Bombardier SW54 Project

J5 Bombardier

Active member
Two shafts on a Muskeg , one on a J5, which is bigger in diameter as it is not supported . As for plug welded , don't think so , maybe where they exit the tube , rust usually does the job.
J5 Bombardier
 

77_crew

Member
Two shafts on a Muskeg , one on a J5, which is bigger in diameter as it is not supported . As for plug welded , don't think so , maybe where they exit the tube , rust usually does the job.
J5 Bombardier
Gotcha! When you mentioned two shafts I thought that maybe each side was a stub shaft that was slid inside the tube and secured in there somehow. I can see a Small gap between the shaft and the tube I might get lucky. I’ll have to get the other side apart and see if a little encouragement will get it moving!
 

77_crew

Member
Well, until I can make more progress on the shaft situation, I might as well tell you my plans for the tracks.
I decided to replace the belting as one was torn and the others are originals and toast.
It appeared that I could go slightly wider (1/2”) with the belt and still clear the tub. I contacted one of the local industrial suppliers and has them slice me four pieces of 1/2” thick conveyor belt 5” wide and 22’ long.
 

77_crew

Member
With the rottin old tracks I was having a hard time trying to measure the actual bolt Centers for the grousers (track pitch). They were all over the place between 3 3/4” and 3 5/8”.
i finally found a drawing (on this site I think) of a musket pitch and it indicates that it should be 3 23/32” which is just smaller than 3 3/4” so I went with it!
I put a piece or 4” x 3/8” flat bar in my milling machine and drilled a template bar with 23 sets of holes bang on the pitch.
 

77_crew

Member
I know drilling rubber is a pain most times and that punching usually works better, but I wasn’t to excited about punching 424 holes in 1/2” belt. After some discussions with a machinist friend, I decided to make some Custom “rubber drills”. I started with some 3/8” drill rod, drilled it out, cut a relief in the side, and cut a sharp tip. Its pretty much the same as a punch, but the OD is the desired size instead the ID like most punches.
I clamped the belt between some plywood and my template and the drill worked amazing! I have only drilled the first of the 4 belts, but it literally Took minutes!
 

77_crew

Member
C06FC7EA-A69A-4B2D-BCFF-93B089379AB1.jpeg


The jig set up and first track drilled. You can see the little plugs made by the bit. Perfect holes!
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you can also see in the background of the picture that I’ve started to strip the original track. What a pain in the a** that is.
 

Bobcatbob

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
View attachment 133790

The jig set up and first track drilled. You can see the little plugs made by the bit. Perfect holes!
View attachment 133795

you can also see in the background of the picture that I’ve started to strip the original track. What a pain in the a** that is.
I like the jig! Ingenious way to drill out rubber.....a punch would take forever. Having bought predrilled track from Boggie, you sir are a core purist when it comes to refurbishment...kudos!
 
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77_crew

Member
I like the jig! Ingenious way to drill out rubber.....a punch would take forever. Having bought predrilled track from Boggie, you sir are a core purist when it comes to refurbishment...kudos!
Thanks Bobcatbob, I just try to work with what I got and use some tricks of the trade to help me along. I wish I had the time (and funds 😉) to do a full blown restoration on this thing like you’ve done to your machines, but I have two small kids (1.5 & 4 years old) that keep me from getting as much shop time as I’d like. So hopefully I can get this old girl in reliable/Usable shape to enjoy in the woods Sooner than later. I have habit of never selling anything so perhaps there will be a full restoration In the future with the help of my minions when they get a little older.
 

77_crew

Member
As I dig deeper into the left hand side that I have apart, the more I realize that there’s been some damage and repairs in the past. The front Wheel pivot arm Had been broken and welded at some point, and the ears that attach to the spring in can link bar appear to be homemade as the profiles don’t match that well. One of the link bars had also been cut off and a new hole drilled in it. Between that and the twisted walking beam I decided to take apart the other side to hopefully have some good original parts to compare to.
 

77_crew

Member
I removed to other track and luckly everything on that side Appears to not have been Damaged and messed with. Walking beam is straight, front pivot arm is good, and the link bars are the original length. I think the spring in can has been redone at something but everything else looks straight. Only worn part appears to be the walking beam pivot shaft like the other side so it looks like I’ll be attempting to remove that shaft 😬.
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77_crew

Member
I’ve also cut apart the left side spring in can. I have a piece of 5” spouting that will work perfect. Not sure if I’ll try to salvage the end caps or make new ones. I thought I read somewhere on this site that the spring should be slightly preloaded in the can. Mine didn’t appear that way. My spring is also a couple inches shorter than the can itself. Does anyone have the original dimensions? Ill cut the other side apart to compare and at the very least make them both the same with the number I have.
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In this pic you can also see the weld toward the shaft end of my front wheel pivot arm. The bearing housing of that is also worn through and had a patch welded on it, which I removed. Worse case I’ll machine a new bearing housing, but I might be able to patch it up.
 

77_crew

Member
Not too much to report. I cut the welds on the one half of the walking beam that is twisted and started to straighten it out but not done yet. The other walking beam assembly is all cleaned up and ready for paint. I also cut the other spring can apart and the spring by a quick comparison looks to be the same length as the other side. I’ll confirm this and make both new cans the same.
 

77_crew

Member
A quick question regarding the spring in cans. Both had a piece of tubing floating on the rods inside the spring. We’re these originally welded to the end cap with the hole in it to act as a guide for the rod? Or were they attached to the plate on the end of the spring that the rod attaches to? Mine are both so worn that it’s hard to tell. I’ll probably make new ends for the can anyways, but I’ll attach the tube where it should be in the process.

Thanks in advance!
 

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
Yes.
Drilling the belting is a pain.

Use a "Brad point" type bit and it will cut it right through.....(Just don't hit metal with the bit)
One of these bits will gitterdone quickly......Makes a very clean cut
 

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