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Tucker 2000 engine pre-heat button?

D

Deermont

New member
We have a tucker 2000 year 2000 Snocat and cannot locate the glowplug button on the console. If it came with this option from Tucker, where would the button/switch be located on the console? Thanks in advance.:unsure:
 
if it is a p-pumped industrial engine I'm betting it doesn't have a pre heater if you have the vp44 pump engine preheat should be automatic you will have a wait to start light come on
 
Thanks for the replies. We were told by a past operator that this machine had a push button pre-heat system but we have tried all the momentary buttons on the console with no results. We installed a propane tank heater but it takes at least an hour to heat the cylinder head.
From all indications, this Cummins 6bt is a very hard starting cold engine. Don:unsure:
 
send me a picture of the injection pump so I know what style engine you have an eather injection system would be one answer I have started mine as low as -50 with an injection system I disabled it when I moved to nome the canisters cost way too much out here in the bush I just use a generator on the block heater now also consider changing the oil to 5w40 synthetic. my ve pumped 6-b will start at temp as low as 0 with out the pre heater enabled if you have the vp 44 system they tend to be cold blooded.
 
Our 1991 has an ether system. we will have a plug in block heater where it's stored.. ought to be just fine. we'll find out.

One option.. and one I put on my old mercedes was an 'espar' heater. worked great.. burned a tiny bit of diesel. would heat the motor right up. you could program it to go off every morning at a certain time.. or you could push the button on demand. maybe 20 minutes and everything would be hot.

JP
 
engine pre heat is always better than starting cold and the espar heaters might be expensive but would be a good investment for the life of the motor. my 6b in my pu was new in 89 and has lived a hard life some times having to start cold a long ways from heat. before I started using synthetic there were times I would have to start cold than shut it off and let the combustion heat soak in or run a coleman stove under the oil pan a while so it would pick up oil. my 380 ford has a 3000 watt tank heater installed now ( thank you Paul) it will bring the engine up to 150 degrees in about a half hour kind of makes things handy when I have to work on it in the cold. I would advise the use of a pre heater of some sort and if you still need to be able to start it away from support look into an either system it was those super cold starts with the one battery dodge supplied caused me to add either as the intake heater would heat and suck the battery's dry. our class 6 trucks all have 3 31 series battery's to start and my dodge now has 2
 
do not mix either with intake heaters if you are going to use 1 the other has to be disabled or things get real ugly.
 
I installed block heater loops on the 3208 in my suburban. Think it is a 1400 watt system. Got a Honda 2000 watt gen that is pretty light weight. Start the gen, plug in and give it half an hour. Just think of all the other uses for the gen when out in the back. I'm with Mr. Nome in that bringing the engine up to temp is a good thing for long life. The other trick is I have an accumulator which has a ball valve that I open before cranking the engine so it starts with L/O floating the crank and not waiting for the oil pump to do the job. You just have to remember to charge it back up before shutting down for the next start.
 
sno-drifter said:
The other trick is I have an accumulator which has a ball valve that I open before cranking the engine so it starts with L/O floating the crank and not waiting for the oil pump to do the job. You just have to remember to charge it back up before shutting down for the next start.
Click to expand...

Intresting, how big of accumulator 1 quart ? Where are you charging it from?oil sending unit port? I suppose a electric coil could be subsustuted instead of the ball valve making it automatic energised by the key
 
MNoutdoors said:
Intresting, how big of accumulator 1 quart ? Where are you charging it from?oil sending unit port? I suppose a electric coil could be subsustuted instead of the ball valve making it automatic energised by the key
Click to expand...


I am using a Moroso 3 1/2 quart http://www.moroso.com/eb/catalog/na...uctgroup.1100000&expand=true&menuId=main.menu

It is plumbed in downstream of the oil pump. The unit sits under the seat (pedestal type) so that the ball valve is down between the seats. I recharge it after starting so that I get the highest pressure due to cold oil.
 
My start up procedure is open ball valve, turn on ign and wait for the low oil pressure alarm to shut off or watch for max pressure, start engine. wait for oil pressure to hit 80psi, close ball valve.
 
https://qsol.cummins.com/qs3/pubsys2/xml/en/tsb/2011/tsb110102.html?q=6bt

(This is assuming that it is an industrial engine, not an automotive engine)

Aftercooler and Intake Air Heater
All 6B turbocharged and aftercooled industrial engines have been designed to accommodate an intake air heater. The heater will be the “grid style” and will be available in either 12 volt or 24 volt systems. The heater will help improve cold start cranking times and reduce white smoke after start-up. The length of the aftercooler has been shortened to allow the addition of the intake air heater with no increase engine height. A starting aid is mandatory on engines equipped with P3000 injection pumps.
NOTE: If an intake air heater is not ordered a spacer is used in its place at the time of production.

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I'm interested in a picture as well. The 6B/BT/BTA/BTAA was phased out in '98 (?) and replaced by the ISB. I can't imagine that Cummins still had 6BT's left to sell to anyone by 2000, automotive or industrial based. There was almost a $3000 increase in the cost of a school bus with the new motor compared to the old. At that time and everyone was ordering all that they could get of the 6BT before they were gone. ​
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The grid heater will automatically preheat when the key is turned to Ign/Acc/On. Check the see if it has a grid heater at all, or if it only has the spacer block mentioned above installed. Get the 8 digit engine serial number & I can give you better info of what it had.​
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Must be they continued on a little while in the industrial applications? Seems like they would have moved stock as necessary to get them out of the building in order to push the ISB.
 
OK guys - the engine is 6BTA #45829377
It has a Bosch injector pump but the model # is not readable.
Build sheet lists a Phillips ether system - but that system was removed at some time.
There are spacers -1/4 inch thick or so -under each injector cover
Thanks for the info. Don:neutral:
 
shoot me some pics of the pump I'm betting you have a vp44 which is an electronic controlled pump. the p-7100 pump will be an inline styled pump and the ve is a rotory pump looks like a pump off an old 6.2 diesel the p7100 and ve pump will have a cable or linkage to the throttle lever the vp 44 will be drive by wire all three pumps are made by bosch
 
the vp 44 is real sensitive to battery voltage on start up for cold opps you should have 3 batterys and your primer fluid injection hooked up there are no spacers under the valve covers there should the 6bta wont have a provision for a intake heater as the aftercooler is on top the intake and uses engine coolant to drop charge temp the 6b taa should have the aircooled after cooler
 
having nothing really to do with the current thread, I have a couple gensets that have a fairly unique manifold heater. A glow plug that when energized opens a wee valve and drips diesel on it , catching fire. let the fire rage in the manifold for a short time then crank. I've been told that method went out of favor in the early 30's.
 
Engine Parts Information ( 45829377 - 6B5.9)

Fuel pump is a P3000

Advertised HP: 185 @ 2500
Torque Peak (lb-ft): 549 @ 1500
High Idle: 2781
 

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The 6B does have a provision for a grid heater under the after cooler - at least this one does. First thing to check is part #9 to verify you still have a good ground. If good you will need to back track to the power solenoid (not provided by Cummins, so it's not shown on my end). If both are good it is quite possible the heater has crapped out which wasn't uncommon.

Heater Voltage: 12
Heater Amperage: 190
Studded cap screw 3920344 on #5 cylinder valve cover. Mounting location for ground wire is on stud on #5 valve cover.
 

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We have a new 6BTA Marine Cummins now and have had two older ones in a different boat. Great engines. In the fall temps get down below freezing. We used oil pan warmers. No glow plugs and motors would fire right off. This is what we use and where we got them. Tony is a great guy for these motors if you need assistance:

http://www.sbmar.com/wolverine-oil-pan-heaters.php
 
Cidertom said:
having nothing really to do with the current thread, I have a couple gensets that have a fairly unique manifold heater. A glow plug that when energized opens a wee valve and drips diesel on it , catching fire. let the fire rage in the manifold for a short time then crank. I've been told that method went out of favor in the early 30's.
Click to expand...

what engines do your gen sets have my 380 ford in my Thiokol uses the same system surprising enough it works pretty good. the idea is to have the burn happening while cranking as the suction will draw the tips of the flame into the combustion chamber. I have also seen flame heaters that use a spark igniter and high pressure fuel pump and nozzle to do the same thing on some older military trucks.
 
Dave as his build sheet says he had a Phillips injection system on it I would guess his was never equipped with the heat grid.
 
All sorts of questions then. The build sheet lists the Phillips system, but it's not currently there and the Cummins build sheet has the grid heater being shipped with the engine, but it would have needed to be removed for the Phillips system . . .
 
if it had a grid heater, it could be hooked up with some relays and a momentary switch that might be the way I would go, as those either injection cans have got so expensive with the new transportation regulations. they get 75 bucks for a can up here now. I still prefer the engine block heater and a small generator. the engine should also have come with a 750 watt block heater too, a half hour to an hour of warming time should get the engine to starting temp. plus the generator is always handy to have along the trail.
 
This one didn't come w/ a block heater either, which is strange given application. Cummins number is 3313272 and would be a very straight forward install. I'm sure there are tons of aftermarket as well considering all of the dodge trucks out there.
 
The Franklin skidder i had had a 6BTA cummins in it 177H.P. and it didn't have any manifold heater. The best thing you can do is use synthetic motor oil ,it will turn over at 0 like at 60 degrees. the other thing is a block heater with a portable generator , thats already been spoken about.:smile:
 
Snowtrac Nome said:
what engines do your gen sets have my 380 ford in my Thiokol uses the same system surprising enough it works pretty good. the idea is to have the burn happening while cranking as the suction will draw the tips of the flame into the combustion chamber. I have also seen flame heaters that use a spark igniter and high pressure fuel pump and nozzle to do the same thing on some older military trucks.
Click to expand...

ones a 4 cyl 40's onan(?) the other a 70's 2 cyl china. They work, but I had issues one time when the ball didn't seal well and there was enough diesel hitting the hot manifold to atomize and kept it running with the fuel pump in the off position.
 
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