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Body prep, and interior for my rebuilt 1991 dodge first gen
- Thread starter m1west
- Start date
Started the bodywork in preparation for paint, got a quote for $4000.00 for a 2 stage paint job that included final priming and block sanding to remove scratches from the 240 grit that I will finish the body work in, also includes the doors and door jams, the interior will also be removed, seats carpet, door panels and weather seals.
All the trim , lights , tail lights, door handles etc, will be removed and re installed by me along with new carpet and sound deadening, recovered seat and headliner. When done it’s a new 1991 w250, engine and complete drivetrain have already been rebuilt with around 5000 miles on it. So far got the emblems and fender flairs removed, and started pulling dents with a paintless dent pulling system ( the pull attachments go on with hot glue ) worked good until some of the paint came off the dent, now doesn’t stick very well, and doesn’t work at all on primer or bare metal.
Just orderd a stud gun type dent puller kit, will be here in a week or so, it’s a stronger system to pull dents, just sand the paint off, shoot an attachment ring onto the metal and use the dent puller to pull the dent. In the old days you drilled a hole for a screw, and the panel looked like Swiss cheese when done. To get the attachment off, just twist it. I’ll get the trim glue off while I’m waiting.
All the trim , lights , tail lights, door handles etc, will be removed and re installed by me along with new carpet and sound deadening, recovered seat and headliner. When done it’s a new 1991 w250, engine and complete drivetrain have already been rebuilt with around 5000 miles on it. So far got the emblems and fender flairs removed, and started pulling dents with a paintless dent pulling system ( the pull attachments go on with hot glue ) worked good until some of the paint came off the dent, now doesn’t stick very well, and doesn’t work at all on primer or bare metal.
Just orderd a stud gun type dent puller kit, will be here in a week or so, it’s a stronger system to pull dents, just sand the paint off, shoot an attachment ring onto the metal and use the dent puller to pull the dent. In the old days you drilled a hole for a screw, and the panel looked like Swiss cheese when done. To get the attachment off, just twist it. I’ll get the trim glue off while I’m waiting.
NorthernRedneck
Well-known member
Nice. If that truck was up here, it would have been a crumbling pile of run about 15 years ago
Still waiting on the stud pull dent puller so I installed a Frantz bypass oil filter onto it today, I bought it a month or more ago, today I changed the oil on the wife’s Land Rover and this truck today so I figured it would be a good time to install the Fratz system, for those not familiar, it takes a small amount of oil, but is continually running through a 2 micron toilet paper type filter in conjunction with your OE filter system. Cummins diesel engines that you hear about that go a million miles normally have this system on the engine. The hardest part was finding a suitable place under the hood to mount it. Top picture is the unit, second picture is the OE oil filter housing where I attached the feed line, third picture is the oil returning inside the oil fill tube. The orifices in the filter are small and the filter is tight so there is no loss of oil pressure.
We used to run "Spinner" bypass oil filters. This is a canister with a paper sleeve on the outer wall of the canister. A small centrifuge. The thing spins at a crazy rpm, driven by the truck's air system. It's crazy the amount of solids this thing collects the first time it's used. And that's after the trucks had been running the big luberfiner bypass filters. At least 3/8" of crud. After the first time. We'd get about 1/8" of crud before oil analysis called for a lube change after that. Mostly Cats, but some Cummins. Way back in the 80's.
Same result, will require minimal filler. There is another dent that will require pulling on the passenger door, then it’s time to pull everything off, lights, door handles/locks, mirrors, interior etc. at some point I’m going to unbolt the bed so it can be painted off the truck to get the bed front and the rear of the cab. I got a paint only quote for a 2 stage paint job for $4000,00. I could paint it myself if my son doesn’t have the shop full of fabrication, that would save both money and time. When it’s ready I’ll make that decision.
After I got home today, I removed the grill, tail lights, mirrors, front side marker lights and door panels, tomorrow I’ll hit for a couple hours and see if I can get the bumpers off. Still have bumpers , tailgate trim, wipers, interior and taking the bed loose to go. Couldn’t find my long board sander, so I ordered a new electric one instead of air and a manual long board, about the time I get the truck stripped it should be showing up.
When I got home today I pulled the bumpers off, what a chore, door handles, locks, rear cab light, carpet, seat and weather stripping to go. I plan to go back with new door and window seals and new lenses for all the exterior lights along with some L.E.D. Head lights on the outside, new seat upholstery and carpet on the inside plus some sound deadening. While I was under the truck I checked out the mounts for the bed, won’t be too bad.