542 Cab Forward Restoration

olympicorange

Active member
…… looking good , the transfer case assy. is not a complicated unit... each shaft has a ''preload'' spanner nut for adjustment... I fabricated a socket to fit spanner's ,... is that an old JD 1010/1020 ?? in the background ...:thumbup:
 

GMoose

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
In the vintage car world, that is the equivalent of "Unobtainium" on the patina scale.
Whats the stone sub-surface building with a chimney...back entrance to the bat cave or a speak easy?

I think I will pass on the patina, but if you would like some I have some for sale.

The stone building is my well house, built around 1941, rebuilt roof and interior walls a few years ago. The "chimney" is actually the access to the well head, I pull the cap off and can pull the pump and pipe straight out. I live next to the Mink Creek, the well is only 18.5 feet deep now, water is just about 5 feet below the well head.
 

GMoose

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
…… looking good , the transfer case assy. is not a complicated unit... each shaft has a ''preload'' spanner nut for adjustment... I fabricated a socket to fit spanner's ,... is that an old JD 1010/1020 ?? in the background ...:thumbup:

Yes, that is a 1964 (same model year as me) JD 1010 I rebuilt several years ago. It is my main work horse, could not rebuild these snowcats without it.

DSCN3034.jpg
 

GMoose

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
…… looking good , the transfer case assy. is not a complicated unit... each shaft has a ''preload'' spanner nut for adjustment... I fabricated a socket to fit spanner's ,... is that an old JD 1010/1020 ?? in the background ...:thumbup:

Now I have some questions for you, if you don't mind helping out a bit, or if anyone out there has some helpful info I would very much appreciate it.

For the transfer case, I am researching what preload to put on the bearings. It appears the newer 2000XL model uses .001 to .003 inches of clearance for the bearing endplay between races. My research using the TIMKEN manual indicates .004 to .010 inches of clearance. I thought about calling Clyde at Tucker and seeing if he would provide what they suggest for a 1966 transfer case. The research indicates you want to have near zero endplay once the transfer case is warmed up to operating temperature. I imagine that the slow speed these gears turn that the case does not heat up much. Therefore, I am leaning toward an endplay of around .003 to .004 inches. When I took the case apart one of the bearing races for the center shaft had a couple of small spots where the race had spalled off. It also looked like the nut used to set the preload (move the race in) had backed out slightly, as the center gear had started to touch the aluminum case. Damage/wear is minimal and inconsequential.

The two case halves were assembled without use of any sealant. I see on the newer cases the factory uses silicone sealant, I am not sure I like this idea. I have had some bad luck with silicone before on this type of seal. I am considering using some different Permatex form-a-gasket type material, even thought about using copper coat. Any suggestions.

I am working to calculate the torque I want to use on all the fasteners and the tightening steps and sequence. Should have that figured out before to long.

Planning to order the bearings and seals this Friday. Still have to get the races out of the one side of the case, figured I would weld a bead around the internal diameter of the race to shrink it and free it up.

I have the wrench to adjust the nut which is used to preload the bearings about 80% built, should work well. Will attach a picture of it when I get it completed.

If you look to the far left center of this picture the center bearing race damage can be seen.
DSCN3745.jpg

Here is the minor wear on the other side of the case where the endplay was to much and allowed the gear to travel into the case. This preload nut was found to be loose when disassembly was being performed.
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olympicorange

Active member
Yes, that is a 1964 (same model year as me) JD 1010 I rebuilt several years ago. It is my main work horse, could not rebuild these snowcats without it.

View attachment 119066

…… very nice, we had one on the old farm yrs. ago,... never seen one with a loader,... I too , use an AG tractor for many tasks. i'm an Allis-chalmers brand , my A/C 160 has a 3 cyl. perkins ( the type you can get parts for ...ha.). hard to beat the ''orange Kool-Aid '', in any brand...lol
 

olympicorange

Active member
Now I have some questions for you, if you don't mind helping out a bit, or if anyone out there has some helpful info I would very much appreciate it.

For the transfer case, I am researching what preload to put on the bearings. It appears the newer 2000XL model uses .001 to .003 inches of clearance for the bearing endplay between races. My research using the TIMKEN manual indicates .004 to .010 inches of clearance. I thought about calling Clyde at Tucker and seeing if he would provide what they suggest for a 1966 transfer case. The research indicates you want to have near zero endplay once the transfer case is warmed up to operating temperature. I imagine that the slow speed these gears turn that the case does not heat up much. Therefore, I am leaning toward an endplay of around .003 to .004 inches. When I took the case apart one of the bearing races for the center shaft had a couple of small spots where the race had spalled off. It also looked like the nut used to set the preload (move the race in) had backed out slightly, as the center gear had started to touch the aluminum case. Damage/wear is minimal and inconsequential.

The two case halves were assembled without use of any sealant. I see on the newer cases the factory uses silicone sealant, I am not sure I like this idea. I have had some bad luck with silicone before on this type of seal. I am considering using some different Permatex form-a-gasket type material, even thought about using copper coat. Any suggestions.

I am working to calculate the torque I want to use on all the fasteners and the tightening steps and sequence. Should have that figured out before to long.

Planning to order the bearings and seals this Friday. Still have to get the races out of the one side of the case, figured I would weld a bead around the internal diameter of the race to shrink it and free it up.

I have the wrench to adjust the nut which is used to preload the bearings about 80% built, should work well. Will attach a picture of it when I get it completed.

If you look to the far left center of this picture the center bearing race damage can be seen.
View attachment 119068

Here is the minor wear on the other side of the case where the endplay was to much and allowed the gear to travel into the case. This preload nut was found to be loose when disassembly was being performed.
View attachment 119069

View attachment 119070

…. so, your research has pretty well ''nailed'' it … the 'OL rule of thumb for roller brgs. is … .003''-.005'' for oil clearance . you don't want too much/minimal ..''axial'' endplay.. a few thousands , so you don't have any ''binding'', heat, slop, ''noise/whine'',... etc. your ''spanner'' adj. nuts should be fine thread, ''split'' , with a small set-screw , which screws into the split, to lock the spanner nut , from moving. the real important detail here is the threads,....all of them. the spanner nuts need to thread in & out , freely & smoothly ,... by hand. no drag/burrs, etc. because , if not, it gives you a ''false pre-tense'', of the actual pre-load,... or not , the lack there of... so, that may have been part of the issue , as to why the middle one was ''backed off''. or missing the set-screw?? the case halves hardware, should be 5/16'' NF …. so standard torque is usually ; 25-28 ft./lbs.,.. using a ''criss-cross''...X … torque pattern, like a cyl. head. I agree, silicone is job specific. what I like to use here, in this application is ...''flange'' sealer,... sometimes called … liquid gasket maker,... kind of smells like ''thread lock'',... usually ''red'' in color..... also important, as in any assembly; prelube brg. & races....gives you a better /real feel when pre-loading... I have a short section on the transfer case , in the 1542 blog,... I just don't know how to ''attach'' and drag it here...hope that helps,.. ''clear as mud '', as they say. from following your blog, you have this under control.. nice work,...:thumbup:
 

Sno-Surfer

Active member
Sure enjoy this thread and your work is so thorough. Thanks for documenting it. After seeing the Frandee, expectations are high. :smile:
 

GMoose

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
…. can't quite see your powerplant,... whatcha got there....

I am assuming you are talking about the JD, it is a JD 4 cylinder gas engine. The one that the cylinder sleeves all come out together as one unit.

Thank you very much for the transfer case rebuilding information.
 

olympicorange

Active member
I am assuming you are talking about the JD, it is a JD 4 cylinder gas engine. The one that the cylinder sleeves all come out together as one unit.

Thank you very much for the transfer case rebuilding information.
…… hello G,... yes, the 1010 is one of the rare engines , that all 4 sleeves are attached to the top plate ,... when we did ours, we had a hell of a time getting them out, pretty sure it hadn't been apart before,.... I was actually asking about the engine you had hanging off the loader ….:thumbup:
 

GMoose

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
…… hello G,... yes, the 1010 is one of the rare engines , that all 4 sleeves are attached to the top plate ,... when we did ours, we had a hell of a time getting them out, pretty sure it hadn't been apart before,.... I was actually asking about the engine you had hanging off the loader ….:thumbup:

The engine out of the cat is a Jeep Tornado 230. It has an overhead cam with only 6 lobes. Each lobe runs both the intake and exhaust valves. The Pistons are domed, some have called it one of the first hemi engines, but I am not sure if it is. I think there are some photos of the engine torn apart on the first page of this thread. I have the machining complete on the engine, this winter I will be putting it together, I will post that process when I start working on it.
 

GMoose

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Frame is done for now, all welding is complete. Welded in new perimeter of the bed and new cross supports. Welded original stake pockets and tie hooks back on. Weld on new front fifth wheel supports. Beefed up welds on engine mounts and transmission mounts. Repaired miscellaneous frame damage. Yes, I am tired of welding, went through about 15 pounds of wire, a bottle of purge gas, and probably a dozen cut off wheels and misc. grinding wheels.

Here it is all tacked together, ready for welding:

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Bottom view, welding complete:

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Top view, welding complete:

DSCN3853.jpg

Using the JD 1010 to move the frame for the winter, next spring/summer I will finish anything that needs cleaned up or modified, then sand blast and paint.

DSCN3856.jpg

And here is the visitor we had this week in the back yard, just behind the snowcat:

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GMoose

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Worked on the transfer case a bit also this weekend. Got the two bearing races out of the lower half of the case. I had heard of the weld bead on the face of the race trick but had never tried it. So I tried it on these two races, two beads later, one on top of the other, and the races came right out. Great trick. New bearings and seals should be here in a week or two. This will give time to complete the tool I am fabricating to adjust the preload rings, and clean everything up for reassembly.

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GMoose

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Started cleaning up the drivelines, the front one is damaged. Took it to the driveline shop in town, which I found is now permanently closed. So, I guess I will either replace the tube myself or have my machinist friend do it for me. Looks like it will just barely fit in my Lathe, but I have no way of chucking up the U-joint end. Will figure something out.

DSCN3770.jpg

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GMoose

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Tore the hydraulic cylinders apart to see what we have. Appears the rear cylinder has been rebuilt once. It has a newer lip seal for the shaft seal, the seal in the body is what looks like piston rings, and it appears the shaft has been re-chromed. Also, this cylinder has a spacer (about 2" long) that fits down in the barrel to limit travel. Other than that the cylinders are the same with the same part number stamped on the barrels.

Looks like new seals all around, and will look into having both rods re-chromed.

Top is rear cylinder
Bottom is front cylinder:

DSCN3799.jpg

End ball joints:

DSCN3802.jpg

Rear cylinder, spacer is on right near end of shaft:

DSCN3804.jpg

Front cylinder:

DSCN3806.jpg
 

GMoose

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Tore the heater apart so I can take the heater core in for flush, checkout, and repair if necessary. Also going to take the radiator in at the same time.

Didn't get a picture of the heater core once it was out, but I have this:

DSCN3811.jpg

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olympicorange

Active member
Started cleaning up the drivelines, the front one is damaged. Took it to the driveline shop in town, which I found is now permanently closed. So, I guess I will either replace the tube myself or have my machinist friend do it for me. Looks like it will just barely fit in my Lathe, but I have no way of chucking up the U-joint end. Will figure something out.

View attachment 119203

View attachment 119204

View attachment 119205


… GM,.. the good thing about the driveshaft ends, is that they have a shoulder to slip tube onto . most of your u-joint ends usually have a ''dimple'' for the lathe pointer to set into , to set up. if yours doesn't , you may have to find center and set your own....
 
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