Bombadier J5

J5CRUSH

New member
Hello members! I'm am totally new to this and would like some assistance. I own a J5 and this fall decided to do all the bearings, races, seals, spring canister etc. I use it for ice fishing here in Manitoba. I felt the machine bounced way too much, To soft. when I took off the spring canisters I also noticed the tops were worm from the track. My question is that now that everything is new and put together, the front sits high and I noticed the front bogie wheel is lower then the 2 rear ones on both sides? any suggestions on why? thank you!
 

Attachments

  • J1.jpg
    J1.jpg
    123 KB · Views: 289
  • J2.jpg
    J2.jpg
    70.4 KB · Views: 287
  • J3.jpg
    J3.jpg
    89.5 KB · Views: 286
  • J4.jpg
    J4.jpg
    72.6 KB · Views: 290

PJL

Well-known member
Welcome aboard. I don't know the answer to your question but I do approve of the airbag warning label.
 

pixie

Active member
SUPER Site Supporter
Track probably isn't touching the first wheel because the spring cans are doing thier job and putting more pressure on the arm/lever that carries the first wheel.
When the springs wear out again, it will be lower in the front.
 
Nice looking machine, definitely not your average body style for a J5. If your links , spring in a can overall length all measure the same as the originals, I would be tempted to tighten the tracks a bit more to bring down the front. Keep the pics coming !
J5 Bombardier:hammer:
 

J5CRUSH

New member
Thank you very much for the quick reply! When I went to put the assembly back together, the spring canister was about an inch to short to align with the links. Wouldn't think that it would be a problem. Put the old ones beside the new ones and seemed to be the same. Should the track be touching the top of all bogies? My front ones are not. Thought maybe in time the front bogies will come up when the spring canisters loosen?
 
The front boggies on my 2 J5s barely touch the top of the tracks , all comes down to track tension to level the machine. Mine are always a little high in the front, depending on the loads , frt blade etc. I try to avoid stressing out my tracks and axle( sprocket )parts by over tensioning. Maybe a good shakedown run on your J5 to let things settle and go from there.
J5 Bombardier
 

IMP

Member
Site Supporter
You can adjust your spring in a can tension higher buy using the farthest rear mounting holes where the rear link attaches to the walking beam. It adds about an inch of more tension to the spring. My J5 suspension felt soft and bouncy So made this adjustment and it helped allot. My springs are old and original but still function ok. Where did you find your spring in a can replacement parts. We're the links wore out too?
 

J5CRUSH

New member
I feel if I put the link to the farthest rear hole in the rear arm it would want to force the front wheel lower bringing the front higher?
 

IMP

Member
Site Supporter
increasing the track tension by the sliding rear wheel back will bring the front end of the J5 down. Increasing the spring tension by moving to the spring in a can link back to the rear position will stiffen the suspension and take allot of the bouncyness out of the ride. I adjusted my J5 so the front was about a 1/2" higher than the rear and that's worked well for me so far. I made the spring in a can adjustment to my J5 when the machine sort of "proposed / bounced" even when it wasn't that bumpy. stiffening that spring stiffened the suspension and reduced the bouncing. I think my springs are old and weak is why I needed more tension. They still work but I would like to replace them at some point.
 
Last edited:

J5CRUSH

New member
Thank you,
I will give it a try. didn't want to put to much stress on the drive axles.
Thanks again, great forum. nice to have people like you to talk to. totally new to the bombardier j5.
 

IMP

Member
Site Supporter
These J5's are great load pulling machines for swamp / brush busting tundra travelers but not so good in deep snow and on glare ice. It's a pretty bumpy / slower ride but I find them fun to drive.
 

Attachments

  • 20160908_133816-resized-1400.jpg
    20160908_133816-resized-1400.jpg
    112.7 KB · Views: 177
Hello from Spanish Ontario.

I bought my first J5 and apparently a JW?
Its a 74 chrysler 6, runs great, i thought it was a good deal and in great shape.
I am fixing a few things now and looking for advice on simple things first...
1) what engine oil and brand is best for this engine?
2) what type of transmission fluid is best?
3) bearings grease is regular? same as my tandem axle 7000 lb trailer?

Thanks guys.

I also plan to take it to pull my ice hut,any suggestions for less "banging" on the ice? Is there any track adjustments to make it ride smoother?
I also am pretty sure I have some wheel bearings to repack or repace as on side rear wheel is off centre...could be the track back too, dont know yet.

Here are some pics. Enjoy and thanks for your help!

IMG_37161.jpg
IMG_37151.jpg
IMG_2621.jpg
IMG_2595.jpg
IMG_2594.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: PJL

jflarin

New member
Hi,
I learned few days ago about the engine oil for old flathead 6 engine on a youtube video from a guy from BC rebuilding old car/engines. I can find it if you want it, but the very short version is: old non-detergent oil was used in those engines. New detergent oil tries to keep soot dissolved in the oil. Old oil does not dissolve the soot, so it would fall in the bottom of the pan and around the valve and accumulate there as a crust.

Accordingly, if you switch from old non-detergent oil to new detergent oil, the new oil is going to melt and break large chunk of crust and that's going to be a problem. So the question is: what kind of oil was used previously?

Switching to new oil is OK, but you must open the valve case and clean the accumulated soot before switching.

Regarding bearings, I had blown seals and did not put enough (often engouh) grease and I put my J5 in mud. I did destroy many bearings after about 10 year of usage (up to the point a wheel fell off. Not funny). I rebuilt everything using parts from Prinoth.

jf
 
Ok, so what you're tellig me is not to mix old oil with new oil.
But since I cant clean it right now as you explained, what oil do put it now since its very low?
 

DAVENET

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
When the engine was originally built customers had a choice of non detergent or detergent oils. Since then it has become almost impossible to find a non detergent oil. And whoever had it before you almost certainly put what ever was available off of the shelf (standard detergent oil). Your '74 has an external spin on filter, so it's 'catching crap' just like modern engines. Just grab your non synthetic 10w-30 of choice and go. BUT, only non synthetic (which is becoming harder & harder to find since most are at least semi syn).

Also a lot of older iron required lead additives in the fuel to protect the valves, but from what I have heard the flatheads had hardened seats (unlike the ford/chevy engines) and don't require it. I'm sure someone will pipe in with their thoughts/ understanding of this?
 

jflarin

New member
Hi @DAVENET ,

I always asked myself the question: why doesn't a J5 need leaded gasoline. You hypothesis looks valid. But if I'm not mistaken, leaded gazoline was also used to prevent knocking. So it is needed in high compression engine. Mopar Flathead have about 7.7 of compression ratio, which is pretty low. Maybe that's why it is not a problem? (I am too young to remember leaded fuel...)

I concur with your analysis of for the engine oil. However I'd like to know why you don't recommend synthetic for a flathead?

(I am curious to learn here...)

Thanks,
jf
 

DAVENET

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
You know JF, I would like to retract that statement. That statement was based off of 15-20 year old info with the flatheads needing a copious amount of zinc to protect parts, but modern synthetics are certainly better than they were early on and probably have all around better protection.
 
Great motor for it's time , but we are talking about a late 30's- early 40's design, and I'm still running 2 of them, with detergent 10-30 and no additives in the gas, they get regular oil changes. Biggest problem , other than the odd head gskt, manifold gskt is low oil pressure. The bypass filter system just doesn't catch enough dirt in the oil , leading to a wiped oil pump and bottom end failure ,but they will run for quite a longtime with low pressure, the knocking gets a little tedious. I've stripped 5 or 6 candidates , looking for a good one, but they all required a full rebuild, not worth the money, so I'm moving forward to 300 fords as needed.
J5 Bombardier
 
Top