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Yup, Amsoil in my car

buy_25

buy_25

Banned
Well today I pulled of the front cover on my ES300; wife was gone with the little guy so I had some free time (thank god!)

Been doing 10,000 to 12,000+ mile oil drain intervals using Amsoil’s ASL oil. The kicker is this is a sludge prone engine based on Lexus. Pix look pretty good!

Here are some pix:

http://home.comcast.net/~sump/car_valve/clear_shot.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~sump/car_valve/clear_shot_close.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~sump/car_valve/valve_cover2.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~sump/car_valve/valve_cover.jpg

Comments etc just post them. Figured I would share this since everyone comments on long drains, sludge issue etc. Just installed a new OEM valve cover gasket $11.21 and new Ultra Black RTV
biggrin.gif


Going to wait 24, to dry, then we are done. Total time was about 1 hour & ($15.58 total price for parts).
 
Did you actually just pull the covers off a perfectly functioning engine just for the purpose of admiring the lack of sludge that your oil of choice has?

Or was there a proble of some kind you needed to get in there to repair? Was the old gasket leaking?
 
DaveNay said:
Did you actually just pull the covers off a perfectly functioning engine just for the purpose of admiring the lack of sludge that your oil of choice has?

Or was there a proble of some kind you needed to get in there to repair? Was the old gasket leaking?
Click to expand...

Yup, since when people complain about sludge or this and that. Plus these years (1997 to 2002) have an issue of leaking and sludhe; mine was ok. I even have letter from lexus about sludge in these years.

I just HAD to know if there was sludge etc. But based on oil testing there was not. But being Polish, I had to know!!!!! :) Also the dealer wanted over $120 to fix just the front gasket!!!!

So to close, when people compain about longer drains and synthetics you can do it and be 100% ok. just figured I would share it. Hell, the $16 was well worth it just to know.....
 
I need a new headgasket in my E320....... Want to do it and you can take all the pictures of the sludge that you want.......... Junk..... :D
 
Junkman said:
I need a new headgasket in my E320....... Want to do it and you can take all the pictures of the sludge that you want.......... Junk..... :D
Click to expand...

so you bought a Mercedes? Typical...
 
I think I am missing something here but why is there such a big deal about oil? You put it in, when it needs changing you change it. The engine is likely to outlast whatever it is in anyway, most cars down the yard run, just the bodywork is rusted away.

PS, Mike, your avatar exactly matches the music I am listening to, odd......
 
buy_25 said:
so you bought a Mercedes? Typical...
Click to expand...

I have owned them since 1964 when I purchased my first one. I believe that to be 10 years before you were born...... :yum:
 
With several auto warranty companies, synthetic oil is required in the Toyota (Lexus) 3.0 liter engine and the Chrysler 2.7 liter engine. Those engines have an engineering defect that allows certain areas of the engine to super heat engine oil in some of the oil passages. With regular petroleum oil, that super heating causes the oil to begin to break down into separate parts. Part of oil becomes a sort of dirty Vaseline that hardens. That in turn clogs those oil passages, and there goes the engine. Even if the engine continues to operate with several of the oil passages completely clogged, the "gelling" will clog the pickup screen in the oil pan. At that point, even the most hardy engine drops dead.

Synthetic oil does not exhibit the same vulnerability to the gelling condition as conventional motor oil. Not changing conventional oil on a regular basis as recommended only exacerbates the problem. In theory, this property of synthetic oil along with synthetic's superior (and, more expensive) additive packages make it possible for extended oil drain times. Mike is more of a believer in extended oil drains than I am, but I have seen plenty of emperical data that proves beyond a reasonable doubt that true synthetic oil is superior to conventional motor oil. My issue with extended oil drain intervals in general is that if people go 10k miles instead of 3k with their conventional oil, they will go 50k rather than 15k with synthetic oil. In each of these basically abusive conditions, your oil is no longer providing much lubrication for your engine.
 
Junkman said:
I have owned them since 1964 when I purchased my first one. I believe that to be 10 years before you were born...... :yum:
Click to expand...

Junk, my now retired business partner put over 600k miles on a late 80 something (year of manufacturer) diesel Mercedes car. I know he was not regular with his maintenance. I think it had some 5 cylinder diesel in it?
 
Mith said:
I think I am missing something here but why is there such a big deal about oil? You put it in, when it needs changing you change it. The engine is likely to outlast whatever it is in anyway, most cars down the yard run, just the bodywork is rusted away.

PS, Mike, your avatar exactly matches the music I am listening to, odd......
Click to expand...

True but I go but what oil testing tells me not the manual..:thumb:
 
Junkman said:
I have owned them since 1964 when I purchased my first one. I believe that to be 10 years before you were born...... :yum:
Click to expand...

that is great, what that means I have no idea....:applause:
 
Dargo said:
With several auto warranty companies, synthetic oil is required in the Toyota (Lexus) 3.0 liter engine and the Chrysler 2.7 liter engine. Those engines have an engineering defect that allows certain areas of the engine to super heat engine oil in some of the oil passages. With regular petroleum oil, that super heating causes the oil to begin to break down into separate parts. Part of oil becomes a sort of dirty Vaseline that hardens. That in turn clogs those oil passages, and there goes the engine. Even if the engine continues to operate with several of the oil passages completely clogged, the "gelling" will clog the pickup screen in the oil pan. At that point, even the most hardy engine drops dead.

Synthetic oil does not exhibit the same vulnerability to the gelling condition as conventional motor oil. Not changing conventional oil on a regular basis as recommended only exacerbates the problem. In theory, this property of synthetic oil along with synthetic's superior (and, more expensive) additive packages make it possible for extended oil drain times. Mike is more of a believer in extended oil drains than I am, but I have seen plenty of emperical data that proves beyond a reasonable doubt that true synthetic oil is superior to conventional motor oil. My issue with extended oil drain intervals in general is that if people go 10k miles instead of 3k with their conventional oil, they will go 50k rather than 15k with synthetic oil. In each of these basically abusive conditions, your oil is no longer providing much lubrication for your engine.
Click to expand...

So far, based on oil testing it is better. I posted this topic since I am very tired about people talking about oil is oil, etc. Mostly on the KBY network or cheap people.

I can't comment on the 50K vs 15K since I have seen oil tests over 50K miles that are better then mine..

Can it (synthetic) go longer, yup. It blows the bottom line off rotella. Where is cowboyass when you want him!
:tiphat::tiphat::tiphat:
 
buy_25 said:
So far, based on oil testing it is better. I posted this topic since I am very tired about people talking about oil is oil, etc. Mostly on the KBY network or cheap people. :tiphat::tiphat::tiphat:
Click to expand...

If you're that tired of the topic, why bring it up here for potentially another group to argue with you?
 
OhioTC18 said:
If you're that tired of the topic, why bring it up here for potentially another group to argue with you?
Click to expand...

who is arguing? you? I thought this forum was more open minded. :whistle: and at a higher level then others. :eek:

maybe we should have a forum/thread on it. Called put up or shut up...:a1::a1::a1:
 
DaveNay said:
Musta thought we cared or something. :pat:
Click to expand...

So are you saying this forum is at the same level as KBN? I hope not....

I am sharing what I have found out first hand. Cared, nope. Most will not even buy a group 4 or above since the cost is too great; hence to cheap to buy it.

Dont worry I know you do not care. I feel the same way with other topics/etc.............
 
***** Been doing 10,000 to 12,000+ mile oil drain*****
Are you sure thats wise?

***** Going to wait 24, to dry, then we are done*****
The stuff I buy sets up quicker

*****Also the dealer wanted over $120 to fix just the front gasket!!!!*****
I would have let him

*****
It means that I can play the LBrown59 game with you*****
I see someone finally learned the game

***** I like chocolate ice cream, too*****
Although I prefer chocolate, sometimes vanilla is okay too


I just wondered if you guys were lonely yet?
 
Oil is oil. Like Mith said, you put it in. He lost me on the part about changing it when it needs to be changed. To select oil, go to the local conenience store, move aside the expensive stuff (usually Havoline) and find the cheap stuff (usually something like Apex). You're safe doing this, because oil is oil, and it never wears out. The proof of this is that any oil works better than no oil at all.
 
OkeeDon said:
Oil is oil. Like Mith said, you put it in. He lost me on the part about changing it when it needs to be changed. To select oil, go to the local conenience store, move aside the expensive stuff (usually Havoline) and find the cheap stuff (usually something like Apex). You're safe doing this, because oil is oil, and it never wears out. The proof of this is that any oil works better than no oil at all.
Click to expand...

Oil is not oil! Oil is dead dinosaurs! As a faithful democrat (HA!) I feel that we should not use oil so that we can save the dinosaurs. We are obviously destroying their habitat, and squishing them into thick black stuff.

I am going to go climb a tree now in protest of this practice.
 
DaveNay said:
Oil is not oil! Oil is dead dinosaurs!
Click to expand...
Don't worry Dave. Dino oil doesn't really come from dinosaurs so you can come down from that tree (if you can see your monitor from up there to see this)
 
OkeeDon said:
Oil is oil. Like Mith said, you put it in. He lost me on the part about changing it when it needs to be changed. To select oil, go to the local conenience store, move aside the expensive stuff (usually Havoline) and find the cheap stuff (usually something like Apex). You're safe doing this, because oil is oil, and it never wears out. The proof of this is that any oil works better than no oil at all.
Click to expand...

sounds like a KBN memeber or a walfart shopper. :yum::yum::yum:
 
OhioTC18 said:
***** Been doing 10,000 to 12,000+ mile oil drain*****
Are you sure thats wise?
Yup, based on the pix and years of oil testing?

*****[/b] Going to wait 24, to dry, then we are done*****
The stuff I buy sets up quicker
Great, it dries in 1 hour but full cures in 24.

*****Also the dealer wanted over $120 to fix just the front gasket!!!!*****
I would have let him
Great! I do not feel like pissing money away. I could buy 2 coral for my reef tank for that.

*****
It means that I can play the LBrown59 game with you*****
I see someone finally learned the game

if it makes you happy :thumb:

***** I like chocolate ice cream, too*****
Although I prefer chocolate, sometimes vanilla is okay too
Click to expand...
 
buy_25 said:
sounds like a KBN memeber or a walfart shopper. :yum::yum::yum:
Click to expand...

Psssst. Don is :poke: you. You are supposed to say that you use oil you get used from Walmart's service department for a reply.
 
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