I thought I would make a quick little post on this to start out then add to it as I progress. My IMP is in need of new tracks. The condition of the current set is ok. There is only one tear in the belting but the top layer on both tracks is heavily cracked. I think I could get another year or two out of what I have, so I figure I should start working on rebuilding my other set of factory style grousers. I don’t have a good picture of the current set of tracks. They are twin belt, wide track like factory, but they were built with 2x2x.125 steel angle beveled at each end, and the center portion is notched out to accept the factory thiokol tire guides. The grousers aren’t offset like the factory setup. They seem to work great, but they are definitely heavier, and the grousers are bolted to the belts with large head elevator bolts. Of course, the bolts and nuts are fused together from years of use, so there’s no getting them apart very easily.
Two years ago, I picked up a very well used set of tracks from Mary Guthrie at Snowtrans. I basically bought them for the value of the grousers. The belts have basically left the chat. Several tears, splices, welded grousers, broken tire guides, loose bolts, etc. Now to salvage the grousers and good tire guides: I’ve found the best method to remove the stubborn bolts that tie grouser to belt is to mildly heat the nut/bolt inside the grouser, then dab a color crayon onto the threads. Next I use a brand new pair of 9” Milwaukee vice grips (read:fresh jaws) to attach to the nut inside the grouser and hopefully rattle out the bolt with my large Makita cordless impact. I made a custom wrench with a shortened 1/2” socket welded to a steel bar, this didn’t work on hardly any of the bolts so far. I found that some of the nuts had loosened over decades allowing the whole nut/bolt to spin and wear down the nut. There was no way to get a proper wrench on them. As you can see in the photos, the nuts are a mechanical lock nut that are a one time use. Because of their design, they are lower profile than a standard nylock. Some have become so worn and rounded that it’s impossible to grip at all with locking pliers. Moving onwards, if the locking pliers didn’t work, I then revert to my 5” makita grinder with thin disk to cut the head of the bolt off on top of the backing plates.
I’ve tried Kroil, and free-all, but the bolts still laugh at me..the wax seems to penetrate and lubricate to be able to back most off without a lot of ugga -dugga’s.
Just to paint a picture of how miserable and tedious this is, I’ve completed tear down of 1/2 of one track in about 7 hours. I have a good process down now that seems to make the process go quicker, or at least it seem to. It’s definitely easier to cut the old tracks into 2’ sections of 5-6 grousers, and work on them at a decent height while holding in a vise.
Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, who knows when I will get there. Gonna use all new bolts everywhere. Does anyone have recommendation on grade and nut style? My thought is grade 5 with Nylock rather than a mechanical locknut. I may even use anti seize on them too. Also, is there any harm in inserting the bolt through the grouser first to have the nut on the backside of the belt where it is more easily removed? Seems a helluva lot easier than trying to get a wrench on the locknut within the grouser?? Many pictures attached, enjoy!
Two years ago, I picked up a very well used set of tracks from Mary Guthrie at Snowtrans. I basically bought them for the value of the grousers. The belts have basically left the chat. Several tears, splices, welded grousers, broken tire guides, loose bolts, etc. Now to salvage the grousers and good tire guides: I’ve found the best method to remove the stubborn bolts that tie grouser to belt is to mildly heat the nut/bolt inside the grouser, then dab a color crayon onto the threads. Next I use a brand new pair of 9” Milwaukee vice grips (read:fresh jaws) to attach to the nut inside the grouser and hopefully rattle out the bolt with my large Makita cordless impact. I made a custom wrench with a shortened 1/2” socket welded to a steel bar, this didn’t work on hardly any of the bolts so far. I found that some of the nuts had loosened over decades allowing the whole nut/bolt to spin and wear down the nut. There was no way to get a proper wrench on them. As you can see in the photos, the nuts are a mechanical lock nut that are a one time use. Because of their design, they are lower profile than a standard nylock. Some have become so worn and rounded that it’s impossible to grip at all with locking pliers. Moving onwards, if the locking pliers didn’t work, I then revert to my 5” makita grinder with thin disk to cut the head of the bolt off on top of the backing plates.
I’ve tried Kroil, and free-all, but the bolts still laugh at me..the wax seems to penetrate and lubricate to be able to back most off without a lot of ugga -dugga’s.
Just to paint a picture of how miserable and tedious this is, I’ve completed tear down of 1/2 of one track in about 7 hours. I have a good process down now that seems to make the process go quicker, or at least it seem to. It’s definitely easier to cut the old tracks into 2’ sections of 5-6 grousers, and work on them at a decent height while holding in a vise.
Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, who knows when I will get there. Gonna use all new bolts everywhere. Does anyone have recommendation on grade and nut style? My thought is grade 5 with Nylock rather than a mechanical locknut. I may even use anti seize on them too. Also, is there any harm in inserting the bolt through the grouser first to have the nut on the backside of the belt where it is more easily removed? Seems a helluva lot easier than trying to get a wrench on the locknut within the grouser?? Many pictures attached, enjoy!
