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Body prep, and interior for my rebuilt 1991 dodge first gen
- Thread starter m1west
- Start date
Started the bodywork in preparation for paint, got a quote for $4000.00 for a 2 stage paint job that included final priming and block sanding to remove scratches from the 240 grit that I will finish the body work in, also includes the doors and door jams, the interior will also be removed, seats carpet, door panels and weather seals.
All the trim , lights , tail lights, door handles etc, will be removed and re installed by me along with new carpet and sound deadening, recovered seat and headliner. When done it’s a new 1991 w250, engine and complete drivetrain have already been rebuilt with around 5000 miles on it. So far got the emblems and fender flairs removed, and started pulling dents with a paintless dent pulling system ( the pull attachments go on with hot glue ) worked good until some of the paint came off the dent, now doesn’t stick very well, and doesn’t work at all on primer or bare metal.
Just orderd a stud gun type dent puller kit, will be here in a week or so, it’s a stronger system to pull dents, just sand the paint off, shoot an attachment ring onto the metal and use the dent puller to pull the dent. In the old days you drilled a hole for a screw, and the panel looked like Swiss cheese when done. To get the attachment off, just twist it. I’ll get the trim glue off while I’m waiting.
All the trim , lights , tail lights, door handles etc, will be removed and re installed by me along with new carpet and sound deadening, recovered seat and headliner. When done it’s a new 1991 w250, engine and complete drivetrain have already been rebuilt with around 5000 miles on it. So far got the emblems and fender flairs removed, and started pulling dents with a paintless dent pulling system ( the pull attachments go on with hot glue ) worked good until some of the paint came off the dent, now doesn’t stick very well, and doesn’t work at all on primer or bare metal.
Just orderd a stud gun type dent puller kit, will be here in a week or so, it’s a stronger system to pull dents, just sand the paint off, shoot an attachment ring onto the metal and use the dent puller to pull the dent. In the old days you drilled a hole for a screw, and the panel looked like Swiss cheese when done. To get the attachment off, just twist it. I’ll get the trim glue off while I’m waiting.
NorthernRedneck
Well-known member
Nice. If that truck was up here, it would have been a crumbling pile of run about 15 years ago
Still waiting on the stud pull dent puller so I installed a Frantz bypass oil filter onto it today, I bought it a month or more ago, today I changed the oil on the wife’s Land Rover and this truck today so I figured it would be a good time to install the Fratz system, for those not familiar, it takes a small amount of oil, but is continually running through a 2 micron toilet paper type filter in conjunction with your OE filter system. Cummins diesel engines that you hear about that go a million miles normally have this system on the engine. The hardest part was finding a suitable place under the hood to mount it. Top picture is the unit, second picture is the OE oil filter housing where I attached the feed line, third picture is the oil returning inside the oil fill tube. The orifices in the filter are small and the filter is tight so there is no loss of oil pressure.
We used to run "Spinner" bypass oil filters. This is a canister with a paper sleeve on the outer wall of the canister. A small centrifuge. The thing spins at a crazy rpm, driven by the truck's air system. It's crazy the amount of solids this thing collects the first time it's used. And that's after the trucks had been running the big luberfiner bypass filters. At least 3/8" of crud. After the first time. We'd get about 1/8" of crud before oil analysis called for a lube change after that. Mostly Cats, but some Cummins. Way back in the 80's.