New to this thread and could use some help with my sprite snowcat. I have owned this machine for about 15 years and have a renewed interest in it. That being said it’s time for a new clutch. It has a manual 4 speed transmission attached to the industrial six cylinder motor. Where would I find a clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing for it. Not much information out there for the clutch replacement. Also how would one find out what year this was with the serial number of 357. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Thiokol 1201 questions
- Thread starter Rumrunner
- Start date
A build sheets exists for each machine that includes the year it was made/delivered. I think Dan at Snow Cat Service (dan@snowcatservice.com) might be able to help you on that front.
On the engine resides a plate with the engine serial number and type. Encoded in the type is the year the engine was made. I believe the first letter indicates the decade (C means the 1960's) and the next number is the specific year so C6XX-XXXX-X is 1966. Lots of web sites contain the Ford decoding info.
Thiokol used standard automotive parts. Figuring out which vehicle they came from is the trick. For engine parts, find a Ford car/van/truck with the same size engine and year and get parts for it. I use a 1965 Falcon 170 CID for my Spryte engine parts. Who knows, maybe you can do the same thing for the clutch parts.
On the engine resides a plate with the engine serial number and type. Encoded in the type is the year the engine was made. I believe the first letter indicates the decade (C means the 1960's) and the next number is the specific year so C6XX-XXXX-X is 1966. Lots of web sites contain the Ford decoding info.
Thiokol used standard automotive parts. Figuring out which vehicle they came from is the trick. For engine parts, find a Ford car/van/truck with the same size engine and year and get parts for it. I use a 1965 Falcon 170 CID for my Spryte engine parts. Who knows, maybe you can do the same thing for the clutch parts.
Thanks for the info
Thanks, my manual has nothing on a manual transmission. I will definitely check into this.
Having trouble getting the bell housing off.
Did you have to use some kind of puller to remove thee brake rotor. As soon as I get it off I will compare it to the bronco. Thanks for the input.
Finally had the time to get the clutch out. Clutch disc measures 8.5 inches, smaller than I expected. Will need the flywheel resurfaced for sure. Working on trying to find the right replacement clutch. Thanks for your input and will let you know know how it works out.
I went through the same issues trying to find a replacement clutch. Another issue was the spline count. My solution was to take it to a shop in West Sacramento and have them re-line the clutch. No guesswork needed as they use your original clutch and re line it. Most likely they too can resurface the plate.
ra
ra
I have an early model Spryte with an "OC4" (no transmission attached to the engine) and noticed the clutch slipping today. Given Rumrunner's recent experience and the input from others, I thought I would seek advice here. The work is going to be done on a packed snow driveway at my cabin.
I wish there was someway to use the cat this winter and do the repair come spring, but there isn't - is there?
So,
- What is the best place to start the disassembly to do the clutch replacement?
- How much room is needed under the cat besides access to losen and remove bolts, and what can be done from inside the cab?
- Redsqwrl said he "pulled the trans and bell as one unit". In my case, might the clutch housing and brake assembly be removed as one unit after removing the aft U-joint?
- Rockaukum - what is the name of the shop you used?
- Should the clutch release bearing be replaced - just to be safe?
Zsprite,
I had the cab separated for my change out. So I pulled the whole enchilada engine and all. I think I would put the cat up on some cants if you have some or somehow block it up so you get more room underneath. Mine has a panel inside that removes over the transmission but everything is kinda tight as you know...
Here is the link to the shop I used. They were very helpful and willing to listen. By that I mean when they ask what the part is from, they work with ya unlike some of the auto parts shops. https://capitolclutch.com/
ra
I had the cab separated for my change out. So I pulled the whole enchilada engine and all. I think I would put the cat up on some cants if you have some or somehow block it up so you get more room underneath. Mine has a panel inside that removes over the transmission but everything is kinda tight as you know...
Here is the link to the shop I used. They were very helpful and willing to listen. By that I mean when they ask what the part is from, they work with ya unlike some of the auto parts shops. https://capitolclutch.com/
ra
Appreciate the info.
The first pic shows the clutch bell housing, drum brake, yoke & drive shaft. The engine sits just left. The second pic is the yoke and drum brake looking up the drive shaft. The drum brake appears to sit foreword of and around what the manual calls (part 39/Fig. 9.2) the "Companion Flange, modified" (the other half of the yoke). I think the 4 yoke bolts clamp the drum brake and yoke halves together with the bolt heads on the brake's foreword side, but the heads aren't accessible when assembled due to the cylinder cone on the braking brake mounting bracket. So how do I disassemble things to get at the clutch?
Attachments
I'd have to take a look at mine but I don't think I needed to be able to get a wrench on the bolt. I may be wrong but I think it is a pressed fit much like a wheel stud? If memory serves me correctly, I removed the driveline, pulled the motor and clutch as a unit then pulled the bell housing off with the brake attached. It looks like you could remove the yoke from the brake, then remove the brake from the bell housing which should give you access to the clutch.
Here is a link to when I did mine.
Here is a link to when I did mine.
Yes i found taking the carrier bearing loose provided enough movement to get the drive shaft flange off the studs also my cat was a b model so i had a oc 12 and np435 trans. The a model we have was done the way you guys are describing