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worn out beat up snow trac resto

western auto

Active member
ok....... not as easy as i hoped, i feel like the valve stem hole is in the wrong place , it seems to share a tad bit of real estate with the bead and the tube naturally wants to point inside like a motorcycle , is this the correct location or should i weld it up and drill at 90degrees ( would be very close to the dish at 90deg
 

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Puckle

Well-known member
SUPER Site Supporter
Yes, I've just bought some new tubes myself and find the same thing - perhaps they were special innertubes with side mounted valves - can't seem to find anything like that though.
 

Cidertom

Chionophile
GOLD Site Supporter
I will look to see if I still have tube info. The tubes had the valve offset to one side. I got mine at a motorcycle shop.
 

Cidertom

Chionophile
GOLD Site Supporter
Sorry, I can't find a reciept for the tubes. I brought them at a Motorcycle shop that catered to big bikes (Harley Davidson etc) The valves are offset from center to match the mounting holes in the wheels.
 

western auto

Active member
i wrestled with these for a while yesterday, i lubed them up good, installed the first bead, added a very small amount of air to tube just enough so it wasnt completely under vaccum,i spread the tire out slipped tube in, lined up the stem with hole, then mounted other side, after it was mounted i beat it on the ground a few times to seat the bead , after that i was able to stick my hook pick down the valve stem hole and easily fish the stem through the hole , after doing it this way the stem didnt seem to have any odd stress pulling on it , i removed the valve core and inflated/deflated a few times w a blow gun to settle the tube , i think it will be fine, if i had not already powdercoated the wheel i would drill a hole on the inside
 

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western auto

Active member
started building new luggage rails, used 1" .095 tubing for a little added strength and thats what i had a die availible for, built it a little different than original using one straight long piece and cutting the uprights instead/ spent extra time notching all the tubes tacked it all together then realized after standing back i had a dip in the fender/ after breaking out the contractor string and cutting it apart 2 more times i finally got it right ...... my notches did get a bit more sloppy the 3rd time around but look nice all welded up, hopefully the other side goes a bit better
 

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Moosemeat

Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Yours looks just like mine, just a different color. Must have been owned by the same Operator, beat to shit in all the same places. I've been looking at all the pictures and it looks like everyone eventually uses a Handyman Jack under the center cross member. Jack sinks into the mud, and when its let down it rips the aluminum railing off the fender. Maybe think about a guard in that area to deflect the eventual damage. UHMW?
 

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Puckle

Well-known member
SUPER Site Supporter
Very nice those new rails - I didn't realize myself the track guards aren't straight but rise up at the front - I thought I had got something wrong when I re-built them.
 

western auto

Active member
Yours looks just like mine, just a different color. Must have been owned by the same Operator, beat to shit in all the same places. I've been looking at all the pictures and it looks like everyone eventually uses a Handyman Jack under the center cross member. Jack sinks into the mud, and when its let down it rips the aluminum railing off the fender. Maybe think about a guard in that area to deflect the eventual damage. UHMW?
your turn signals are awesome..... wish i could find a set, i did find lenses for those on ebay germany theres a pic in my steering wheel wanted thread in the for sale wanted section
 

Moosemeat

Member
GOLD Site Supporter
first pic showing bent engine crossmember before i straightened it and pounded a 2x2x1/4 sleeve through it , new tires from mn outdoors arrived, picked up parts to rebuild the brakes, mock up of 1-3/4 exhaust routed under transaxle, picked up a race trim intake with a zenith 32ndix and a 356 knecht sport air cleaner, had to build a carb plate with a throttle cross shaft and move tube in shroud up about 1.5" , few pics of my heater boxes mocked up on an empty case
Beating the 2X2 to reinforce the frame was a gutsy move. I’ll do the same with the cross member above the springs. I was afraid it would get stuck half way. Lots of beating?
 

western auto

Active member
Beating the 2X2 to reinforce the frame was a gutsy move. I’ll do the same with the cross member above the springs. I was afraid it would get stuck half way. Lots of beating?
i welded a wire wheel to a long piece of 3/8 rod and used a drill to make sure the frame rails were clean inside/ chased them out w air hose, coated sleeve and frame w cold galvanized spray, they went in pretty easily with a block and a sledgehammer/ having the rails straight is the key , the 2x2 is not a super tight fit
 

georgeofdesert

Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Beating the 2X2 to reinforce the frame was a gutsy move. I’ll do the same with the cross member above the springs. I was afraid it would get stuck half way. Lots of beating?
Moosemeat, if I may?

While you have the chance also eyeball the 2x2 supporting the front boggies. Mine had a crack running lenghtwise along the lower corner. The brackets seem bendy, also.
 

Moosemeat

Member
GOLD Site Supporter
George, Thanks for the tip, thats my next step. I think after installing 2X2 I'll put the body back on. I'm afraid with all the modifications to the frame that I might have a hard time getting everything to line back up. I should have caught on to all the pictures of other re-builds and left it complete and done a piece at a time. The learning curve is steep but fun.
 

western auto

Active member
got a little busy with work (no help) got side tracked restoring a s300 skid steer so its been a while since ive had time to work on this thing, second new handrail done,left rear skin and new structure done and real close to square , right side will be fun its 1/4 out
 

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western auto

Active member
got pretty fustrated with squaring up the right side ...... i ended up removing the bracing re squaring , welded and re drilled all of the holes, now that everything is straight and solid i am considering removing the short angle iron pieces from the hard top and building a one piece door frame that bolts into the upper and lower body halves completely , may be a bit tight for door fitment but at this point if the door doesnt fit i will cut and narrow it
 

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Puckle

Well-known member
SUPER Site Supporter
Yeah, I ended up re building it 3 times before I got it all square. The full frame on mine works well for strengthening the door area but a nuisance if you want to run it as an open top anytime - probably not an issue in below zero conditions though
 

western auto

Active member
old window panels were badly corroded , broken and full of extra holes......spent all day making 2 new rear window panels and installing 2 door frame uprights, will dissasemble and finish the last bend on top tomorrow / just wanted to besure roof line would be square, hopefully soon i can cut open the roof and get it lined up and door hinges mounted
 

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western auto

Active member
a buddy of mine working in norway was able to camp near Oslo and meet with Niels to pick up my 20 new trelleborg tires.... grabbed a few spares too, i have been scratching my head about an exhaust system thats not too intrusive, junky or cobbled together (i tried a few) and still allow me to remove my inboard brakes without removing my exhaust, i decided to custom order a vintage speed stainless beetle exhaust un finished , it finally arrived but did not fit quite as good as i was hoping, i had to extend the fold a bit on the skidplate braces and i had to whack the exhaust can a bit but it fits good now...... will box in the notches during final assembly, going to use an 1-3/4 stainless 45 deg pipe with a v band flange to attatch to my flex coupler, that should make engine removal very simple..... i hope
 

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redsqwrl

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
no idea how i was able to sleep through this much rebuild, but do you have a serial number on this rig?

the inboard brakes and small wheels have me intrigued.
 

western auto

Active member
its an alex maclarty machine built in 1976 i believe, was yellow originally and has steel front quarter panels
 

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