and left side does not match right side
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Finally found my Tucker!
- Thread starter Thefatsquatch
- Start date
Thefatsquatch
Active member
Yeah, the glass shop pointed out that not a single corner of the front windshield was the same radius. Bit of a fun one there.
From the Tucker factory? I'm shocked (NOT!)
Thefatsquatch
Active member
Yeah, I had them pick the sharpest, most even radius corner, and I figure I will trim the frame to fit. I decided a while ago that there are some absolutely beautiful restorations out there, and they likely started in a different place than this one. So, I am doing whatever I want. Why not extend the cab if I have to replace the sheet metal anyway? Why not put a layer of fiberglass over the cab with reinforcements where the roof-rack and strobe light are going to go? If I want to build new doors out of carbon fiber board because I have it, who is stopping me? The motor and tranny aren't original, the frame looks like it was welded by a noob with active epilepsy, and I broke an axle in my driveway. Maybe this thing will get a completely unnecessary hood scoop. Maybe I will put rocket launchers on it. Maybe I will build some tucker-like metal/rubber tracks for it so I don't have to replace 4k worth of track wheels. But I do know two things. It is getting painted orange, and it's getting more windows.
why not take the gas tank out of the cab, thus giving you more room than you willl know what to do with and put the tank in the rear part of the frame under the floor deck
and if are thinking big, why not abandon all things tucker except fifth wheels and axles, build a bigger better machine of your own design, think big
I've been considering putting a Volkswagen Beetle hood and front fenders on mine.
Been meaning to play with Photoshop to see how I like it..... just haven't had time.
..... (Don't get your rocket launchers from eBay..... trust me).
Been meaning to play with Photoshop to see how I like it..... just haven't had time.
..... (Don't get your rocket launchers from eBay..... trust me).
Thefatsquatch
Active member
Last owner already did that. Bad ass coffin shaped aluminum tank. Bad news is, I’m 6’5, and it gave me enough room to scoot my seat back. He also put some Amazon bucket seats in there, which I tho k I’ll keep, but I need to build new mounts so they aren’t on the floor. I really like the way the crew cab units look from the 80s too, so if I have to Frankenstein-cat a bit, it won’t hurt my feelings.
Thefatsquatch
Active member
That’s the other project. A jeep Cherokee body on a Thiokol 2100 frame.
If you're that tall, and planning on raising the seat off of the floor some, you are going to hate your current windshield placement. My seat replacements went back onto the factory seat frame (~6" from floor). Tank replacement cut an inch behind the seat. But even at 6 feet tall I feel like I need to slouch in the seat to be able to see what I want to see because the top of the windshield is so low. An additional 5" of personal would be a no go. You will be able to see out and down, but not far ahead.
Honestly if the entire cab had just been lifted 5" and everything stretched down accordingly, it would be a much more enjoyable ride.
Previous owner of MY Tucker asked me to take the tank out of the cab so he could have a little more leg room.
..... Then he only drove it ONCE in the next ten years!!!
I was the only one allowed to drive it since the last yahoo tried to do a "doughnut" in it and threw three tracks off it. I had to build fifty new rollers for it to keep it from going to the junkyard. They were sketchy, but they worked..... the new ones I make are awesome. (There are still a few "emergency rollers" on it, to this day).
Joe gave the Tucker to ME, because Tucker deserved an owner that would take good care of him.
It was a good decision.
..... Then he only drove it ONCE in the next ten years!!!
I was the only one allowed to drive it since the last yahoo tried to do a "doughnut" in it and threw three tracks off it. I had to build fifty new rollers for it to keep it from going to the junkyard. They were sketchy, but they worked..... the new ones I make are awesome. (There are still a few "emergency rollers" on it, to this day).
Joe gave the Tucker to ME, because Tucker deserved an owner that would take good care of him.
It was a good decision.
Thefatsquatch
Active member
Ok guys. (And Ladies). I have the tranny rebuilt and the can extended. All the windows are in and the motor is running alright. I started putting pontoons on today and I gotta be honest… this design is a concept at best. That said, the only Real issue I’m having is the fact that the tracks are quite a bit wider than the actual pontoon. How much side play should these have? In my brain, less is better. If it can’t get a run at falling off, it likely won’t fall off.
Thefatsquatch
Active member
there is a difference between a 3/4 inch and 1 inch grouser, also the 1 inch roller will not fit on a 3/4 roller grouser, and the other way around, also 3/4 roller axle is a smaller diameter than a 1 inch roller axle diameter
what a mess of bent everything and yet it still has 50 feet of use left, the sqwrl will squeeze those last few inches of use out of it!!!
Thefatsquatch
Active member
The mid-span portion seems fine on mine so far, but the section where it transitions from span to link is just a flat bar. And like yours, every single one of mine is tipped up at the outside edge. I assume that means the roller is no longer square with the rail. These don’t appear to be heat treated at all, so I assume that using a press to bring them back into square would not damage them structurally, unless I had to do it many times.
Thefatsquatch
Active member
A
That is good to know. The rollers appear lined up snug in the holes, so I’m guessing that part is correct. As for whether these tracks for these pontoons…. Anyone’s guess.
There is quite a bit of debate over the care and feeding of these grousers.
My final decision comes from a few folks on this forum. I use a simple large square to find the bent ones. If you poke along in good snow at sane speeds you typically dont have very many bent grousers. The smallest root or rock can easily bend or flair a grouser. Mark the bent on the roller side of the grousers.
Pull the track
Remove the roller(s)
I press the sag out of grousers.
Be smart enough to look at the wear on the grouser treads. If they are wore bad take that into account.
after the grousers are straight look for flanges that are still not square.
Flaired roller flanges....
I use a very large heavy *dolley* behind the ear.
Swing like you mean it. Once is enough. (And dont hit it at the hole)
Everyone should have an approach to true up their tracks.
You can hear it if they are worn or bent. Clicks and cracks and pops are not lubrication problems. Sprocket wear is from worn pins and straps. .030 of wear per pair of pins is a lot of friction at the sprocket .
I feel Sprocket wear and grouser alignment is misunderstood in all snow cats.
Example. I acquired a snowtrac years back that had one grouser mis-spaced at the track splice. in one 50 hour outing i toasted the drive sprocket(s) on that side.
If your rig is mostly a static display only going on and off the trailer and short cruises. Close is good enough. If you want carefree long distance treks you need this service done.
My final decision comes from a few folks on this forum. I use a simple large square to find the bent ones. If you poke along in good snow at sane speeds you typically dont have very many bent grousers. The smallest root or rock can easily bend or flair a grouser. Mark the bent on the roller side of the grousers.
Pull the track
Remove the roller(s)
I press the sag out of grousers.
Be smart enough to look at the wear on the grouser treads. If they are wore bad take that into account.
after the grousers are straight look for flanges that are still not square.
Flaired roller flanges....
I use a very large heavy *dolley* behind the ear.
Swing like you mean it. Once is enough. (And dont hit it at the hole)
Everyone should have an approach to true up their tracks.
You can hear it if they are worn or bent. Clicks and cracks and pops are not lubrication problems. Sprocket wear is from worn pins and straps. .030 of wear per pair of pins is a lot of friction at the sprocket .
I feel Sprocket wear and grouser alignment is misunderstood in all snow cats.
Example. I acquired a snowtrac years back that had one grouser mis-spaced at the track splice. in one 50 hour outing i toasted the drive sprocket(s) on that side.
If your rig is mostly a static display only going on and off the trailer and short cruises. Close is good enough. If you want carefree long distance treks you need this service done.
The following thread applies to the current topic of discussion, so in case you haven't seen it yet... here's some good reading..........
using a non-treaded rod ( same diameter of the link pin) to align left and right side of each grouser is important to have the grouser go evenly through the sprocket, using a press works well to make said alignment, adds life to the spool and track, straight links with no bents is much more beneficial to having the tracks move evenly and smoothly, it reduces unnecessary wear on the rollers, spools and rails
and undersized rollers are the death of operation, makes it very easy for the tracks to jump out of the spool and get caught in-between cups, and for a bonus, it will bend the grouser ear, guaranteed, every bend ear is from this situation,
bennyboy followed these words of advice with good results, he did post about his efforts
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Since mine was all apart, I was able to lock it in a vice clamp and use body weight to 'readjust' them. And like PP and Sqwrl said, start with the square to get them true and verify it with a rod.
Thefatsquatch
Active member
I just noticed your pins also don't have a washer. In my mind, that could lead to wear on the cotter pins. Is that something you have experienced, or is it simply not that much wear? Since I need to clean and lube all of my links, I might as well add half a bazillion washers while I am at it, as long as it is necessary.
no washers needed just the links and cotter pins
No room on mine for washers..... they wouldn't fit.
It's easy to assume that they should be there......... but it's bad enough just buying COTTER PINS to replace, washers would just be a nightmare.
It's easy to assume that they should be there......... but it's bad enough just buying COTTER PINS to replace, washers would just be a nightmare.