• Please be sure to read the rules and adhere to them. Some banned members have complained that they are not spammers. But they spammed us. Some even tried to redirect our members to other forums. Duh. Be smart. Read the rules and adhere to them and we will all get along just fine. Cheers. :beer: Link to the rules: https://www.forumsforums.com/threads/forum-rules-info.2974/

Dana 35 in jeep help

tommu56

Bronze Member
My wife's pinion bearing went I tore it down carrier bearings were fine I kept the shims and bearings caps all sorted by side I'm going to put the whole assembly back in.
I replaced the bearings crush sleeve seal set pinion to 17 inch lbs for rotary torque
Putting the carrier back in as soon as I snug up the driver's side cap carrier locks up.
I thought if I kept it original I wouldn't have to shim adjustment on carrier?????


Please en lighten me!
 
Mine started leaking 90W and needed a new seal. After removing the yoke, I pressed in with a large screwdriver on
the back of the inner race of the outer bearing. It moved in, and the pinion shaft was solid. So, I made a spacer
from a flat large washer to put in behind the yoke that was as it turned out to be close to the right thickness.
All bolted together there was still backlash in the gear set, and the shaft was solid. That was nearly 100K miles ago on
a 1992 F150. It is still running around the farm to this day when needed.
Usually, the seal goes out and lets the sh1t stain out on the rear door in dust before the pinion bearings are toast. Pinion shaft wallows
out the seal first. I suppose I did crush the preload sleeve a tiny bit when I torqued it all together getting close to correct clearances. Tapered roller bearings are designed to be re-adjusted to lengthen their life in most cases.
 
Mine started leaking 90W and needed a new seal. After removing the yoke, I pressed in with a large screwdriver on
the back of the inner race of the outer bearing. It moved in, and the pinion shaft was solid. So, I made a spacer
from a flat large washer to put in behind the yoke that was as it turned out to be close to the right thickness.
All bolted together there was still backlash in the gear set, and the shaft was solid. That was nearly 100K miles ago on
a 1992 F150. It is still running around the farm to this day when needed.
Usually, the seal goes out and lets the sh1t stain out on the rear door in dust before the pinion bearings are toast. Pinion shaft wallows
out the seal first. I suppose I did crush the preload sleeve a tiny bit when I torqued it all together getting close to correct clearances. Tapered roller bearings are designed to be re-adjusted to lengthen their life in most cases.
I've done complete rebuild on them before and didn't want to have to set carrier bearings shiming so saved the original parts
The seal went and the bearings were sloppy on pinion hence I replaced back cup and bearing crush sleeve front cup and bearing seal ,put that all together with out Carrier set torqued preload to 17 inch pounds on pinion nut like I would normally
 
I broke down and had to set the backlash did I mention I miss my lift laying inder it ain't fun anymore.
 
Top