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Thikol 1201B Single cab to Crew cab conversion

M

Monk

New member
So I bought my 1201B a few years ago with the plans of making it into a crew cab. This summer I started the conversion by cutting out the back of the cab, building a box, attaching the cut out section to the box and then the box to the existing cab. Now my questions.....

1) What gauge is the aluminum skin on the cab?
2) I am looking at the Eastwood.com Solid Rivet Kit to start. I know I will need more Clecos and rivets, but am wondering if this kit is worth $199 or is it junk?

Thanks,
Chip
 

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ok so your cat is not going to b ORIGINAL anymore----lol----I would use self tapping stainless screws-----------and for the gauge -----ummmmmmm----calipers work great for that------just sayin
 
Hi Chip,

I don't know the gauge of the Thiokol's aluminum skin, or which alloy they used. In my experience while sheet metal is referred to and sold by "gauge", aluminum is sold by the decimal size. It is also important to specify the alloy of the aluminum you want to purchase. Different alloys have different properties (and of course different price points)

On my Tuckers, (1979 and 1980 vintage) they used aluminum for the hoods, roofs, door skins and floors. Tucker used .063 aluminum in 5052 alloy. My snowcat buddy and I have used both .063 and .080 aluminum, but we've stuck with the same, 5052 alloy.

My snowcat buddy picked up a Thiokol 1201C this spring, and my recollection from looking at it is all the rivets are the same size. My guess is they used 3/16 rivets, but that's a guess. The Eastwood kit seems divided into two rivet sizes, 1/8" and 3/16". Before purchasing that, I'd suggest you look at Aircraft Spruce and Specialty Company, and see what rivet components and tools they offer. I think rivets can be sourced from McMaster Carr as well.

After completing some Tucker projects, we are also going to modify the cab on the 1201C, I suspect in a similar fashion to what you are doing, but with a couple of differences, which you might consider.

If you look at the early Thiokol 1200 vs later LMC and DMC 1200 series machines you'll note the later models have taller doors. After climbing into Scott's machine one time, we agreed it required some contortions, and the taller doors would make that a lot easier.
 
Backyardski said:
I don't think anyone could top Blackfoots reply

This one is currently on chameleon for the bigger door reference, no idea if that is a factory cab

View attachment 101633


http://www.chameleoninc.com/snowcats/
Click to expand...

Thanks for the kind words!

That machine has the smaller style door in front. This photo is from the spec sheets on Safety One's website. It's not a great picture of the front door, but if you look closely you can see that it's taller and angles down toward the front.

lmc1200.1.jpg

This drawing (also from Safety One) shows the door configuration better.

lmc1200.2.gif
 
I hadn't seen a spryte (3) in person until this past weekend, a snow trac or three as well! I was back in Wisconsin for a wedding and dropped by Redsqrwl's. Now I know what happens when the snowcat disease goes full blown. Anyway, I was surprised at how tight the operators seat looked to be. I'd bet I would have a few lumps on my head before I figured out how to enter/exit correctly. Cool looking cats for sure. Keep posting the pics Chip!
 
Thanks guys for the replies. While I do have calipers and micrometers, the cat is 6 hours away. I did the welding at home as the cat is located off grid with only a Honda eu2000 for power. The .063 thickness with 3/16” rivets seems to agree with what I thought. Thank you Blackfoot Tucker and Backyardski for your input. More later
 
Chip, I had another thought...

On my snowcat buddy's Thiokol you can see how the upper part of the whole cab assembly can be unbolted and lifted off. That seam, or break point, is just below the headlights, IIRC. My supposition is, if you needed to remove the engine, that's how it would be done; remove the top of the cab, then you can use a crane, cherry picker, engine hoist, whatever, to lift the engine out.

Looking at the photo you posted I can't tell if you have retained that capability. If not, I would suggest you give consideration to an alternative engine removal method.
 
Are you using square tubing? It's hard to tell from the pictures. If so then the solid rivets won't work. You will need blind rivets. If you do use blind rivets use some type of closed end self sealing. Otherwise water seeps into the holes and will rust your frame from the inside out. Also make sure you prime all the metals to avoid dissimilar metal corrosion. It's been covered here in a Tucker thread.
 
Monk
I would call nutsster He has built a few cabs, and has done a 1200 two place to five cab. His work looks great.
 
PJL said:
Are you using square tubing? It's hard to tell from the pictures. If so then the solid rivets won't work. You will need blind rivets. If you do use blind rivets use some type of closed end self sealing. Otherwise water seeps into the holes and will rust your frame from the inside out. Also make sure you prime all the metals to avoid dissimilar metal corrosion. It's been covered here in a Tucker thread.
Click to expand...

Nope, I am using 3/4” angle iron. My plan was to use grey self etching primer then paint before any sheeting goes on. The only square tubing I am using is on the doors. I am also planning on using some VHB tape before riveting.
 
Blackfoot Tucker said:
Chip, I had another thought...

On my snowcat buddy's Thiokol you can see how the upper part of the whole cab assembly can be unbolted and lifted off. That seam, or break point, is just below the headlights, IIRC. My supposition is, if you needed to remove the engine, that's how it would be done; remove the top of the cab, then you can use a crane, cherry picker, engine hoist, whatever, to lift the engine out.

Looking at the photo you posted I can't tell if you have retained that capability. If not, I would suggest you give consideration to an alternative engine removal method.
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Yes Sir the new section is bolted on. If I needed to remove it I would just need to unbolt it and drill a few rivets where the two roof panels join. Great point though, please keep the ideas coming in case I forgot anything.
 
Here is my ensemble of make it happen thiokol cab extender equipment.

the bucking block display was omitted, It was as diverse as 3/4" bolts, ball peen hammers, even a curved plant hanger got some play while setting rivets.

most of the open rivets were set with a air hammer. we thought we could squeeze some along the edges but that never seemed efficient.

My son chose the short door for his A model crew cab project. His reasons I feel are valid:
1) opening the door on an incline.
2) cab removal.

Most of the long doored 5 mans he looked at had bulk heads in the OEM
(2 man cab) back wall position. He wanted his rear occupants to get in and sit down with out having to clock their feet, so his dog house ends like a pennisula and the floor is un interrupted

the rivets for the doors into the square tube were sourced from kimbell midwest. part numbers in photo.

this was my sons first real sheet metal experience and there are some larger headed 1/4 solid rivets there in the ensemble photo.

gasket material for the windows were sourced on line.
Local glass company supplied the glass out of the drop pile minimal charge to cut the corners.
some of the windows are plexiglass,

+1 on the air craft spruce supplier.
a rivet shear and setting tool for the air hammer came from grainger. (ironically the set is over by the press with compression applied to a 2100 injection pump) Kroil is good, JB80 is good but my patients is low.....
 

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Seems like every photo I see of a snot trac, has someone laying under it. I there a factory part number for this?
 
I went deeper into this subject in the Snowzilla thread, but I completely agree with PJL, and the necessity of using closed-end blind rivets.

The typical blind rivet is more commonly known as a POP rivet. Those have a mandrel that the rivet gun pulls on to compress the back part of the rivet. As part of the compressing process, some of the mandrel breaks off and stays with the rivet gun, and the other piece stays in the newly installed rivet. But that broken part of the mandrel that stayed in the rivet is not water tight, and it can fall out- leaving a decent sized hole for water to get in. With a closed-end blind rivet the back of the rivet is solid, so there's no hole.

This seems like a fairly simple concept, doesn't it? Now think about the literally hundreds of rivets used, and the possible number of holes for water to penetrate....
 
sno-drifter said:
Seems like every photo I see of a snot trac, has someone laying under it. I there a factory part number for this?
Click to expand...

That is me, pounding a failing track pin back in again....... I had switched the over lap splice to a buckle or lacing connector like the spryte next to it. as far as a part number......

001-300-waitingonthetuckers-007

often sold as a pair:

001-400nothingtodohereinthefront-008

:th_lmao:
I need some coffee.....

these parts are exclusive to snow cats with steering wheels and rubber band drives. or as we say here in the incline challlenged midwest,

Trail Breakers:thumbup:
 
I use a sheet metal from a truck trailer shop
After I was done (worked really well) I was told it was to soft and I should gave used a harder metal
Used solid rivits and drive rivits from a trailer shop
Also some pop rivits that had a larger head that matched the solid rivits but last time I tried to buy some they had been discontinued got them from a nut and bolt supply
Good luck enjoy the project
 
I hear that. did I mash them too much or not enough, is the guessing game.

I found a air frame mechanic to learn me up a bit. He said after you smash a few hundred, you will start to get comfortably cocky. remember things will pull and push as winter and summer temps work on the sheets. a little wave here or there will most likely pull tight in winter temps
 
redsqwrl said:
I hear that. did I mash them too much or not enough, is the guessing game.

I found a air frame mechanic to learn me up a bit. He said after you smash a few hundred, you will start to get comfortably cocky. remember things will pull and push as winter and summer temps work on the sheets. a little wave here or there will most likely pull tight in winter temps
Click to expand...

Good to know! I will be headed back over at the end of the month to hopefully wrap things up so it’s all ready for the snow to start flying. I still need to build the storage box for the bed. It will have to go over on another trip though. I am running out of time. Lol
 
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