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Remote programming technique (or not??)

Hi,

So I've searched and read, and searched and read some more... I'm at my friggin' wit's end. I have a new remote and I can't get the car to go into -- push the remote button(s) to program -- mode.

I can get easily to the first blinking clock light --ready to enter code -- mode, and (successfully?) enter the code numbers with the light coming on after each digit entry. The problem lies in that the light doesn't even blink after I've put in the code. Yes, I've tried to wait at least 15 seconds just for the heck of it.

I got the code from the dealer (for free at Carlsen I might add), and it has four codes on it:

ignition lock/alarm system code XXXX
Anlerncode / Learning Code YYYY
immobiliser code YYYY
radio code ZZZZ

I'm assuming I should use the immobilizer code (which is the same as the Anlerncode / Learning Code YYYY). I've also tried the ignition lock / alarm system code to no avail ge remote codes.

Has anybody seen all these codes for their car? And if so, which one is used to programming the remote?

Ok, so here's my method...

I use exactly the method posed by hogged except that instead of waiting 3 minutes after unlocking the car, I wait 90 seconds after removing the key from the ignition (after just having turned the ignition off).

Quote:
Originally Posted by hogged
Ya hey, finally someone local. I got my car from Chicago. If you can't get this to work come on over.

This is what worked for me after I fixed the two different problems with my alarm (plagiarized from the repair manual):

1. Unlock the car with the remote and wait at least 3 minutes for the immobilizer to prime.

2. Switch the ignition on. The warning light (looks like a remote symbol) in the clock will go on and then off after 15 seconds.

3. Switch the ignition off and on again within 5 seconds. The warning light in the clock will light up and start to flash after 15 seconds.

4. Start to enter the key code within 5 seconds. Enter the code by turning the key off-on for each digit of the code. Wait for the warning light in the clock to come back on between each digit of the code. For example 1302

1 = ignition off-on
wait for the warning light to come on
3 = ignition off-on, off-on, off-on
wait for the warning light to come on
0= ignition off-on (10 times)
wait for the warning light to come on
2=ignition off-on, off-on

5. If the number was entered correctly the warning light will flash after the last digit is entered. When the light is flashing the remote can be programmed and MUST be programmed within one minute.

6. Press the button on the remote until the LED of the alarm system flashes. Operate all the remotes one after the other, wait for the LED to flash after each.

7. When all of the remotes are programmed (no more than 4) switch the ignition off.
I get to the point of the clock remote light blinking, signaling that it's ready to enter the code. I think, and maybe I'm wrong, that as long as I get to the blinking light, it's prepared to hear the code.

The obligatory pre-conditions for successful programming that I have assured:
  • Doors, hood, rear deck, and glove box are closed
  • The alarm system always makes it to the single, ~.5Hz blink when armed, after the 10 second fast blinking right after pushing the remote button.
  • Factory stereo head, green wire DISCONNECTED (and covered) because alarm self-tests won't pass with it connected. I have an aftermarket amplifier installed, with the factory amp disconnected. Maybe the green wire needs ground through the factory amp?? Anyways, the alarm gives me the "healthy" blinking when the wire is disconnected.

After all of this, I can't get the clock light to blink the second time. I've tried different methods of key turning - all the way off then back on, - just to the first click then back on, and - two little clicks then back on.

Is it possible that the immobilizer was replaced by a previous owner, so the code is actually different than the one the dealer gave me?

Is the first blinking light making me think I'm good, but really I'm screwed? Is the single alarm blinking when I lock the car giving me the false impression that the alarm passes all of its self-tests?

What am I doing wrong?
banghead.gif
 
Last edited:

Doc

Administrator
Staff member
I see you registered from a Poland IP, posted from Germany. You don't say what kind of car you are dealing with. Hard to tell what you are doing wrong. Most on here are in USA. If it were me I'd go to a dealer for the make car you have. When I had an issue similar to this a car salesman at the lot was able to get the remote working as intended.
 
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