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Hydraulic slave cylinder for Spryte clutch

zspryte

Member
Site Supporter
Put in a new clutch, plate, and bearing in my Spryte 1201b two years back. I have an OC-4 with no tranmission. I just noticed when the clutch pedal is fully depressed the drive shaft starts to spin up after the drive-shaft brake is released. I went to adjust the linkage between the clutch cylinder and clutch lever, and noticed oil on the threaded bar and the rubber housing around the cylinder. I am not sure if the oil is coming from the cylinder or dripping from spills when filling the engine oil.

I thought maybe when the clutch was replaced, the linkage was not adjusted quit right and now the piston has to travel too far. Perhaps this is allowing oil to leak and might be fixed by just adjusting the linkage. Maybe not.

The clutch pedal goes all the way down to the floor so I am concerned about a leak. I see the clutch cylinder in the cab has a rubber boot on top of it that a rod from the pedal passes through. Given the cylinder's funny shape, I assume it also contains the reservoir. Can someone tell me how to check the oil level in it? If it is low, what type of fluid is recommended. Just regular automotive type?

If I determine the cylinder by the clutch is leaking, what is the best way to go - rebuild or replace. Either way, does anybody have a part number for the rebuild kit or cylinder? Thanks in advance for any information.
 

zspryte

Member
Site Supporter
Someone knowledgeable straightened me out on my numbers. I have a 1202a Spryte - 1967 with an OC4

In case someone is looking, the clutch slave cylinder is a Wagner-Lockhead SS FD-48909 (the 0 is maybe a C). The SS was on the cylinder, but not stamped like the rest of the number. Anyhow, the repair kit for it is a Napa # 328. It is obsolete, but I found a Raybestos kit CSK328 on eBay. The repair kit for the master cylinder is Napa # 212.

To fill the reservoir, I put DOT 3 brake fluid on top of the master piston in the master cylinder. I then pulled the piston up a bit. The fluid on top drained into the reservoir and then into the working part of the cylinder below the master piston. The system bleed pretty easy even though the tubing has a full loop.
 
Again, spryte Improvement in Wallace Id, they have rebuilt units as well as kits, they manufacture stainless steel pistons that retain the oem # rebuild kits, they are a little spendy but work great from what I am told.
Someone knowledgeable straightened me out on my numbers. I have a 1202a Spryte - 1967 with an OC4

In case someone is looking, the clutch slave cylinder is a Wagner-Lockhead SS FD-48909 (the 0 is maybe a C). The SS was on the cylinder, but not stamped like the rest of the number. Anyhow, the repair kit for it is a Napa # 328. It is obsolete, but I found a Raybestos kit CSK328 on eBay. The repair kit for the master cylinder is Napa # 212.

To fill the reservoir, I put DOT 3 brake fluid on top of the master piston in the master cylinder. I then pulled the piston up a bit. The fluid on top drained into the reservoir and then into the working part of the cylinder below the master piston. The system bleed pretty easy even though the tubing has a full loop.
 

zspryte

Member
Site Supporter
Update - filling the master cylinder for the clutch is actually super easy. Unconnect the battery. Remove the four screws that hold the instrument panel on, pull the panel out and move it aside. Going through the hole where the panel used to be, loosen the clamp on the bottom of the rubber boot on the master and pull the boot up. Pull up on the clutch peddle, swing the plunger aside and you now have free access to the top of the fluid chamber.

The last owner wired stuff so you couldn't move the instrument panel more than 6 inches. When I updated the wiring last year I make sure there was enough wire to put the panel on the dog house. Thiokol designed things pretty good as long as nobody kluges things up.
 
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