Battery Drain When Not In Use

Track Addict

Bronze Member
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The 1443 with slant six has a mystery voltage drain.

When I got the cat same issue occurred. Turned out to be the diode in the alternator.

Batteries died after jumping a dead battery so figured the diodes went again so I replaced the alternator last week.

Came out tonight and battery is dead. Ther power and ground for the stereo hasnt been hooked up so it's something factory. When I attach the positive I get a spark so there's a draw somewhere.

Wires are a little crusty so maybe the shorted somewhere.

What could it be? Faulty new alternator or a result of the dual field setup and my grounding one field for the 3 wire.

There an easy diode test?
 
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mla2ofus

Well-known member
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Disconnect the ground wire from the batt and connect a test lite between the ground wire and the ground post. First disconnect the alternator wires to see if the light goes out. If if doesn't then start pulling fuses 'til it goes out. If it still doesn't go out then the problem is in an unfused circuit. This narrows down the search to whatever is in that circuit.
 

sledhead Ed

Member
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I've had brand new batteries go bad. 1 mth. Acting like a draw. quick test leave battery unhooked over night or two and see if still draws down on it's own. These batteries tested good after recharging with known good testers. Finally they would completely die after chasing them for a month or two.
 

ezroller

Active member
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I second the battery disconnect. I’ve chased these electrical demon issues for years on different vehicles and have finally just starting installing disconnects on everything that doesn’t drive daily.
 

Cidertom

Chionophile
GOLD Site Supporter
While I love battery disconnects, and use them. I would want to know what the root cause is. The pull the fuse is the simplest method. Once you get the circuit identified, I have had good luck with a clamp on DC amp meter to find the fault if its above ~~1/2 amp. below that in wiring is a pita. I've used my "tone box" and the probe I use to find data circuits. once past the fault the tone drops off.
 

Track Addict

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Thanks for the test light trick for troubleshooting. Worked great. Was the windshield wiper switch!
 
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Track Addict

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Loose poorly soldered wires in the back and when turned to off/park touching the knob creates a draw but not enough to move the wipers.

Doesn't look like factory work.
 
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norscaner

Member
While I love battery disconnects, and use them. I would want to know what the root cause is. The pull the fuse is the simplest method. Once you get the circuit identified, I have had good luck with a clamp on DC amp meter to find the fault if its above ~~1/2 amp. below that in wiring is a pita. I've used my "tone box" and the probe I use to find data circuits. once past the fault the tone drops off.
I never thought of using a tone and probe ...Thanks for the tip, I'm sure it will come in handy one day.
 

Track Addict

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Turns out to be a short or draw on the wiper motor. When in park position with new switch there is a small voltage leak. Low doesn't work under load so motor must have a bad something in it.

Was never correct since acquired it.
 

mla2ofus

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
Take the wiper arm(s) off and see if the drain goes away. If it does it could be the arms are not positioned properly for the park position.
 

willd

Member
Sounds like a toggle switch to run the wipers is in order, or a key on-hot relay to power those things that you only need when the key is on.
 
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