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Tucker Foot Brake Sticking

Track Addict

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Turning to the pros. Never messed with one of these.

The foot brake when applied works but then the caliper doesn't release enough. I had to crack the bleed screw to release the caliper pad pressure.

Everything was smoking hot.

What should I look for and what the fix?

2C3438BF-5D24-4D76-B4AA-7878EBFADCE4.jpeg
 

PJL

Well-known member
My guess is master cylinder. There is a port that is closed when pedal applied and opens when released. Pushrod adjustment? Something hanging up in the pedal assembly. Gunked up corroded master cylinder.
diagram-master-cylinder.jpg
 

230 Pilot

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Turning to the pros. Never messed with one of these.

The foot brake when applied works but then the caliper doesn't release enough. I had to crack the bleed screw to release the caliper pad pressure.

Everything was smoking hot.

What should I look for and what the fix?

View attachment 132779
The pins that the caliper float on often get corroded, and the caliper sticks to one side on the rust. You pull the pins out and wire wheel them, put them back in with never-sieze on them , quite often will take care of it.
 

Blackfoot Tucker

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As an FYI, The caliper is (I believe) from a 1966 Ford Thunderbird. It's a four piston caliper but unfortunately I can't remember if it's the left or right side (front). Sometime later Tucker went to a caliper from a GM pickup. My guess is it's not because the GM caliper was superior. More likely it was cheaper...
 

Pontoon Princess

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the brake caliper was made by Kelsey Hayes, Thunderbird was just one of several cars that use that very caliper, and yes far superior to the GM and twice the price, lots of the issues come from lack of use, more than anythings else, quite sure it worked just fine when you parked it last March...Right?

total rebuild, I have source of new and also quality rebuilt
 
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PJL

Well-known member
A stuck caliper most likely won't release the pressure on the pads if you crack the bleeder.

But if you repair one you should do the other at the same time. Just my 2 cents.
 

Track Addict

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What's interesting is when I test rode it in the backseat when I was hobbled like the writer in Misery it did the same thing.

Once or twice more or happened which I thought was from the peddle sticking on the column.

Went out tonight for 5 miles on the hand brake no issues but didnt use the foot and the bleed is open.

Will disect this week. Clutch and brake share the same master reservoir.
 

HankScorpio

Member
The master cylinder is from a 60's model 2 ton GM truck. The regular pickup one doesn't have the right bores, it looks the same and will bolt in but the hydraulic ratio is wrong. I was quoted something like $500 from tucker for the part. I got one from RockAuto for $50. I will see if I have a part #.
 

HankScorpio

Member
Cant find the order in my email, been 2 yrs now. I will check in my notebook and see if I wrote the part # down. Check the bore diameter, 1 1/8" and 1 1/4" seem to be the 2 sizes. There are masters with both small, both big and one of each. If your bores aren't that corroded they are rebuildable too.
 

Track Addict

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Napa 34956 1 1/4 bore

Others are 1 1/8 or like stated above both. Will have to remove and measure but I think that's right.
 

sno-drifter

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Here is your master cyl. Used on 1961 GMC 1/2 ton carryall. Both bores 1 1/8. If you are replacing I would drill and NPT the reservoir and add a clear plastic additional reservoir. This makes adding and checking fluid level much easier. Make sure you think about the elevation as the cover on the master is vented.
 

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HankScorpio

Member
Looking at the pic it is just like my Tucker. I think when you pull it off you will find the bores to be 2 different sizes.
 

Mill666er

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My ‘81 tucker with the Allison automatic has a double bore master cylinder and I could not cross the number to anything available. Not sure if it is the same part number as yours but took it to NAPA and all they could do was special order a rebuild kit for $80. The bores were different sizes and the clutch side was standard but the brake side was not. I had both issues, stuck caliper and fluid not returning to reservoir. I don’t remember all of the details but mechanic friend said it was a common problem and had me drill a hole in the new rebuild kit but forgot where it was.

first time the brake got stuck I didn’t know it until smoke was coming in through floor.
 

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Track Addict

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Same as yours Rob.

Mr Drifter that part # seems to be both 1 1/8 bores?

Leaking here so that's a give away.

1 1/4 brake 1 1/8 clutch looking at the different bore sizes.
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Track Addict

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Here is the final info that I have found.

Original Part=GM #3773856 1 1/4" Brake Bore 1 1/8" Clutch Bore
I could not cross this to anything but that is the casting number.

Raybestos MC19089 1 1/4" Brake Bore 1 1/4" Clutch Bore
Raybestos MC34404 1 1/8" Brake Bore 1 1/8" Clutch Bore

Centric 130.80018 1 1/4" Brake Bore 1 1/8" Clutch Bore
This would have been off an early 60's C80 or 2 tonish truck.

The Centric part is the correct one but... Centric option is 150$ as well as any other option with 1 1/4" dual bores if you wanted to make the case to step up the clutch bore. These are also not a readily available.

I think the wise experienced Sno-Drifter has already learned a few things for us and is passing it along subtle. The Raybestos MC34404 which has dual 1 1/8" bores is a readily available part and costs under 50$ or 1/3 of the Centric option. Quite possibly the reduction of brake bore size is an improvement due to allowing for a longer pedal throw and could reduce the sticking issue?

That sounds like the way to go. How about the fluid? Brake fluid or other option like ATF?
 

DAVENET

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I used Centric #130.80003. But my foot brake is ’inactive’. (not there). $46 at carid.com
 

HankScorpio

Member
I tried ordering the master for the light duty truck. It had both bores the same size. Everything bolted right up and then didn't work. The hydraulic ratio was wrong and I ended up pulling it out and ordering the 2 ton one with the 2 different bores. I was having trouble confirming actual bore diameters so I just ordered one to see what happened with the same reasoning that the pedal travel and feel would be just a bit different. It just plain didn't work. I still have the one that didn't work out in the shop, I can check the part #, I think its in a Raybestos box. I am travelling and won't be back until monday night to take a look. Get the right bores, even if it costs a bit more.
 

sledhead Ed

Member
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Brian putting a smaller bore mastercyl. for brakes will give you a lower and probably soft pedal. Putting in a larger bore than what it came with give you a higher pedal and [harder].
We used to put f450 masters on f350s to give it a much better pedal feel especially if you carried or towed a lot of weight.
 

Track Addict

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Verdict is in. The smaller bore master works. The cab is so tight it gives some more pedal throw I need to get my foot on it. Locks up tight!

Drifter making it great again!
 

Kenncrew

Member
the brake caliper was made by Kelsey Hayes, Thunderbird was just one of several cars that use that very caliper, and yes far superior to the GM and twice the price, lots of the issues come from lack of use, more than anythings else, quite sure it worked just fine when you parked it last March...Right?

total rebuild, I have source of new and also quality rebuilt
Hi, would you happen to know how to find this brake caliper. 1974
IMG_20221103_165401.jpg
 

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Track Addict

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It’s a ford thunderbird left or right front caliper.

Got one from Rock auto or doorman. Had to swap the original line for the dual caliper to the new caliper for clearance.

Hit up Lake Tucker. He did the most recent replacement last year I think. If he can’t help I’ll dig deeper but it’s an available part. Blackfoot Tucker might have had a post also.
 

Track Addict

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Here you go!

Blackfoot Tucker you are my hero! 1966 Thunderbird, right side looks perfect. Centric reman #14261001 or Cardone reman #184402. thank you again
 

mtncrawler

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Glad it's fixed. Going back to post #1 I had a similar problem on a pickup truck one that turned out to be water in the brake system. Brake fluid attracts moisture and this was an older truck that would drag one wheel after the brake pedal was applied first thing on a very cold morning. Bled out all the old brake fluid with new and fixed it. Surprised me that could happen so I just wanted to share.
 

Tacoman

Member
Here is the final info that I have found.

Original Part=GM #3773856 1 1/4" Brake Bore 1 1/8" Clutch Bore
I could not cross this to anything but that is the casting number.

Raybestos MC19089 1 1/4" Brake Bore 1 1/4" Clutch Bore
Raybestos MC34404 1 1/8" Brake Bore 1 1/8" Clutch Bore

Centric 130.80018 1 1/4" Brake Bore 1 1/8" Clutch Bore
This would have been off an early 60's C80 or 2 tonish truck.

The Centric part is the correct one but... Centric option is 150$ as well as any other option with 1 1/4" dual bores if you wanted to make the case to step up the clutch bore. These are also not a readily available.

I think the wise experienced Sno-Drifter has already learned a few things for us and is passing it along subtle. The Raybestos MC34404 which has dual 1 1/8" bores is a readily available part and costs under 50$ or 1/3 of the Centric option. Quite possibly the reduction of brake bore size is an improvement due to allowing for a longer pedal throw and could reduce the sticking issue?

That sounds like the way to go. How about the fluid? Brake fluid or other option like ATF?
Hi
I found some different information. It is all based on replacing a bad master cylinder on a 1984 Tucker 1342. It was very difficult to find the cross-over part and bore dimensions.

The master cylinder was listed as a Delco 2621179 on the Tucker build sheet. Glad I had that.
Previous owner had replaced it with a master that had 1-1/8 bore cylinders for both brake and clutch. I don't know the brand but it looked like a POS. Rough casting, bad finish etc. It was only a couple of years old, according to the previous owner. There was internal rust in the bores. Clutch almost frozen and master brake cylinder was leaking.
The Delco 2621179 crossed over to a Raybestos MC19089 on RockAuto for $160 shipping extra.
The Raybestos Catalog shows the master to be 1-1/4 brake bore and 1-1/8 clutch bore.
Bought one from Amazon for $112 shipped. Very good deal all considered. If you know the part number, Amazon is generally pretty cheap. Shipping is fast and free with prime.
Ordered one, measured that bores and the Raybestos catalog and the Rockauto crossover are correct.
It fits the existing mounting.
I am going to install it in the next couple days. Flush everything and have a good look at the brake calipers. I hope it is compatible with slave cylinders currently on the machine. Who knows, someone may have known something and changed the brake caliper to be compatible with the master.

John
 
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