Tucker Foot Brake Sticking

Track Addict

Bronze Member
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Turning to the pros. Never messed with one of these.

The foot brake when applied works but then the caliper doesn't release enough. I had to crack the bleed screw to release the caliper pad pressure.

Everything was smoking hot.

What should I look for and what the fix?

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PJL

Well-known member
My guess is master cylinder. There is a port that is closed when pedal applied and opens when released. Pushrod adjustment? Something hanging up in the pedal assembly. Gunked up corroded master cylinder.
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230 Pilot

Member
Turning to the pros. Never messed with one of these.

The foot brake when applied works but then the caliper doesn't release enough. I had to crack the bleed screw to release the caliper pad pressure.

Everything was smoking hot.

What should I look for and what the fix?

View attachment 132779
The pins that the caliper float on often get corroded, and the caliper sticks to one side on the rust. You pull the pins out and wire wheel them, put them back in with never-sieze on them , quite often will take care of it.
 

Blackfoot Tucker

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As an FYI, The caliper is (I believe) from a 1966 Ford Thunderbird. It's a four piston caliper but unfortunately I can't remember if it's the left or right side (front). Sometime later Tucker went to a caliper from a GM pickup. My guess is it's not because the GM caliper was superior. More likely it was cheaper...
 

Pontoon Princess

Cattitute
GOLD Site Supporter
the brake caliper was made by Kelsey Hayes, Thunderbird was just one of several cars that use that very caliper, and yes far superior to the GM and twice the price, lots of the issues come from lack of use, more than anythings else, quite sure it worked just fine when you parked it last March...Right?

total rebuild, I have source of new and also quality rebuilt
 
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PJL

Well-known member
A stuck caliper most likely won't release the pressure on the pads if you crack the bleeder.

But if you repair one you should do the other at the same time. Just my 2 cents.
 

Track Addict

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What's interesting is when I test rode it in the backseat when I was hobbled like the writer in Misery it did the same thing.

Once or twice more or happened which I thought was from the peddle sticking on the column.

Went out tonight for 5 miles on the hand brake no issues but didnt use the foot and the bleed is open.

Will disect this week. Clutch and brake share the same master reservoir.
 

HankScorpio

Member
The master cylinder is from a 60's model 2 ton GM truck. The regular pickup one doesn't have the right bores, it looks the same and will bolt in but the hydraulic ratio is wrong. I was quoted something like $500 from tucker for the part. I got one from RockAuto for $50. I will see if I have a part #.
 

HankScorpio

Member
Cant find the order in my email, been 2 yrs now. I will check in my notebook and see if I wrote the part # down. Check the bore diameter, 1 1/8" and 1 1/4" seem to be the 2 sizes. There are masters with both small, both big and one of each. If your bores aren't that corroded they are rebuildable too.
 

Track Addict

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Napa 34956 1 1/4 bore

Others are 1 1/8 or like stated above both. Will have to remove and measure but I think that's right.
 

sno-drifter

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Here is your master cyl. Used on 1961 GMC 1/2 ton carryall. Both bores 1 1/8. If you are replacing I would drill and NPT the reservoir and add a clear plastic additional reservoir. This makes adding and checking fluid level much easier. Make sure you think about the elevation as the cover on the master is vented.
 

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HankScorpio

Member
Looking at the pic it is just like my Tucker. I think when you pull it off you will find the bores to be 2 different sizes.
 

Mill666er

Active member
SUPER Site Supporter
My ‘81 tucker with the Allison automatic has a double bore master cylinder and I could not cross the number to anything available. Not sure if it is the same part number as yours but took it to NAPA and all they could do was special order a rebuild kit for $80. The bores were different sizes and the clutch side was standard but the brake side was not. I had both issues, stuck caliper and fluid not returning to reservoir. I don’t remember all of the details but mechanic friend said it was a common problem and had me drill a hole in the new rebuild kit but forgot where it was.

first time the brake got stuck I didn’t know it until smoke was coming in through floor.
 

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Track Addict

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Same as yours Rob.

Mr Drifter that part # seems to be both 1 1/8 bores?

Leaking here so that's a give away.

1 1/4 brake 1 1/8 clutch looking at the different bore sizes.
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