What starter do you recommend?

[rockaukum]

Hey all,
I have a 70 1202B, 200 ci I6 ford industrial engine. What is happening, randomly it won't start, the bendix spins but does not engage the flywheel. I have been told this is a common feature with ford motors. I carry a stick that I can tap on the starter. After a few taps it will engage and start. It has been recommended not to get a rebuilt starter and go new. There are a lot of rebuilt ones out there but new is kinda scarce around here. So, any suggestions on what to get and possible locations to source one? By the way, this cat has the manual transmission.
Thank you for suggestions,
ra

 

[J5 Bombardier]

I would try a rebuilt, lots of them around and the price is right. Most of the time I had solenoid problems when I had pickups/broncos , at least it was handy to get at. Post some pics if you get a chance.
J5 Bombardier

 

[rockaukum]

J5,
Thanks for the input. It is looking like that will be the route I take. I have swapped out the solenoid first thinking it was not getting the full juice but to no avail....
ra

 

[zspryte]

With rebuilt it is the luck of the draw. I installed a rebuilt NAPA 76061 (9 teeth) that lasted four years before breaking a tooth. Then I tried NAPA's better quality rebuilt version 244-9622 (a.k.a. RAY 2449622), but got a dud that won't engage so returned it and got a brand new PowerMaster 3131 starter. I have 5 years on it now. My Spryte has the 170 CID, but supposedly it uses the same starter as in the 200.

Peterson says the 170 starter number was OCA313. NAPA new starter 4N9622 is cheaper than the PowerMaster.

 

[rockaukum]

Wow what a day! Drove the 45 minutes to Napa to grab a rebuilt starter. Got home and pulled out of the box to find it was broken. Seems like it was dropped and the housing that bolts to the motor was way out of alignment. So I removed the two bolts to straighten it out only to find the end piece had broken pieced inside it. Called around to source another one then removed the one from the machine. Comparing the two, I find they are different! I tried the broken one to check fitment and it will not fit. The part that stick out to accommodate the bendix mechanism hits the block. The one that came out of the machine is a Ultima 03-0221. So I guess Ill have to just source the same model to ensure fitment. Doing a brief search I see the Ultima has three mounting holes where the one I got has two. It appears the third one will not interfere with anything but not sure. Any suggestions?
Thanks for following...

 

[zspryte]

Do some web research before you make another purchase!

Ford used both 2 and 3 bolts on their starters for 6-cylinder engines (3 for manual and 2 for automatic), and two different starter diameters. The larger dia has more torque. Ford web sites for "classic" trucks and cars (Mustang, Falcon, etc.) often contain good starter information (start here https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/ford-amc-motorcraft-starters then look at https://fordsix.com/threads/starter-swaps-for-the-250s-200s-other-small-sixes.80808/ or others). Beware the 2 and 3 bolt versions have bolts 1 and 2 in the same location so they appear interchangeable, but how deep the engagement gear travels as well as some other things like number of teeth can differ.

The Powermaster 3131 uses 3 bolts and is supposed to fit 200 CID Fords between 1965-1980. You can try to cross-reference that number or the others I listed to the brand you want if the years are right.

 

[rockaukum]

Hey thank you for the information! My 1202B is a manual transmission and has the two bolt configuration? I'll check the references you suggested and go from there. I have been using the ford falcon as a reference as, well you know, snowcat what? is the normal reply when seeking information or parts at the shops.
ra

 

[rockaukum]

Here are two photos containing the old and new starter.
They are 4.5" in diameter, two spline.
Notice how they are clocked opposite of each other.
The new one hits the block when held in place.

 

[zspryte]

I've never taken a starter apart, but is there any chance your old starter end with the gear was turned 180 degrees to make it work? I'm not suggesting you do the same, but it might explain things and make finding a new one easier.

The model number on my first starter was not readable, but a NAPA gray beard took one look at it, went into the stock room and returned with a new one. After he checked the number of teeth and gear travel, he said it was a match. Got any NAPA gray beards near you?

Good luck -

 

[rockaukum]

I went to town today and hit up twos shops that don't need make and model ect.... We were able to source the exact same starter and it will be in tomorrow. So hopefully I'll be all set. I had my starter with me and compared the alignment and all looked good.
I had taken it apart before to clean it up a bit. I was getting close to looking into a rebuild kit and just do it myself.
No, it was not indexed as there was only one notch on the cone for alignment purposes.

 

[rockaukum]

Alright, lets close this one out for now. I was able to source a replacement starter the other day. I ended up with a Remy #25221 from a local parts house that had books and a bit of patience. His first questions was make and model. So, I said Thiokol 1202B. He was able to source it but took a bit more research to find a comparable fit.
It is in the cat now and worked just fine. I drove it around the field a bit to warm it up. Which is when the starter faltered. I shut it down and it fired right back up. WooHoo!
Thanks for the insight and resources provided,
ra