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First gen dodge VE injection pump reseal
- Thread starter m1west
- Start date
I let the truck sit for a month, then when I went to start it, it initially started for a second then quit, I actuated the lift pump and saw fuel coming from the back side and dripping off the bottom.
Yesterday I started the removal, I can see it had never been off, was a real PITA getting it off, the nuts that hold it on are under and in the back of the pump, I have the special bent wrench and it was still hard. Everything else was straight forward. Set to TDC, lock the pump. Pull the gear and off she comes
Yesterday I started the removal, I can see it had never been off, was a real PITA getting it off, the nuts that hold it on are under and in the back of the pump, I have the special bent wrench and it was still hard. Everything else was straight forward. Set to TDC, lock the pump. Pull the gear and off she comes
The bottom picture is before I took it apart and should have been the top one, the top one is after changing the O ring and put back together, those torx screws sucked and all stripped but 2, had to use a chisel to tap them lose to get them out so I bought all new with hex heads. To change the O ring the easy way without complete disassembly is to loosen the screws until the O ring is exposed NO more, then pick the O ring breaking it and bull it out. To install the new one, remove the shut off solenoid and work the O ring down over the body, then remove two of the four bolts at a time diagonally so the O ring can pass the put them back and do the other two, now it’s back in its groove without all the springs and rotor drama of taking it apart. Figured I would do this as I had the pump off already and they leak there too as well as the main shaft seal.
That little shaft seal was a pita to change, got it out with very small sheet metal screws then pried out with a screwdriver and a deep socket and hammer for the new one. All the O rings and seals were hard and lost their shape, defiantly need changed. Put it back on in the morning.
Got the pump back on with the drive gear, I jumped 1 tooth to line up with the C instead of the E on the pump gear, this gives a couple degrees of timing advance without the pump pushed up against the manifold, and if I want more I can push it to the manifold. Also plan to swap the h1c turbo to the hx35 that I have left over from the p pump 24 valve build. These modifications will make it run like my manual truck that has a noticeable increase in power over this one. Anyway I also installed a new timing cover crank seal while I was there, got everything done except the fuel lines, fan, shroud, belt and fuel lines. 96 here today so I had to pack it in after lunch. Tomorrow I should finish up and start it. I did turn it over enough to get fuel into the pump and spit out the fuel line fittings, no leaks so far.
Finished it by lunch time, no extra parts, extra bolts or leaks took it for a test drive and all good. $9.00 rebuild kit saved $1000.00 and the killer dowel pin had already been addressed. I was going to sell this one, but may keep it and have one ( the manual truck ) for the work horse and this one to run around in?? Now I can take it to get the ac fixed.
Looks like I saved a little more than I thought. I forgot about the labor to take it off and put it back on. I have about 12 hours in it including the reseal of the pump. 12hr x $150.00 an hour= $1800.00 and the $9.00 kit and $20.00 worth of brake cleaner = $1829.00. Pretty close to the low estimate.
For some reason, other than a simple recharge I haven’t had good luck with that. I tried the self recharge but the compressor still won’t come on. When it comes to troubleshooting auto ac, I’m out of my area. So for a couple hundred bucks, someone with experience can fix it with a warranty and I won’t get stressed out. I can rebuild most anything mechanical but program a remote for the tv or set up anything with a program and I go on tilt. I quickly get frustrated with small tedious things, I don’t even like installing a radio.