-
Please be sure to read the rules and adhere to them. Some banned members have complained that they are not spammers. But they spammed us. Some even tried to redirect our members to other forums. Duh. Be smart. Read the rules and adhere to them and we will all get along just fine. Cheers. :beer: Link to the rules: https://www.forumsforums.com/threads/forum-rules-info.2974/
Plug gap on ford industrial engine
- Thread starter rockaukum
- Start date
vintagebike
Well-known member
My Bombardier SV200 also blew out a new Pertronics Ignitor l. Turns out they fail if the ignition is left on ,engine not turning, for more than a short while. The Pertronics Ignitor ll (and the lll) solved this problem for me.
I did read that somewhere. Do you know if the ignitor II solves that issue? I will soon will be working on the electrical and think the key will be on for an extended time.... If so, I guess I can just disconnect the hot lead from the coil.
No news on plug gap?
Perhaps a different approach. If I went to an auto parts store, What vehicle would get me the right parts? This is a 1971 1202b-38. Have found some similarities with mustang, it think it was 68?
No news on plug gap?
Perhaps a different approach. If I went to an auto parts store, What vehicle would get me the right parts? This is a 1971 1202b-38. Have found some similarities with mustang, it think it was 68?
vintagebike
Well-known member
Yes, Pertronix admits that it is an issue. We installed the Ignitor ll that has circuitry to prevent the damage as well as improved dwell control and increased spark voltage when using a low ohm coil. So far, so good but I will carry emergency points just in case and maybe an extra Ignitor ll too. 😉 Our ST4 is being upgraded from an Ignitor l to Ignitor lll with rev control using their Bosch 09 style distributor. Plug gap for Ford L6 engines is often listed between .025 and .035 but itseems to make little difference with the Ignitor ll system.
Last edited:
Thebartman
Active member
Maybe this will help….
1965-69 Ford & Mercury Tune-up Specifications
1965-75 Ford & Mercury engine tune-up specifications including timing, dwell angle, and spark plug gap, and firing order.
www.tpocr.com
andyv916
Member
Hey guys , I used the Hot spark ignition mod and also added the optional resistor they offer with it . it has been flawless i also used it in my 1966 Mustang witch has the same engine the ford 200 CID .
A great place to buy parts for your engine is cjponyparts.com .
A great place to buy parts for your engine is cjponyparts.com .
Hot Spark Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit Replaces Points - All Underneath the Distributor Cap
Replace Ignition Breaker Points with Electronic Ignition: No External Ignition Box Needed
hot-spark.com
I'm back with more questions.
So the replaced ignitor II also failed! Bummer. I contacted the mfgr and spoke with them. They kindly replaced the kit. From speaking with the rep, I "think" I have located the issue that caused the failures. The plate within the distributor needs to be grounded via a wire, which was there. I have check for continuity between the plate and the engine. It was there and then it was not. There was a lot of "gunk" build up on the block as well as where the clamp for the distributor is located. This, I was informed is how the distributor is grounded to the engine. I have cleaned the area up and put a wire wheel to the mount location as well as the locking clamp and now have a consistent ground contact. Ran the other tests and it fired up.
So, the one thing I have been unable to determine is on the power line from the keyed switch to the coil. I traced it and it looks fine, however it is the original wire.
Can anyone clarify if a 1971 1202B had a resistance wire or not?
If it did, I'll just run a separate wire from the keyed source to the coil.
I have purchase a spare set of points and condenser just in case...
As always, thanks for any and all advise...
rockaukum
So the replaced ignitor II also failed! Bummer. I contacted the mfgr and spoke with them. They kindly replaced the kit. From speaking with the rep, I "think" I have located the issue that caused the failures. The plate within the distributor needs to be grounded via a wire, which was there. I have check for continuity between the plate and the engine. It was there and then it was not. There was a lot of "gunk" build up on the block as well as where the clamp for the distributor is located. This, I was informed is how the distributor is grounded to the engine. I have cleaned the area up and put a wire wheel to the mount location as well as the locking clamp and now have a consistent ground contact. Ran the other tests and it fired up.
So, the one thing I have been unable to determine is on the power line from the keyed switch to the coil. I traced it and it looks fine, however it is the original wire.
Can anyone clarify if a 1971 1202B had a resistance wire or not?
If it did, I'll just run a separate wire from the keyed source to the coil.
I have purchase a spare set of points and condenser just in case...
As always, thanks for any and all advise...
rockaukum
redsqwrl,
Thanks for the information. If you don't mind, can you give me a little information on the ballast resistors? Specifically a part number of specifications on the resistor and the location of it within the cat? This unit came with the pertronix and I have had an issue with it. So I want to carry a spare setup with points but will need the ballast resistor as well.
Thank you very much!
rocklaukum
Thanks for the information. If you don't mind, can you give me a little information on the ballast resistors? Specifically a part number of specifications on the resistor and the location of it within the cat? This unit came with the pertronix and I have had an issue with it. So I want to carry a spare setup with points but will need the ballast resistor as well.
Thank you very much!
rocklaukum