the first quarter of 2026.
Busy day today, had a bunch of domestic to do, dump run etc. after lunch I took a few minutes to quickly sweep,the painted surfaces with a long board with 80 grit, the shiny spot on the hood is low, likely from someone’s fat ass sitting on it. The bed sides mostly small dents on the body lines, worse panel by far is the driver door. Tomorrow I have to get some materials for the last job we are finishing and drop it off in Modesto, while I’m out I plan to pick up some white primer and some flat black to fog on the primer then sand off with the board to reveal low spots. Next week I’ll be retired and can get after it. Shouldn’t be more than a couple weeks before it’s primed, blocked out and ready for paint.
Today, I spent about 6 hours fixing the worse panel on the truck, the flat panel on the driver door, after filling and blocking then using black primer for guide coat, then repeating that process a bunch of times that panel is now the straightest panel on the truck. Tomorrow I’ll fix the panel above with the window and the lower door panel. The fender and bed on this side won’t require a lot, mostly scratches and a few small dings.
When you get that one done I've got one for you also!!
Get in line, l have 2 more after this one, another first gen and a 1969 power wagon Cummins conversion.When you get that one done I've got one for you also!!
About 99% done filling and blocking the truck body, started on the tailgate while waiting for filler to harden on the few spots left on it. The tailgate had a bow in the middle of about 1/2” top and bottom and a couple good size dents on the inside, was able to weld 5/16 flange nuts ont it and used a piece of heavy angle iron with drilled holes and all thread to un taco it. Then start the filling and sanding. Not to worried about the inside as it will have spray on bed liner. Sometime next week the windshield and rear slider need to come out, so the whole truck can be primed and the blocking of the primer starting with 180 grit progressing to 600 grit eliminating scratches, paint chips etc, then the paint. I just ordered a vevor portable spray booth to paint it in.
It has 2 fans one blows it up and the other blows air in and exits thru filters to evacuate the overspray, this one is 33’x16’x11’-6”, plenty big enough. I also bought the recommended auxiliary evacuation fan to keep the overspray in check. Only thing I need now is a new compressor and the paint. Now I’m set up for body and paint going forward.
Today I started the wet block sanding with 180 grit, yesterday I hit the body work areas with primer that were done with 80 grit. The last picture up close shows the 80 grit scratches that have been filled with primer as I sanded it down with the 180 grit.
I put some more white rattle can primer on those areas to be sanded tomorrow. After sanding, I plan to roll it outside and wash it, then the next step is to pull the windshield and rear slider, prime the whole truck and begin the wet sanding on the whole thing, the goal is to block the whole thing down progressing from 180, 220, 320,400 to 600 with no burn thru so the whole truck is white sanded to 600 grit, then the paint. I’m running a little behind my self imposed schedule of getting it painted by thanksgiving. The truck has zero rust issues but its the worse vehicle I have ever done the body work on without changing fenders and doors, that would have saved a lot of work. The problem is is it’s very difficult to find parts for these trucks without buying a whole truck for the parts and when you can find doors and fenders they normally have some kind of damage on them anyway like the replacement tailgate that costed $250.00 it was a bitch but it’s straight now.
I put some more white rattle can primer on those areas to be sanded tomorrow. After sanding, I plan to roll it outside and wash it, then the next step is to pull the windshield and rear slider, prime the whole truck and begin the wet sanding on the whole thing, the goal is to block the whole thing down progressing from 180, 220, 320,400 to 600 with no burn thru so the whole truck is white sanded to 600 grit, then the paint. I’m running a little behind my self imposed schedule of getting it painted by thanksgiving. The truck has zero rust issues but its the worse vehicle I have ever done the body work on without changing fenders and doors, that would have saved a lot of work. The problem is is it’s very difficult to find parts for these trucks without buying a whole truck for the parts and when you can find doors and fenders they normally have some kind of damage on them anyway like the replacement tailgate that costed $250.00 it was a bitch but it’s straight now.
Been cold here but I managed to get the rear slider out without breaking it or ruining the gasket,then used a razor knife to cut the outside of the windshield gasket off exposing the windshield, when my son returns Monday I can lift it out, no sense taking a chance on dropping it to save a day.