worn out beat up snow trac resto

Cidertom

Chionophile
GOLD Site Supporter
15 on snow feels faster than it is. In my experience, the suspension isn't good for much more than 20mph and that on really good snow. The other caution is the brakes on snow tracks suck. If you are upping the hp that much, I would also consider reinforcing the upper support wheel mounting.
 
15 on snow feels faster than it is. In my experience, the suspension isn't good for much more than 20mph and that on really good snow. The other caution is the brakes on snow tracks suck. If you are upping the hp that much, I would also consider reinforcing the upper support wheel mounting.
my chassis has been fully sleeved with 2x2x1/4 , i wanted the 4th gear high speed for roading the machine on snow covered graded roads....... maybe i should build a longer swing arm and mount a coil over on my front bogies :unsure:.. i did have thoughts of a 2" lift for more ground clearance but that was just a thought, in fourth i should be around 22 at mph 4000 rpm and 19 mph at 3500 , hopefully my torque monster stroker will hang with that
 
Last edited:
here is the break down for a 3.88 r&p , the 16t/38t factors in an adittional 2.37 final reduction( i divided the mph by this) i went with 15.5" sprocket diameter for these numbers growser height may change that a bit?/ the chart numbers are mph before calculating sprocket reduction
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2620.jpg
    IMG_2620.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 6
  • IMG_2621.jpg
    IMG_2621.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 6

Puckle

Member
Site Supporter
Yeah, my calcs got 19mph at 4000rpm on 4.375 R&P but I treated 4th as 1:1 as I didn't check the ratio when I rebuilt it.
 
a few weeks on and off working on the frone end, bumper straightened, all angle iron pieces heated and bent back to shape, new nuts welded on, converting everything to course thread hardware , front hood latch support straight and rust repaired
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2236.jpg
    IMG_2236.jpg
    691.1 KB · Views: 16
  • IMG_2235.jpg
    IMG_2235.jpg
    530.5 KB · Views: 17
  • IMG_2237.jpg
    IMG_2237.jpg
    661.6 KB · Views: 17
  • IMG_2257.jpg
    IMG_2257.jpg
    536 KB · Views: 17
  • IMG_2349.jpg
    IMG_2349.jpg
    613.3 KB · Views: 17
  • IMG_2348.jpg
    IMG_2348.jpg
    673.8 KB · Views: 17
  • IMG_2350.jpg
    IMG_2350.jpg
    765.5 KB · Views: 16
  • IMG_2351.jpg
    IMG_2351.jpg
    777.5 KB · Views: 16
  • IMG_2352.jpg
    IMG_2352.jpg
    719.7 KB · Views: 16
  • IMG_2364.jpg
    IMG_2364.jpg
    786.9 KB · Views: 17
bent up a new bumper filler, built some new tow hooks, installed a 14ga galvanized 1/4 hole punch plate grille, made some new bumper supports and end caps for the grille
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2366.jpg
    IMG_2366.jpg
    774.9 KB · Views: 18
  • IMG_2367.jpg
    IMG_2367.jpg
    663.9 KB · Views: 18
  • IMG_2372.jpg
    IMG_2372.jpg
    509.9 KB · Views: 17
  • IMG_2373.jpg
    IMG_2373.jpg
    743.7 KB · Views: 17
  • IMG_2374.jpg
    IMG_2374.jpg
    713.9 KB · Views: 16
  • IMG_2376.jpg
    IMG_2376.jpg
    614.8 KB · Views: 16
  • IMG_2375.jpg
    IMG_2375.jpg
    611.4 KB · Views: 16
  • IMG_2377.jpg
    IMG_2377.jpg
    843.6 KB · Views: 16
  • IMG_2388.jpg
    IMG_2388.jpg
    668 KB · Views: 17
  • IMG_2389.jpg
    IMG_2389.jpg
    776.6 KB · Views: 19
few more pics , bent up 2 new rear body skins.... will wait on those untill both new cargo rails are built and fenders are properly supported
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2390.jpg
    IMG_2390.jpg
    738.9 KB · Views: 12
  • IMG_2391.jpg
    IMG_2391.jpg
    776.2 KB · Views: 12
  • IMG_2392.jpg
    IMG_2392.jpg
    764.8 KB · Views: 12
  • IMG_2393.jpg
    IMG_2393.jpg
    607.6 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_2394.jpg
    IMG_2394.jpg
    743.8 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_2395.jpg
    IMG_2395.jpg
    525.2 KB · Views: 13
thanks pjl, i picked up my powdercoated wheels, i bought tires and high pressure tubes from minnesota outdoors..........Do i need to install rim liners or just baby powder the tubes and put them in??
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2560.jpg
    IMG_2560.jpg
    554.6 KB · Views: 4
  • IMG_2561.jpg
    IMG_2561.jpg
    908.1 KB · Views: 5
ok....... not as easy as i hoped, i feel like the valve stem hole is in the wrong place , it seems to share a tad bit of real estate with the bead and the tube naturally wants to point inside like a motorcycle , is this the correct location or should i weld it up and drill at 90degrees ( would be very close to the dish at 90deg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2676.jpg
    IMG_2676.jpg
    525.1 KB · Views: 9
  • IMG_2677.jpg
    IMG_2677.jpg
    538.8 KB · Views: 9
  • IMG_2678.jpg
    IMG_2678.jpg
    575 KB · Views: 9

Puckle

Member
Site Supporter
Yes, I've just bought some new tubes myself and find the same thing - perhaps they were special innertubes with side mounted valves - can't seem to find anything like that though.
 

Cidertom

Chionophile
GOLD Site Supporter
I will look to see if I still have tube info. The tubes had the valve offset to one side. I got mine at a motorcycle shop.
 

Cidertom

Chionophile
GOLD Site Supporter
Sorry, I can't find a reciept for the tubes. I brought them at a Motorcycle shop that catered to big bikes (Harley Davidson etc) The valves are offset from center to match the mounting holes in the wheels.
 
i wrestled with these for a while yesterday, i lubed them up good, installed the first bead, added a very small amount of air to tube just enough so it wasnt completely under vaccum,i spread the tire out slipped tube in, lined up the stem with hole, then mounted other side, after it was mounted i beat it on the ground a few times to seat the bead , after that i was able to stick my hook pick down the valve stem hole and easily fish the stem through the hole , after doing it this way the stem didnt seem to have any odd stress pulling on it , i removed the valve core and inflated/deflated a few times w a blow gun to settle the tube , i think it will be fine, if i had not already powdercoated the wheel i would drill a hole on the inside
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2695.jpg
    IMG_2695.jpg
    447.4 KB · Views: 5
started building new luggage rails, used 1" .095 tubing for a little added strength and thats what i had a die availible for, built it a little different than original using one straight long piece and cutting the uprights instead/ spent extra time notching all the tubes tacked it all together then realized after standing back i had a dip in the fender/ after breaking out the contractor string and cutting it apart 2 more times i finally got it right ...... my notches did get a bit more sloppy the 3rd time around but look nice all welded up, hopefully the other side goes a bit better
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2434.jpg
    IMG_2434.jpg
    645.8 KB · Views: 9
  • IMG_2435.jpg
    IMG_2435.jpg
    445.5 KB · Views: 9
  • IMG_2436.jpg
    IMG_2436.jpg
    673.4 KB · Views: 9
  • IMG_2437.jpg
    IMG_2437.jpg
    700.7 KB · Views: 9
  • IMG_2472.jpg
    IMG_2472.jpg
    606.8 KB · Views: 9
  • IMG_2473.jpg
    IMG_2473.jpg
    470.6 KB · Views: 9
  • IMG_2474.jpg
    IMG_2474.jpg
    634.7 KB · Views: 9
  • IMG_2475.jpg
    IMG_2475.jpg
    700.1 KB · Views: 9
  • IMG_2476.jpg
    IMG_2476.jpg
    640.2 KB · Views: 9
  • IMG_2537.jpg
    IMG_2537.jpg
    583.7 KB · Views: 9

Moosemeat

New member
GOLD Site Supporter
Yours looks just like mine, just a different color. Must have been owned by the same Operator, beat to shit in all the same places. I've been looking at all the pictures and it looks like everyone eventually uses a Handyman Jack under the center cross member. Jack sinks into the mud, and when its let down it rips the aluminum railing off the fender. Maybe think about a guard in that area to deflect the eventual damage. UHMW?
 

Attachments

  • 6CF1493F-6FA5-4554-BB92-751470E9E530.jpeg
    6CF1493F-6FA5-4554-BB92-751470E9E530.jpeg
    107 KB · Views: 7

Puckle

Member
Site Supporter
Very nice those new rails - I didn't realize myself the track guards aren't straight but rise up at the front - I thought I had got something wrong when I re-built them.
 
Top