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Thiokol 601

My 601 has a 223 ci ford motor that now needs rebuild. By chance would anyone have a 262 ci ford -6 around. It’s found in medium duty fords in the early 60s.
That’s a huge bummer, sorry about your luck! Out of curiosity, what happened to the motor? They’re a very strong engine. my first car was a 72 maverick in the early 90’s with the 258-6 in her. Well over 300k miles…that engine was the best! Keep us posted with lots of pictures. We love pictures….
 
Thanks. Yea. Summiting mt Howard will put any machine to the test I think. Lots of switchbacks which our brake steer cats don’t love, followed by a long straight climb to the top. That era of ford engines had oiling issues to begin with, I’m pretty sure I spun one or two rod bearings on that climb because I was in 1st gear and pushing 3200 rpm the entire time. And my oil pressure went from 40 psi to 5. There’s no turnouts or wide spots on that climb till near the top either so I had to keep grinding my way up. It still runs, it’s just rattles and knocks pretty bad. So it’s got to get a overhaul regardless.
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I got a spare 240 engine for my 601 from an old New Holland baler. Being from a piece of equipment rather than one of the light duty Ford pickups of the era means it is the industrial version. Not sure what the differences between the 223/262 and the 240 would be, but expanding your search to old farm equipment might yield the desired result. Mine was free since the baler was basically useless and destined for scrap, though the engine was a good runner when removed.
 
I got a spare 240 engine for my 601 from an old New Holland baler. Being from a piece of equipment rather than one of the light duty Ford pickups of the era means it is the industrial version. Not sure what the differences between the 223/262 and the 240 would be, but expanding your search to old farm equipment might yield the desired result. Mine was free since the baler was basically useless and destined for scrap, though the engine was a good runner when removed.
definitely a 240/ 300 Ford would be the gold standard. Unfortunately the bellhousing are different and I need a 4 speed with the brake band on the tail shaft. The np435s found on the back of the 300s don’t have this as the vehicles by that time went to e brakes in the wheel drums. I thought about the farm equipment route because we have an old Heston Swather on the ranch in the scrap pile with a good 225 slant six. But measuring everything out, it’s too wide for the engine bay in the 601.
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What year is your 601? I was under the impression that they all got the 240 (military spec) or the 300 (civilian spec), though given the parts-bin nature of their construction who knows. I have so far been unable to positively ID the engine model in mine from the data plate and since the cat is a 4hr drive away I can't use physical clues on the engine to ID it, but have always assumed it was either a 240 or a 300.
 
What year is your 601? I was under the impression that they all got the 240 (military spec) or the 300 (civilian spec), though given the parts-bin nature of their construction who knows. I have so far been unable to positively ID the engine model in mine from the data plate and since the cat is a 4hr drive away I can't use physical clues on the engine to ID it, but have always assumed it was either a 240 or a 300.
Mine is a 63 or 1964.. the 223 has the intake and exhaust on the drivers side. The 240 has the intake and exhaust on the passenger side. The 240 wasnt produced by by ford until 1964 which probably means it wasnt available till 1965.
 
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Thanks. Yea. Summiting mt Howard will put any machine to the test I think. Lots of switchbacks which our brake steer cats don’t love, followed by a long straight climb to the top. That era of ford engines had oiling issues to begin with, I’m pretty sure I spun one or two rod bearings on that climb because I was in 1st gear and pushing 3200 rpm the entire time. And my oil pressure went from 40 psi to 5. There’s no turnouts or wide spots on that climb till near the top either so I had to keep grinding my way up. It still runs, it’s just rattles and knocks pretty bad. So it’s got to get a overhaul regardless.View attachment 173688
This just showed up on ksl.com. No details on the engine specifics. I'm not certain by any means, but that engine looks like the Ford 300 I-6 and it comes with the full bell housing and transmission setup.

 
This just showed up on ksl.com. No details on the engine specifics. I'm not certain by any means, but that engine looks like the Ford 300 I-6 and it comes with the full bell housing and transmission setup.

Dang! What a setup! That transmission looks interesting with the hydrostatic reverse. It is the 240/300 engine as well. Thank you so much for the heads up. Definitely need to consider this.
 
Did you ever finish your Engine swap?! The 240/300 i6 with the NP435 has a brake drum on the tailshaft. at least it does in my Nodwell FN60 that was equipped with the 240 from factory
 
I have a Thiokol 601B RangeMaster and a spare one for parts. I have owned them for about 40 years and at one time stripped the usable one down to the last nut and bolt. I can tell you a LOT. Early on I counted ~15 601B thiokols in the state (They are the ultimate hunting/off road rig.) Years have passed and people have passed leaving me with some parts that I needed that are made from UNOBTANIUM (un available or findable). however the major components are able to be found out on the open market if you knew where to look.
Tracks and Grousers-Unobtanium.
Drive Sprockets- FallLine Manufacturing Reno Nevada.
Rear End-Only the OC15 was used from Oliver tractor- Unobtanium.
Steering Slave cylinders-OTC Powerpacks available at most hydraulic stores.
Transmission-Ford 4-speed (Got mine from a UPS delivery truck as a complete replacement powerpack).
Engine-Original was a ford 240 in line six, mine came from above as a ford in line 300 six.
Radiator -I found the right one at Modine radiators.
Axels-Pryor Axel, horse trailer #2500, a common weak point as the spindles kept breaking off, replaced with a #3500 and still lost a few next will be to cut off the axel stub and weld a small flange to it and a mating flange to the stub shaft for easy replacement in the field.
Wheels- Horse trailer or farm implement wheels, (Get the heavier ones that don't bend as easily).
 

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A little information on tires, the front tire is the very hardest to replace as you need to split the track. usually I have found that a stick or something poked its way thru the rubber sidewall or rarely the tread. When I rebuilt my RangeMaster I bought 10 new rims and 10 new tires. I had the tire shop mount them as tubeless but then had an innertube installed with the stem oriented to the stem hole but then abandoned there. they were aghast and didn't want to do it saying that it wouldn't balance! I don't know about others but I usually travel in 3rd gear and with the gear reduction of the OC15 at 23-1 that tops out at around 20mph so no problem. it goes like this, you get a flat, you pull out the foreign material and use a pair of pliers to rip out the rubber tubeless stem and fish the tube stem up through the hole and inflate it. Presto you are back in business! After I came upwith that ALL the rigs up on the North Slope (Mostly Nodwells) did the same, everyone wonders why they didn't think of it before.
 
Does anyone know where NEW grousers ar being made? I will be trying to make my own 601B grousers on a press but I need to build a die for the press that will press out blanks (1" square steel tubing) then weld in a piece of 1/4 round that the tires will ride on and finally a wear strip across the top. I will need to jig a holepress for locating the 4 bolts on each end. a lot of work, if I could find a die or its actual dimensions that would be extremely helpful also the process (Heated first? to what temp before pressing? quenching?) as you can see it will be time and experiment consuming so any helpful knowledge would be appreciated. Not sure if I can post my phone number or e-mail even though I have read and reread the rules.
 
Last time i saw new 601 grousers i was in Massachusetts looking at a couple of snowcats of which one was for sale. The owner was jeff and he was on the western end of mass. There was a pallet of them. So yes someone knows the recipe.

Might be best to start a new threaded area for 601 parts and your knowledge. I have a project 601 and i am in the proces of putting new bearings in a oc15
 
Last time i saw new 601 grousers i was in Massachusetts looking at a couple of snowcats of which one was for sale. The owner was jeff and he was on the western end of mass. There was a pallet of them. So yes someone knows the recipe.

Might be best to start a new threaded area for 601 parts and your knowledge. I have a project 601 and i am in the proces of putting new bearings in a oc15
Can I list my number here? I want to talk with you.
 
I have a Thiokol 601B RangeMaster and a spare one for parts. I have owned them for about 40 years and at one time stripped the usable one down to the last nut and bolt. I can tell you a LOT. Early on I counted ~15 601B thiokols in the state (They are the ultimate hunting/off road rig.) Years have passed and people have passed leaving me with some parts that I needed that are made from UNOBTANIUM (un available or findable). however the major components are able to be found out on the open market if you knew where to look.
Tracks and Grousers-Unobtanium.
Drive Sprockets- FallLine Manufacturing Reno Nevada.
Rear End-Only the OC15 was used from Oliver tractor- Unobtanium.
Steering Slave cylinders-OTC Powerpacks available at most hydraulic stores.
Transmission-Ford 4-speed (Got mine from a UPS delivery truck as a complete replacement powerpack).
Engine-Original was a ford 240 in line six, mine came from above as a ford in line 300 six.
Radiator -I found the right one at Modine radiators.
Axels-Pryor Axel, horse trailer #2500, a common weak point as the spindles kept breaking off, replaced with a #3500 and still lost a few next will be to cut off the axel stub and weld a small flange to it and a mating flange to the stub shaft for easy replacement in the field.
Wheels- Horse trailer or farm implement wheels, (Get the heavier ones that don't bend as easily).
Great looking Trac Rig
 
Does anyone know where NEW grousers ar being made? I will be trying to make my own 601B grousers on a press but I need to build a die for the press that will press out blanks (1" square steel tubing) then weld in a piece of 1/4 round that the tires will ride on and finally a wear strip across the top. I will need to jig a holepress for locating the 4 bolts on each end. a lot of work, if I could find a die or its actual dimensions that would be extremely helpful also the process (Heated first? to what temp before pressing? quenching?) as you can see it will be time and experiment consuming so any helpful knowledge would be appreciated. Not sure if I can post my phone number or e-mail even though I have read and reread the rules.
I contacted Fall Line a while ago about new tracks and the price was... exorbitant. It broke down to about 200 per grouser. It wasn't for a 601, but the price of tracks was almost exactly 10 times the price of the machine. I ended up just buying a couple parts tracks and scavenging. I ended up changing a few aspects of the track and re-drilling every single grouser.
 
I called fallline today and they had just received my drive sprockets for reconditioning. i asked about grousers and they are NOT a resource for that. it seems that they are still unobtainium.
 
It is my understanding that grousers have been NLA for a long time, except maybe for some random folks who have built their own. I'm going to need a full set eventually, I've been working on designing a set of press dies to make them, but haven't gotten beyond the design stage since I'm still a few years out from needing them. Also having a somewhat difficult time finding a source for 1-1/4" half oval steel stock for the tire guide portion.
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The belting holes will probably have to just be drilled rather than punched like on the factory grousers. Also planning on putting a couple of beads of hardfacing along the outer surface of the flat wear bar to limit wear when running on hard surfaces.
 
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