• Please be sure to read the rules and adhere to them. Some banned members have complained that they are not spammers. But they spammed us. Some even tried to redirect our members to other forums. Duh. Be smart. Read the rules and adhere to them and we will all get along just fine. Cheers. :beer: Link to the rules: https://www.forumsforums.com/threads/forum-rules-info.2974/

Body prep, and interior for my rebuilt 1991 dodge first gen

m1west

Well-known member
IMG_3885.jpeg
IMG_3891.jpeg
IMG_3894.jpeg
IMG_3895.jpeg
 
Started the bodywork in preparation for paint, got a quote for $4000.00 for a 2 stage paint job that included final priming and block sanding to remove scratches from the 240 grit that I will finish the body work in, also includes the doors and door jams, the interior will also be removed, seats carpet, door panels and weather seals.
All the trim , lights , tail lights, door handles etc, will be removed and re installed by me along with new carpet and sound deadening, recovered seat and headliner. When done it’s a new 1991 w250, engine and complete drivetrain have already been rebuilt with around 5000 miles on it. So far got the emblems and fender flairs removed, and started pulling dents with a paintless dent pulling system ( the pull attachments go on with hot glue ) worked good until some of the paint came off the dent, now doesn’t stick very well, and doesn’t work at all on primer or bare metal.
Just orderd a stud gun type dent puller kit, will be here in a week or so, it’s a stronger system to pull dents, just sand the paint off, shoot an attachment ring onto the metal and use the dent puller to pull the dent. In the old days you drilled a hole for a screw, and the panel looked like Swiss cheese when done. To get the attachment off, just twist it. I’ll get the trim glue off while I’m waiting.
 
Top