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Looking for a muffler patch. Any recommendations?

Some more muffler patches ...

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Glowing red isn't normal I'd check the spark arrester if that is clear I'd probably take it off and try rodding it
No spark arrestor.
With the engine running, there's plenty of exhaust flow coming out the pipe.
With those 2 big cracks still in play (since the JB weld blew out), I took a leaf blower to the exhaust pipe and blew into the muffler, there was no obstruction and the air blew cleanly out of those 2 cracks. No soot blew out.

I just put the muffler tape on an hour ago. 5 layers deep over the holes per instructions. Waiting for it to dry. Once it dries, I'm going to take metal zip ties and wrap around the muffler and over the 2 cracks, hoping to better keep the patch in place.

If this fails, it's going to a welder, after that, new muffler.

I looked yesterday and yea, it looks like I'll have to lift the engine out some to install a new muffler. Not so much that I'll have to disconnect electric, cables... but still a PITA. Oh, and a new muffler is around $400. Ear plugs are $40. I may just run it with the muffler holes and annoy everyone with the noise.

BTW, this machine is over 20 years old. Dealers are selling them for around $2K but this one is worth than that to me.
 
Ive been know to press stainless steel window screen into jb weld. Grind to rough bare metal. Go 3x larger than the crack minimum. Unless your burning oil plugged mufflers are rare unless its rust or low rpm while running. Glowing is normal here at 745 aslevel. On hasoline. Diesel not so much.

If you only have a stick welder. Find a heavy nail or other pc of metal to weld too. The filler strip will take much of the heat and allow you some abilty to float the gap. Mufflers fatigue they work harden at the crack.
 
Unless your burning oil plugged mufflers are rare unless its rust or low rpm while running. Glowing is normal here at 745 aslevel.
Except start-up and cool down, engine runs full RPM's (it's a mower). I'm "thinking" the red glowing is because I put some fiberglass and metal insulation directly on the muffler, thus holding in more heat. OEM just has a heat shield (which broke off). I incorrectly assumed the insulation would be good for the fuel system that's only about 6-8" away.
 
Tell me if this is normal.
I put an infrared heat thermometer to the exhaust system. The pipes coming out of the engine are about 250 degrees.
I shoot the muffler exterior and it's closer to 500 degrees.
I'm going to go get one of my better thermometers to confirm these numbers but should the muffler be 2x the temp of what's coming out of the engine?

Oh, and on a 10 minute test run, the muffler patch tape is holding... but smoking.
 
When the manifold cracked on my 12kw generator I wrapped the crack with Tiger tape, then ordered a new manifold. The Tiger tape held up just fine until I installed the new manifold. Sure, I could have welded it, but buying a new manifold for a $6500 generator was a good investment to me. I like keeping my equipment like new.
Several years I bought a new Bercomac snow blower, Canadian built, and found out the fuel tank had a crack on it. I used JB weld on the crack, and ordered a new gas tank under warranty. The JB weld repair is still holding. I put the new tank in my inventory.
 
Color affects the emissivity of the IR scan as does metal type affecting readings each gun is different you have to look at the manual for it and find the cone size.
The cone of the IR window gets bigger the further gun is from the device being measured and it averages the reading in the cone even though the laser pointer says your looking at this spot and your 10 feet away the "window" is fairly large and it averages everything in that cone.
 
So, the muffler tape seems to be working. A few hose clamps around the tape where the gaps were for extra protection.

Still thinking about heat around the exterior of the muffler as it's within 5-6" of the carb.

If I wrapped it with aluminum (just a 10" wide wrap, near the carb), will that aluminum dissipate muffler heat or hold it in?
I do NOT want the muffler getting any hotter. I used the wrap with the fiberglass and sure, it was cooler on the outside but I think the muffler itself was getting way too hot.
Think of something like what's in the link below. Not going to buy it but if I rip out the fiberglass of what I already purchased, I have a piece of aluminum.
Thoughts?

 
I wouldn't wrap it. I'd leave space began the muffler and the shield and the the shield and the carb.
The corrugated stuff is best.
 
There should be a gap between the muffler and the heat shield. Otherwise it'll just transfer the heat. When I ran the exhaust from my generator through the wall, I cut the hole a little bigger than the exhaust and wrapped it with a heat proof wrap.
The heat proof wrap could work in your situation too.
 
Can you form one out of a piece of sheet metal?
Thought about it but for now, I'm going to let it air breathe. Choking the muffler hasn't worked out.
I'm thinking of going the opposite way and insulating/isolating the fuel system/carb instead.
Maybe I'll just let it go and see how long I live before the thing catches on fire.
 
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