DIY demolition pole

[underdog]

Ciao spero di non aver sbagliato forum, sono un fabbro, avrei bisogno di costruire un braccio di prolunga da attaccare ad una piccola ruspa cingolata per demolire una vecchia casa in campagna, possi speroate aiutarmi, io allego alcune foto, spero di non aver sbagliato forum , sono italiano quindi potrei fare confusione, grazie

 

[chowderman]

not sure how many folks read Italian, so responses may be limited.

the demo claw(s) all look good - is the question which design is more suitable?
or is the question how to attach it to the bucket?

 

[underdog]

basically we would like to find a steel beam or a tube of adequate section and diameter and bolt it to the bucket of the mechanical shovel. I believe that a 5 meter long pole can support the mechanical shovel and it is sturdy enough. The fixing plate to the bucket must be made. on the opposite side a ram type tip to push the walls and main walls, I would like to find some used or waste material at a scrap dealer or mechanical workshop to save the metal costs more than gold nowadays thanks sorry

FIAT ALLIS FL10B​

descrizione
LARGHEZZA MM

2.140​

ALTEZZA MM

3.040​

LUNGHEZZA MM

4.860​

PESO KG

13.250​

 

[chowderman]

hmmm, a five meter pole/spear is seriously long, and that length can generate an enormous amount of torque at the bucket - both vertical (which could tip the track vehicle front-down) or side-to-side which could deform the mounting and/or turn the track vehicle on its side.... especially true in demolition when lots of stuff comes down unexpectedly - - - and of course, demolition operators tend to operate at top speed, they're not too worried about tearing it down without damaging anything . . .

the small mounting end in those drawings is okay for straight on push/pull, but could easily be damaged if anything puts a left-right load on the pole.

perhaps if you explain more detail of its intended use, suggestions for mounting to the bucket would be easier.

 

[underdog]

we will have to save the expense of the excavator therefore any solution would be optimal, we thought of welding a spike in front of the pole and the grapple and the pole to do it or with a U-beam
or an H-beam, perhaps we drill holes with the torch on the bucket or above the spoon or below in the bottom which is thicker and more resistant and we connect everything with long and large bolts or we make a saddle bracket and anchor the pole to the bucket, perhaps instead of 5 meters we make it 3 meters shorter no for the safety of the operator and the machine I repeat the machine with the arm extended is more than 3 meters perhaps we make a ramp on the ground to raise the machine when pushing what do you think? thanks sorry for the inconvenience

 

[chowderman]

a similar design should work with the dozer bucket - a clip along the bottom over the teeth, wide - spread the load,
a I-beam / aka H-beam welded the the clip, a 'wing' on the beam extending up to the sides of the bucket for side-to-side stability,
make holes in the bucket sides to bolt/pin the side wings.

if you want to pull and well as 'ram' - you'll need a hole&pin in the bucket bottom - perhaps remove a center tooth and use that hole?

you could could taper the end of the beam to a point, for easier penetration.
a 'slip on' hook also possible, using the center web for bolt/pin and the flanges for stability.

is this used for masonry/stone demolition?

 

[underdog]

I still understood the fixing bracket to the bottom of the bucket. I apply the pole when I need it clearly when I have to load I remove the arm, how long do I make it, 4 meters and in the middle I leave it inside the bucket and 3 meters I leave them cantilevered out of the edge of the bucket, at the end I apply a ripper tooth, to strengthen it I put some gussets?

 

[chowderman]

I'm sure you realize, it's simply not possible to do a detailed design-from-afar without the details of the bucket, etc....

however, here's some ideas.
the 'pole' must run parallel to the bottom of the bucket
a U-shaped clip around the bottom of the bucket - almost as wide as the bucket, provides a surface to weld on the "pole:
the back of the pole needs a custom shaped wide plate pad to distribute the the push force and any vertical force.
the lateral brackets provide support for any left-right forces. if you stick the pole in, 'twist' the dozer left/right . . . you can develop very high side loads - that could warp/deform the bucket-to-chassis arms/brackets. they are not designed for high lateral loads.
likely an advantage to cut holes in the U-shape clip so the teeth can protrude thru.

 

[chowderman]

for the point of the pole... if you must penetrate hard stuff - like concrete, brick, stone....
(not much flimsy construction I've seen in Italy . . . )
pointed pole is good.

if you must also "pull" from the penetration, here's an idea for a "clip on" hook - assuming an I-beam pole...

the hook is made with two side plates, the distance between side plates to match the thickness of the beam web.
the 'height' of the side plates to match the beam -
length needs to ensure it has enough leverage to not destruct itself on use.

I would recommend the use of pins vs. bolts. 15-20 mm diameter pin, with head, hole on opposite end for a hairpin clip.
all the dimensions / etc must include generous tolerances, other wise you spend a lot of time attempting to get things lined up and/or released.

 

[underdog]

thanks for the right suggestions, I had also thought about reinforcing the pole with diagonal bolts to distribute the lateral thrust stresses and prevent the arm from bending. Thanks for the precious suggestions, we'll update soon.

LARGHEZZA MM

2.140​

ALTEZZA MM

3.040​

LUNGHEZZA MM

4.860​

PESO KG

13.250​

 

[chowderman]

I certainly understand the idea of protecting the operator - the metal shield / roof in the first photo is a big tip off . . .

I would encourage you to keep it as short as feasible - a simple control twist on the dozer can generate enormous forces due to a long leverage.

 

[underdog]

thanks for the precious suggestion, I will take your words to heart. I think that in front of the tip I will make it without a hook or a grapple type rostrum. If you make the arm short, you risk throwing a wall on top of you and overwhelming and burying the operator and the machinery. I have to carefully evaluate all the unknowns. , the arm must push to throw the rubble into the building if you pull the action you risk the building toppling over like a house of cards on top of the machine involving the operator I must size the pole well nor too short it would be ineffective and inadequate nor too long it would be cantilevered and would pitch but sturdy to avoid bending which would cause it to bend thanks we'll update

 

[m1west]

Thinking on making something like that for the D7 to knock down dead trees on the mountain, Its a cable dozer so I can drop the blade and attach to the mounting lugs by just driving into it and use the cable to set the angle.

 

[underdog]

dozrake -?

thanks for the precious suggestion, I think you were referring to the tool mentioned above, your words and suggestions were very valuable to me, I hope I didn't misunderstand, thank you, regards.

 

[m1west]

 

[m1west]

Little heavier duty, but this is what I am imagining for tree duty with the D7

 

[underdog]

where I come from, they use excavators to uproot large trees, we are trying to adapt the mechanical shovel in an optimal way to save on excavator rental, we are working to find the right beam to create the breaking ram arm, thank you, you have been very kind and very Your suggestions are precious, thank you

 

[chowderman]

for busting up masonry / stone type structures, I'd look for a 75 flange x 100 web I-beam
you won't bend that . . .

the idea of an 'add on' ram tip still applies - once you have punched some holes, a wider / flat plate could be mounted to the beam for extra quick smashing . . .

 

[m1west]

I'm making mine from 6x6x1/4 square tube with an x brace to keep from twisting or racking

 

[underdog]

some photos or some drawings I don't understand the translation maybe you use inches as a measurement and we use mm if I can I'll attach a table of H beams I hope I won't be sanctioned thanks sorry if I insist.

Tabelle

www.oppo.it

Tabella Profilati metallici - Travi IPE

www.oppo.it

Travi IPEA, prontuario ferro, prontuario acciaio

Travi IPEA - Schede Tecniche

www.prontuarionline.it

Tabella Profilati metallici - Travi INP

www.oppo.it

Tabella Profilati metallici - Travi HEA

www.oppo.it