Snow Trac Variator

[Hydev]

Hi - The steering on my Snow Trac is unbalanced . I have followed Lydon's instructions and have it jacked up on axle stands etc.. however the top 1" nut is incredible tight. In fact I can't budge it, but it's not obviously rusty, in fact it looks perfectly 'normal'. The bit that worries me is that when I pull really hard on it the whole spring mechanism moves - I'm worried something else will go first.

Secondly, I believe I have the steering wheel centred but when I measure the two pulleys the difference is about 2 or 3 mm. How much difference between the pulleys would you expect for it to be 'centered' What are the tolerances like here?

It should be noted that I could also be dealing with a brake binding issue but I need to start somewhere and that's the easiest bit right here right now

Any help greatly appreciated.

Mike

 

[redsqwrl]

So when you say uncentered do you mean you cant turn one way or the other?

I just go in an open field. Drive straight for a bit. Let go of the wheel it should continue to go straight on its own. If it does. Put a pc of tape at the top of the steering wheel.

Go left right fast slow ect. Tape up should always be straight (centered)

One of the times going straight with the tape up.... stop and measure your sheaves. If they are still off that mm or so. You have some other problem. Like a hung up brake

 

[Cidertom]

Hi - The steering on my Snow Trac is unbalanced . I have followed Lydon's instructions and have it jacked up on axle stands etc.. however the top 1" nut is incredible tight. In fact I can't budge it, but it's not obviously rusty, in fact it looks perfectly 'normal'. The bit that worries me is that when I pull really hard on it the whole spring mechanism moves - I'm worried something else will go first.

Secondly, I believe I have the steering wheel centred but when I measure the two pulleys the difference is about 2 or 3 mm. How much difference between the pulleys would you expect for it to be 'centered' What are the tolerances like here?

It should be noted that I could also be dealing with a brake binding issue but I need to start somewhere and that's the easiest bit right here right now

Any help greatly appreciated.

Mike

When you say the whole spring moves, I assume the rod isn't turning, correct? troubleshoot this first. it shouldn't be that hard. I wouldn't worry about 2-3 mm mine was off over 10 when I first got it. After making new bearing carriers and replacing the bearings I got mine centered by putting reflective targets on the drive sprockets and using those to match the rpms at full travel both right and left using a photo tach. Then later centered the steering wheel by getting them to match and repositioning the wheel on the steering column to where I wanted it. This eliminated the brakes/binding/etc from the steering equation. I will note the engine was out and the drive chains off and I drove the variator with a 5 hp electric motor.

 

[redsqwrl]

When you say the whole spring moves, I assume the rod isn't turning, correct? troubleshoot this first. it shouldn't be that hard. I wouldn't worry about 2-3 mm mine was off over 10 when I first got it. After making new bearing carriers and replacing the bearings I got mine centered by putting reflective targets on the drive sprockets and using those to match the rpms at full travel both right and left using a photo tach. Then later centered the steering wheel by getting them to match and repositioning the wheel on the steering column to where I wanted it. This eliminated the brakes/binding/etc from the steering equation. I will note the engine was out and the drive chains off and I drove the variator with a 5 hp electric motor.

Brilliant

 

[Hydev]

Thanks for the help - there were some questions above:

1. It turns right really well, poorly if at all left.
2. I counted the steering wheel turns lock to lock and then divided by two, and came up with that being centre. I then measured the pulleys and found them to be about 2-3mm difference.
3. I don't have a spare field unfortunately only a drive, but the previous owner warned me it only really steered one way.
4. When I try and turn the nut at the top of the spring assembly it didn't give but instead the unit flexed. I'll try again and video it. I'm just worried of something else bending instead of the nut loosening. I expected it to be damn stiff but moveable. And that's before I get to the bottom, awkward one.
5. I like the idea of the taco on the drive cogs - I'll do that in due course.

It might be I just have to sort the brakes first.

Thanks

Mike

 

[Cidertom]

Thanks for the help - there were some questions above:

1. It turns right really well, poorly if at all left.
2. I counted the steering wheel turns lock to lock and then divided by two, and came up with that being centre. I then measured the pulleys and found them to be about 2-3mm difference.
3. I don't have a spare field unfortunately only a drive, but the previous owner warned me it only really steered one way.
4. When I try and turn the nut at the top of the spring assembly it didn't give but instead the unit flexed. I'll try again and video it. I'm just worried of something else bending instead of the nut loosening. I expected it to be damn stiff but moveable. And that's before I get to the bottom, awkward one.
5. I like the idea of the taco on the drive cogs - I'll do that in due course.

It might be I just have to sort the brakes first.

Thanks

Mike

When my belt gets too loose, it only steers one way well. And your 2-3 mm isn't the issue. The nut should be stiff but it is a one handed operation for me with a 10" wrench. When I have to get to the bottom nut: I looked at the access door provided in the cab. Ya-NO. I looked at pictures of the backwards crowfoot home made wrenches. Ya-NO. I mounted 2, 1/4-20 rivnuts in the intake horn and even with the oil cooler I mounted in it, I can have that sucker out of the way in about 30 seconds with a straight blade screwdriver and then accessing the lower nut is really simple and easy. If the hood is up the horn serves no purpose. I can't leave it off too long as it's the oil cooler air flow, but certainly long enough for adjust. drive straight, back straight, check readjust....

 

[Hydev]

Thanks - it’s definitely not a one handed operation for me I’ll put some penetrator on it. Also it must be the brake grabbing.

In regards the bottom nut, I’m afraid I don’t really understand what you have done to make it easy to access - could you provide some pictures to help me?

Thanks

Mike

 

[redsqwrl]

Yes dont break the eyelet you will be sad.

Soak wax crayon ect to free it up.

 

[Don Coyote]

There sure are a whole bunch of Mikes on this site.

 

[Cidertom]

Thanks - it’s definitely not a one handed operation for me I’ll put some penetrator on it. Also it must be the brake grabbing.

In regards the bottom nut, I’m afraid I don’t really understand what you have done to make it easy to access - could you provide some pictures

Re turning the nut Just for giggles I put a torque wrench on the top nut. 10ft/lb

 

[Hydev]

Thanks! I see what you mean now

 

[Sno-Surfer]

how is your belt? If it's too worn and narrow, you can have the issues you talk about.