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Finally fixed the AC

NorthernRedneck

NorthernRedneck

Well-known member
So the ac in my 2017 ford f150 stopped working about 4 years ago. I never bothered to get it fixed as I was thinking it would need a new compressor which would mean draining the system. If I'm draining the system anyways I may as well do the evaporator etc etc = $$$. I'm too cheap and rolling down the window is easier so I never got it fixed until now. We're using it to haul the fifth wheel out west for 3 weeks this summer and ac would be nice.

I got to thinking about it and discovered that you can change just the clutch on the compressor without draining the system for a third the cost of doing it the other way.

I talked to my neighbor who is a mechanic at the local shop and he said he has done a few of them and it's common so I booked it in for this week (along with getting a couple tranny lines changed). I ordered the clutch on Amazon for $76 vs $275 for a new compressor and had him install it. It's now working.

The issue was multiplied as my wife has a 2018 ford expedition. Same driveline. Same ac system. Hers kicked off last summer as well around the same mileage as when mine stopped. So I just ordered another clutch kit for hers as well. Start with the cheapest solution.
 
bczoom said:
Yea, next time buy a Chevy. ;)
I've never had problems like what you're encountering. My sister just dumped her F150 as it too had multiple problems.
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Most 2017 chevys up here are driving around looking for their rocker panels and fenders. I saw an ad last week for a 2014 chevy selling for scrap as the frame was rusted. Mine still looks like new. I've had chevy in the past for many years and changed many front wheel bearings that blew without warning in that time. My ford hasn't been perfect by any means but has given me less problems overall compared to my previous gm products. And don't get me started on dodge. My two buddies at camp with dodges newer than mine were chirping about my ford then one blew his engine at 40k and the other his tranny at 60k. I'm sitting at 200k original driveline.
 
NorthernRedneck said:
Most 2017 chevys up here are driving around looking for their rocker panels and fenders. I saw an ad last week for a 2014 chevy selling for scrap as the frame was rusted. Mine still looks like new. I've had chevy in the past for many years and changed many front wheel bearings that blew without warning in that time. My ford hasn't been perfect by any means but has given me less problems overall compared to my previous gm products. And don't get me started on dodge. My two buddies at camp with dodges newer than mine were chirping about my ford then one blew his engine at 40k and the other his tranny at 60k. I'm sitting at 200k original driveline.
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None of the major three American trucks are what they used to be. For the record I have 400 K on my 1995 Dodge one ton.
Only thing I have replaced it the clutch, oil pressure sending unit, and the damn alternator
Yes, it is beginning to show rust on the door and fenders. I have new ones in storage.
Cummins with a stick shift.
 
As far as I'm concerned they all have problems, and the newer they get the more problematic they are becoming. I know several people now who got into brand new vehicles maybe 10 years ago and they all say they feel like they are trapped because they have so many issues that they don't want to own the vehicles off of warranty so keep buying new when the warranty is done. My ford f150 is in the shop again possibly for cam phasers, had them done 3 years ago but it only had 2 years warranty on the work. Debating what to do, fix again or put in a new motor, can't afford to buy a different truck, new motor is around 10 grand. I long for the days of the mid 90's to early 2000's Fords, they were pretty solid.

Those of you who don't have to deal with road salt for 6 months of the year and-40 don't know how much fun you're missing 😉
 
Kevlar said:
As far as I'm concerned they all have problems, and the newer they get the more problematic they are becoming. I know several people now who got into brand new vehicles maybe 10 years ago and they all say they feel like they are trapped because they have so many issues that they don't want to own the vehicles off of warranty so keep buying new when the warranty is done. My ford f150 is in the shop again possibly for cam phasers, had them done 3 years ago but it only had 2 years warranty on the work. Debating what to do, fix again or put in a new motor, can't afford to buy a different truck, new motor is around 10 grand. I long for the days of the mid 90's to early 2000's Fords, they were pretty solid.

Those of you who don't have to deal with road salt for 6 months of the year and-40 don't know how much fun you're missing 😉
Click to expand...

This exactly! When it comes to salt, I've had dodge gmc and ford. They all rust. But as far as the new ones go, I see gms and dodges less than 8 years old running around with the paint peeling off them and holes in the rockers big enough to put a fist through. I figure the best bet up here is ford with the aluminum body panels as long as you stay on top of the frames so they don't rust. I coat my frame with asphalt undercoating every summer to keep it front rotting.
 
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Just picked up a first gen dodge w250 with the Cummins, auto trans with OD, got it for a mountain truck, tired of $350.00 trips to the mountain in the 73 power wagon. It’s a decent old truck with 185,000 miles already fixed a few items, but the AC needs to be charged also. There are plenty of R12 kits on EBay if I can remember how to do it.
 
IMG_2950.jpeg
 
May be someone next time could try using this method to fix it.:D:D

1.Unplug the high-voltage plug and low-voltage plug of the air conditioning compressor.

2. Check the insulation of the high-voltage system:

1) Adjust the insulation meter to the 500V/1000V range. It depends on the vehicle's high-voltage system. If the vehicle has a system below 500V, use the 500V range; if it is a 500-1000V system, use the 1000V range.

2) Connect the positive pole of the insulation meter to one end of the compressor's high-voltage connector, and the negative pole to the housing. As shown in the figure, the measured value should be >550MΩ. The specified insulation value varies with different vehicle models, generally 500Ω/V. For example, if the vehicle has a 400V system, the minimum should be 20MΩ, but the specific value should refer to the definition of the vehicle manufacturer. If the insulation value is lower than this value, it indicates a compressor failure, and it is recommended to replace the compressor.​
图片1.png

**Note**: The low-voltage system does not need to be tested for insulation. The instantaneous output voltage of the insulation meter is very high, which will damage the low-voltage system circuit.

3. Check whether the positive and negative poles of the high-voltage connector are short-circuited, as shown in the figure. A short circuit indicates damage to the compressor circuit, and it is recommended to replace the compressor; no short circuit indicates normal, and then proceed to the next step.
图片2.png


4. Check the IGBT and motor of the air conditioning compressor control board.

It is determined by measuring the voltage drop between the positive and negative poles of the high-voltage connector. Adjust the multimeter to the diode range. The positive pole of the multimeter touches the negative high-voltage terminal, and the negative pole touches the positive high-voltage terminal. If there is a normal voltage drop, it can be confirmed that the compressor IGBT and motor are basically normal, as shown in the left figure (the right figure is the air conditioning compressor control board).

图片3.png
图片4.png

5. The scroll disc of the air conditioning compressor is prone to damage, and the characteristic of damage is abnormal noise (the right figure is the damaged scroll disc).
图片5.png
图片6.png


The main reasons for the damage of the air conditioning compressor scroll include excessive moisture, excessive impurities, oil shortage or insufficient lubrication, motor damage, liquid hammer, high-temperature burnout, etc.

6. Compressor stator damage. The main reasons for stator damage include burned motor coils, poor condenser heat dissipation, exhaust valve leakage, stator winding insulation layer damage (short circuit) and open circuit.

图片7.png
图片8.png

The following figure shows the rotor (left figure) and rotor coil (right figure):
**Note**: Before disassembling and inspecting the air conditioning compressor, the refrigerant inside should be recovered. After the inspection is completed and installed, the refrigerant inside should be refilled. Due to different vehicle models, the filling amount refers to the maintenance manual of the corresponding vehicle model.
 
The compressor itself was fine and the system was still charged. The ac clutch is what failed which is a common issue apparently. It's easier and less money to replace just the clutch without draining the system. That's what engages the compressor.
 
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