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Skidozer 302

B

Birch Boy

Member
Hi guys. Just picked up a 73 Skidozer 302 with wide snow tracks and 6 way u blade. It has both power steering and long lever steering but the long lever steering isn't hooked up. A guy told me that some of them came from the factory that way which left me scratching my head. Secondly the entire brake system in the machine has been removed leaving only the rotor on the drive shaft. Again the guy told me that this isn't needed to stop .... start'n to think the guy is nuts.
Need advice and maybe a complete brake assembly.
 
I don't know about the steering other than I know some came with some sort of power steering assist. The rotor on the drive shaft is the parking brake assembly which like the guy said is not used for actual breaking. It is nice to have in certain situations but you can defiantly live without it.
 
Thanks Alaska Snow Cat. The power assist levers are attached to the front of the drivers seat and I've been told the idea is that you can use one hand to steer with these while the other hand can work the blade joy stick.
- re brakes. So to be clear the brake pedal is more for a park brake or last ditch emergency then for normal use?
 
Sounds like the power assist is a very nice feature. I've spent many hours grooming with a Bombi and Spryte using the left arm to pull levers and running the blade and groomer with the right arm.

If all the foot brake does is activate the driveshaft brake then yes it is for parking and emergency only. It has been my experience that brake will stop you dead in your tracks as it is very aggressive.
 
Birch Boy said:
Hi guys. Just picked up a 73 Skidozer 302 with wide snow tracks and 6 way u blade. It has both power steering and long lever steering but the long lever steering isn't hooked up. A guy told me that some of them came from the factory that way which left me scratching my head. Secondly the entire brake system in the machine has been removed leaving only the rotor on the drive shaft. Again the guy told me that this isn't needed to stop .... start'n to think the guy is nuts.
Need advice and maybe a complete brake assembly.
Click to expand...

the long lever runs off a master cylinder and seperate slave on the differential the short ones use a hydraulic source and they are much nicer to use the master cylinders on allot off them get taken off they are there for backup. you really do not need them. if you pull both levers at the same time that is your brake. the driveline brake is nice to have. we have the units that go on those if you need it.
 
do you have any pictures? I bought what iwas told was a similar 301 and am now finding out I may have a 302. Thanks
 
Thanks Boggie. Spent this weekend crawling around the machine with a parts manual for SV301-501-501S. I am now not sure what I have. The machine has a 460 V8 in it, no transfer case at all, A really big differential which doesn't match anything in the book - Is a solid casing with no bolts on the side and a lid with about 34 bolts. The lid contains a breather, filling cap (with 1/2" sq) wrench size to open and a dip stick. The differential also has a temp gauge on it. Looks like it might have come out of a swamp machine but it is bigger then the original because they modified the back end to accomodate. The front tires are solid but the bearing cap is perfectly round and not hex shaped with the other wheels. I am missing this cap so if you have one I need it. The gauges runs accross the ceiling of the cab and say SV302. There are 2 additional rads in front of the engine rad; one is for the tranny and the other is for the differential. I measured the track width and they stand at 53 inches each. I am thinking I have a modified SV 501S.
Please advise your thoughts.
 
Birch Boy said:
Thanks Boggie. Spent this weekend crawling around the machine with a parts manual for SV301-501-501S. I am now not sure what I have. The machine has a 460 V8 in it, no transfer case at all, A really big differential which doesn't match anything in the book - Is a solid casing with no bolts on the side and a lid with about 34 bolts. The lid contains a breather, filling cap (with 1/2" sq) wrench size to open and a dip stick. The differential also has a temp gauge on it. Looks like it might have come out of a swamp machine but it is bigger then the original because they modified the back end to accomodate. The front tires are solid but the bearing cap is perfectly round and not hex shaped with the other wheels. I am missing this cap so if you have one I need it. The gauges runs accross the ceiling of the cab and say SV302. There are 2 additional rads in front of the engine rad; one is for the tranny and the other is for the differential. I measured the track width and they stand at 53 inches each. I am thinking I have a modified SV 501S.
Please advise your thoughts.
Click to expand...


Sounds like a SV302 but if the differentail was modified ? then ? it sounds like a 302 but there were a few 500 series not many ..... way more 302's
we do have that round aluminum cap( some were cast steel )
 
Hey Boggie. How come the parts manual shows a 6 cylinder in the 301/302 series and V 8's in the 501/501S series? The cap for the front solid wheel bearing is round (like a bowl) and fine threaded. Do you have one of these?
 
Hi MAD.

I am not that good with posting pics on a thread but if you send me your email address I will forward some pics for you.
 
Birch Boy said:
Hey Boggie. How come the parts manual shows a 6 cylinder in the 301/302 series and V 8's in the 501/501S series? The cap for the front solid wheel bearing is round (like a bowl) and fine threaded. Do you have one of these?
Click to expand...

we had a SV 302 with a 460 here a while ago we do have the Bowl cover style in aluminum
 
I just bought a 302, with the 460 ford....have not picked it up yet...a mear 1700 drive each way (ouch) mid Feb for the trip. will be pulling the tracks in order to travel under DOT limits, any advice how best to do so? pop them then winch onto the deckover trailer? Then roll/coil them up onto the rear of the trailer? also I'm sure I 'll be needing a service manual, know where I can get one? I'll post a pic soon.
Swixb
 
Depends on your flatbed. If it runs I might be inclined to drive onto the flatbed and then jack it up on blocks and remove the tracks and then drop back down and chain. I have a manual that covers 301's and 502,s and the experts tell me that the 301 and 302 are pretty much the same. I just had mine out this weekend after rebuilding the tranny. One thing you have to know is that 460 sure is thirsty. It is no problem to drink 6-8gallons in an hour but I am grooming a ski hill.

What year is your machine.? I recommend changing every filter you can find; fuel, hydraulic, oil, air before running to much and change the tranny fluid. Also remove and clean out the tranny rad and lines and reinstall. I didn't do that which resulted in rebuilding the tranny.
Where abouts are you located?
 
The cat is in NewYork..I am in Denver. I have a 20' deckover trailer, bumper pull. 2500hd Duramax as the tow rig. Year is unknown at this time, I have not even seen a pic of the interior so do not know how the controls are set up or what options is has. I'd pay you for a copy of book. I'm sure I'll need it!
it was running last week, but some wire melted on the manafold while he was driving it back to his house...the seller is not a mechanic, so i dont know if I'll be able to do a quick fix or will just have to winch it onto the trailer. Plan A was to pop the pins and roll out of the tracks on the way up the ramps, then coil the tracks up behind it. Question on the track removal procedure...can I get by with a handyman jack to take the pressure off? how do you let the grease out of the tentioners?
was thinking of making "poor mans" track jacks: take two beefy trailer jacks, side winder type, and welding arms to the head and foot to grab the grousers. I'd rather make them after I have the tracks so I can make the arms fit right as I do not know how long to make them.
 
Pic of my Skidozer 302.
 

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Looks clean.... I can see that a tire appears flat. I figure that machine is mid 70s by it's appearance. the tensioners are a bitch to get at.... especially in the winter so if it is possible to get running then do so. The front plow set up reduces clearance at the front quite and the machine is around 8500 lbs with most of the wt at the front. bring some heavy duty jacks or some bottle jacks.
- find out how wide that machine with including tracks. there is a chance you might be able to get away with not having to take them off. By the pick they are not as wide as I thought.
 
115" the outside belt has been cut off on both sides, so now it is asymetric. I may be able to flop every other grouser and add the belt, but then cannot transport. Here in Colo we can get a wideload permit for 10 and under for 32 bucks. So I'd like to run it at 9.5' and see how it does in the powder. Yea the blade is nice for cutting a slope, but I'll probably take it off while exploring the mountians. Goal to haul skiers. Will build a box on the back.
It has one flat on the other side too.
 
The blade is 8.5', yea the pic is decieving as it looks like the blade and tracks are the same. The 302 with the 460 does not have a t-case? The factory figured it has enough TQ to grunt around in first gear? What is top end speed? 15mph?
Any hints for poping the tracks pins? Have never done it on a Skidozer.
I paid $2800 for it.
 
look for permits for 9 ft 7 inches wide. Might save you time and hassle. I am running 53 inch tracks on mine with 2 steel slide clips on each grouser and even on a 45 degree pitch it is clawing like hell to get up..... well 45 degrees is pretty steep :o). Anyway too things to think of... one is that if you don't have those slide slip clips on the track then coming down a steep hill can be scarey. When the machine starts to slip on the slope you need to step on the gas and steer like hell to keep the nose downhill.... found that out this weekend. The other is to ask that guy for the belts he cut off so you can use them in the powder.
Really good purchase price. 1st gear has lots of grunt. I've gone up a hill so steep that it buried itself in the snow still spinning the track. 15mph is about as fast as you would want to go (and maxing out the rpm)... personally I run it in 1st speed up the hills at around 3-3500 rpm... doing maybe around 3mph.
Nope on the transfer case - juse a C 6 trany
 
Birch Boy said:
look for permits for 9 ft 7 inches wide. Might save you time and hassle. I am running 53 inch tracks on mine with 2 steel slide clips on each grouser and even on a 45 degree pitch it is clawing like hell to get up..... well 45 degrees is pretty steep :o). Anyway too things to think of... one is that if you don't have those slide slip clips on the track then coming down a steep hill can be scarey. When the machine starts to slip on the slope you need to step on the gas and steer like hell to keep the nose downhill.... found that out this weekend. The other is to ask that guy for the belts he cut off so you can use them in the powder.
Really good purchase price. 1st gear has lots of grunt. I've gone up a hill so steep that it buried itself in the snow still spinning the track. 15mph is about as fast as you would want to go (and maxing out the rpm)... personally I run it in 1st speed up the hills at around 3-3500 rpm... doing maybe around 3mph.
Nope on the transfer case - juse a C 6 trany
Click to expand...



:weneedpic
 
can you take a close up pic of the Ice picks you have on your tracks? I may ( being the cheapskate i am) try to fab my own. do you think the ALM grouisers in the pic are original? Have seen so many diffrent types...he does not know where the original belting went, bummer, he bought it that way. No t-case, good one less thing to break. In the Jeeping world, as long as you can spin all four under max traction, you have enough power to gears. If this rig will spin the tracks when climbing (at 13,000') then I have enough power. :w00t2: Speaking of climbing steep angles, how do they have the oil pickup configured? V style or just a rear sump? Starving it going up or down steep slopes should have been addressed form the factory, but... What about the carb? ever stick the floats and starve it of fuel? (another Moab problem) being a "standard" Ford engine, one could bolt on a EFI system and correct the "tilted carb" problem.
 
It's a rear sump confirmation. My carb was put on before I got it and I am having some sputtering issues while climbing the steep grade. It is an edlebrook 4 barrel but I have to do some research on the jetting etc.... Note that the manuals do not include any info on the motors, carbs, tranny etc... Let me know if you are going to do the EFI thing and how you will do it.
 
Where are you? what altitude are you running at? I will start at 7k' and go up from there. Yes as time goes on I'll post all kinds of stuff, love the idea of shariing with "like minded people"
 
Holly pro-jection kit is a grand. old forum posts sure did not like it though, maybe it has improved over the years. I'll go there only if I cannot get the 460 to run at altitude. Many other places to put my money and time first. Like a nice "OEM look" passenger box on the back.
 
if you are planning on incorperating efi my vote goes to the factory eec-4 system if you have to buy parts you can g to the local parts store and get them
 
Was planning on buildign my own, steel frame with alum skin, with sound deadening material between. May repurpose the two windows in the back of the cab in the sides of the box, as I want to be able to hear/comunicate with them. Will try to insulate the engine noise too. I'll route the exhaust out & up Will need to figure out how to vent the engine compartment, dont want the cabin filling with blowby and carbon monoxide....Want to build in a beefy ROPS as well, but the cab and my box will need to be removable just in case one has to pull the engine...but the roll bar I'll weld to the frame behind the stock cab and inside my box.
Yea I have a 50 gal tank earmarked for this already...may mount it on top of the cab, fill it when needed. Or put it under a seat in the back.
Question, do passengers prefer to sit facing the sides or forward? Bench seats along the sides with storage under them would be a good use of space, but if not comfortable then I'll go with something diffrent.
 
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