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I can get in your front door....
- Thread starter urednecku
- Start date
DaveNay
Klaatu barada nikto
Way too complicated. The best universal key is a auto body sliding hammer with a stainless steel screw on the end....thread it into the brass lock and just a few hits will pop out nearly any lock cylinder.
urednecku
Banned
Or my #11 boot on the door. Not usually much challenge to that either.(Yea, I've done that, but the house was on fire.
)Beauty of bump key, not much more noise than the correct key, residents might not even hear it, especially if your watching TV. Lock the door behind you and no signs of forced entry. I watched several of the videos, it looks real simple. Wouldn't take much practice, even on a master lock, to be real proficient with the method.
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ddrane2115
Charter Member
wonder what they do about the body stopper on the other side of the door? In my house that is a .380 loaded to the rim with lead.........or if that is not sufficient, 3 20 gauge slugs..............
but hey neat to see it work
but hey neat to see it work
American Woman
Banned
Something to think about....if I was driving by a house where a guy had his key ring out and unlocking his front door I wouldn't think anything about it...but if he's banging on a screw driver in the key hole, or kicking it with what ever size or type of shoe he may be wearing I may think about that one and call the cops or something.
ddrane2115
Charter Member
I can see the kicking, but with the bump key, that would be hard to distinquish between a break in and someone having a time finding the keyhole. They could hide the bump pretty well.
California
Charter Member
Years ago I worked as a carpenter for a contractor who did insurance repairs. We fixed breakins all the time. What I learned:
You need 3 to 4 inch screws securing the latchplate to the door jamb, minimum. The screws need to cross a half inch air gap behind the jamb and get a secure hold in the stud surrounding the rough door opening. Door jambs are made of soft pine and are certain to split if they are the only thing absorbing the force of a kick.
After a breakin when you are upgrading security, get the latchplate that takes four 4 inch screws. Or get it before the breakin!
If you are building for security, get a steel door and jamb.
And one tip I learned as an experiment while fixing up a rental I bought: it is amazingly easy to twist off a complete doorknob assembly with the $10 large water pump pliers
sold at Kmart in your nearest rough neighborhood. The lock I demolished was a Schlage; Kwikset looks a lot flimsier and you might be able to do that one with your bare hands. The pliers would be easy to conceal, and use without a racket. I'm surprised it isn't the stupid burglar's tool of choice.
You need 3 to 4 inch screws securing the latchplate to the door jamb, minimum. The screws need to cross a half inch air gap behind the jamb and get a secure hold in the stud surrounding the rough door opening. Door jambs are made of soft pine and are certain to split if they are the only thing absorbing the force of a kick.
After a breakin when you are upgrading security, get the latchplate that takes four 4 inch screws. Or get it before the breakin!
If you are building for security, get a steel door and jamb.
And one tip I learned as an experiment while fixing up a rental I bought: it is amazingly easy to twist off a complete doorknob assembly with the $10 large water pump pliers
sold at Kmart in your nearest rough neighborhood. The lock I demolished was a Schlage; Kwikset looks a lot flimsier and you might be able to do that one with your bare hands. The pliers would be easy to conceal, and use without a racket. I'm surprised it isn't the stupid burglar's tool of choice.
