OTB-Bombi! Let the Jury Begin

[OTB]

Well, just send the 2.3 l Ford off to The Machinist and now I'm rebuilding the automatic transmission!

 

[alryA]

Gee, I have zero idea how to do that!

 

[OTB]

Rebuilding certain automatic transmissions are pretty straightforward. I've already rebuild a Ford C6, which was super easy, and I've heard C4's are also pretty easy.

I have to say though, this one (JATCO 3N71B) seems way easier then even the C6!

 

[Bobcatbob]

That is something you put on your tombstone “rebuilt automatic transmission”...a man‘s man! An engine, no problem, but an automatic transmission....”here’s my wallet, take what you think you need” to my tranny rebuilder.

 

[OTB]

Well, tranny is almost done and some of the motor parts are painted. Just waiting for the mechine shop and the power train will be ready to rock!

 

[PJL]

Looking forward to seeing what color of the rainbow you don't use on this build.

 

[ezroller]

Hello OTB! Welcome to the Forum. You work fast! You might even have yours slapped back together before me

 

[OTB]

Well, uncovered a huge amount of rust and I have to say.....getting a little worried!

 

[alryA]

OTB, your photos are quite large and some folks will not open them, because of that. Do you have the ability to reduce them?

 

[Snowy Rivers]

Rust is always a concern.
Can you cut out the bad stuff and graft in new material ???

 

[Bobcatbob]

I agree with Snowy, cut out and weld in some heavier than stock sheet metal (reinforce around axles). If to far gone, give MN Outdoors a call...might have a frame.

 

[OTB]

Rust is always a concern.
Can you cut out the bad stuff and graft in new material ???

I have found so much, I think I am just going to start from scratch. And replace almost everything.....maybe

OTB, your photos are quite large and some folks will not open them, because of that. Do you have the ability to reduce them?

I will try and reload them. Sorry about that!

 

[Snowy Rivers]

I feel your pain.....
I went through the rust thing myself....But it was inside the differential that had filled up with water and ruined all the bearings.

In looking at the piccy's it does look like the frame is pretty sad..

Was the machine just sitting in the elements ????

Almost looks like a serious attack of "Salt poisoning"

 

[OTB]

I feel your pain.....
I went through the rust thing myself....But it was inside the differential that had filled up with water and ruined all the bearings.

In looking at the piccy's it does look like the frame is pretty sad..

Was the machine just sitting in the elements ????

Almost looks like a serious attack of "Salt poisoning"

Well, the fella I bought it from had it inside I think and tried to take care of it, but the previous owners to him really let it go. The frame I think could be saved, but with all the time I'll have into it, I think I am just going to start from scratch.

This is by fare the worst rust I have ever dealt with. Just crazy!

 

[Snowy Rivers]

If you have enough good metal so you can copy the parts for patterns your set.
Any places that have cracks you can figure out where the stress risers were and make things better....

Good luck....Not always the destination.....but it's the journey that counts......

 

[OTB]

If you have enough good metal so you can copy the parts for patterns your set.
Any places that have cracks you can figure out where the stress risers were and make things better....

Good luck....Not always the destination.....but it's the journey that counts......

Yes sir! Well, the jury's back in the verdict is in!

Literally starting from the frame and going to go all the way out!

On a comical note, I posted a video on Facebook last night about how much rust was on this machine.

The next day I called Minnesota Outdoors to check on some parts and the guy that I spoke to on the phone said, "Are you the guy that posted the video on Facebook about all the rust?"

I told him I was and asked him what his professional opinion was of my mess. He told me that it's probably one of the worst ones he's seen as far as rust goes! .....

I'm just glad that at least I'm number one in something!!!!

I'll keep you guys posted on my progress!

 

[Bobcatbob]

“The next day I called Minnesota Outdoors to check on some parts and the guy that I spoke to on the phone said, "Are you the guy that posted the video on Facebook about all the rust?" “

If you spoke with Brad, he‘s seen it all. He’s the Patriarch of anything Bombardier..

Keep up the great work!

Bob

 

[Snowy Rivers]

Looking forward to seeing all the nitty gritty details.

One thing's for sure....When you get it all done you will have a great machine....and you will know it INTIMATELY....
There will be no surprises later when you do not need them......"Way out in the sticks in the cold"

 

[OTB]

Sub frame welded up and the rear slider for the track adjustment works and is straight!

 

[OTB]

Well, got the diff in place and the brackets welded on and it's SQUARE!!!!.......I think

 

[OTB]

Hey fellas, so a buddy of mine is trying to get ahold of someone at Minnesota Outdoors. He's been trying for the last 3 weeks but has been unable to reach anyone. Does anybody know anything on this? Thanks fellas!

 

[ezroller]

I had such a hard time getting responses from people at Minnesota outdoors that I gave up and started finding other sources for bombi stuff. ? multiple unresponded to email and calls. Good luck. Hopefully everything is all good with them.

 

[Snowy Rivers]

Well, got the diff in place and the brackets welded on and it's SQUARE!!!!.......I think

Looks great......
Most of the stuff is pretty forgiving as far as square.....The axles, bogies and such don't have to be super tight tolerances...

The alignment of the drive shaft and U joint angle are fairly critical to give smooth operation.
Does the cat have a single piece drive shaft from the tranny to the diffy ???
Just make sure to keep the angles on the joints equal on both ends....Unless there are CV type joints in the shaft.
Try real hard to make sure you do not end up with compound angles on the shaft......Shake rattle and roll will happen if you are not pretty close.
Crankshaft centerline and the diffy centerline need to be parallel.... (Looking from the side) ...then you can set the engine height to get your angle on the shaft.
Also the line from the pinion shaft through the crank looking from the top down needs to be straight too.

Since you are building basically from scratch and not just repairing/cleaning and such.....pay attention to these points and kitty will run smooth

Good luck....fun fun fun.......

 

[OTB]

The Ford 2.3 liter is going back together for the cat! Finally!

 

[Alaska Snow Cat]

Most of the stuff is pretty forgiving as far as square.....The axles, bogies and such don't have to be super tight tolerances...

I would tend to disagree on the above comment especially with the Bombi. Probably because it is such a short machine the Bombi doesn't like to drive very strait unless everything is nice and strait and the axels are set to the correct angle. Each axel is a drop axel has a different angle they are suppose to be at and the rear axels are shorter with a different part number. Worn or bent axels, rims or tires will cause the Bombi to steer poorly. I have found this to be true in even the bigger cats and if you spend any amount of time in one you will want them to steer strait.

Nice work and best of luck.

 

[Snowy Rivers]

I stand corrected.
The Thiokols I have run over the years were very forgiving.
I do agree...the shorter machines can be more fussy......
Like a sightly tighter track on one side will cause the machine to pull to one side.


Maybe I should make my statement a tad more clear.
A tiny error May not cause a big issue....Drive shaft angle error will shake you outta the cab.
AND ruin U JOINTS really quick.....

 

[OTB]

Ok guys, I finally got some vacation and started working on this thing again. Any one know what kind of and angle the pinion sits on?

I am pretty sure it's an upward angle and the motor is at the same degree going downward chords the pinion so that they are on the same degree angle to prevent massive vibration. I know that I can fudge this a little bit as I'm putting a different motor in it and can adjust it from there.

I just would like to stay close to the original angle if I can. If not, no biggie! Right......

Thanks!!!!

 

[OTB]

Here's some pictures with an angle indicator attached to it. The first picture is of the bottom of the skid plate. It is almost dead level oh, but it is off 1 degree.

The other picture is of the pinion. It appears that it's two or three degrees in the right direction oh, but I think it probably needs to go a couple more. What do you guys think?

 

[western auto]

Here's some pictures with an angle indicator attached to it. The first picture is of the bottom of the skid plate. It is almost dead level oh, but it is off 1 degree.

The other picture is of the pinion. It appears that it's two or three degrees in the right direction oh, but I think it probably needs to go a couple more. What do you guys think?

with a regular driveline pinion angle should mirror trans output angle...... 2up pinion 2deg down trans

 

[OTB]

Doing a suspension update. Going to put some different type torsion axles with closed hubs and 4.80 x 12 with 5 on 4.5 lugged wheels.



Got the frame roughed in and narrowed! Narrowed by 3 1/2 inches. Now, just need to spot weld and double check and triple check measurements! Then going to lengthen the frame by approximately 8 inches!