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1975 Tucker 1544 - project and trips

Agreed.
Both exhaust manifolds had blown gaskets and warped out of plane. The exhaust manifolds are getting planed again.
The intake manifold has an exhaust cross over and is plated off. That cross over should see no pressure but there was enough pressure to burn through the gasket under the plate.
I was just talking to my buddy here and he said it all points to a restricted exhaust.
As for the O2 it can be ran on one (the right) side, or install a cross over pipe. That’s a discussion for the muffler shop.
I also used a dial indicator to check the TDC mark and it was good, so timing was good.




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Blackfoot Tucker said:
It’s hard to quantify what a vintage Tucker is worth. Tucker built roughly 50-100 a year, so there just aren’t that many examples out there. Also, that production figure is across all models, with varying levels of options. Realistically too, some are in excellent condition, and others are pretty well trashed. Being able to accurately quantify differences is difficult.

My suggestion would be to contact Mary Guthrie at SnoTrans (208) 549-2501. She’s a nice lady and has a lot of experience. Very ironically she currently has a 1981 Tucker 1544 with a front blade listed for sale on consignment. It looks like a very nice machine.Here’s a link:

TUCKER SNOCAT EQUIPMENT, USED SNOCAT TUCKER SNOCATS GROOMERS SNO-CAT REFURBISHED SNOWCAT

High Quality Used Tucker SnoCat Implements for snow grooming, search and rescue and over the snow travel, Refurbished Newer Sno-Cat machines and Sno Cat tools
www.snotrans.com
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Blackfoot Tucker said:
It’s hard to quantify what a vintage Tucker is worth. Tucker built roughly 50-100 a year, so there just aren’t that many examples out there. Also, that production figure is across all models, with varying levels of options. Realistically too, some are in excellent condition, and others are pretty well trashed. Being able to accurately quantify differences is difficult.

My suggestion would be to contact Mary Guthrie at SnoTrans (208) 549-2501. She’s a nice lady and has a lot of experience. Very ironically she currently has a 1981 Tucker 1544 with a front blade listed for sale on consignment. It looks like a very nice machine.Here’s a link:

TUCKER SNOCAT EQUIPMENT, USED SNOCAT TUCKER SNOCATS GROOMERS SNO-CAT REFURBISHED SNOWCAT

High Quality Used Tucker SnoCat Implements for snow grooming, search and rescue and over the snow travel, Refurbished Newer Sno-Cat machines and Sno Cat tools
www.snotrans.com
Click to expand...
Hmmm…?

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YamaDooPolCat said:
Agreed.
Both exhaust manifolds had blown gaskets and warped out of plane. The exhaust manifolds are getting planed again.
The intake manifold has an exhaust cross over and is plated off. That cross over should see no pressure but there was enough pressure to burn through the gasket under the plate.
I was just talking to my buddy here and he said it all points to a restricted exhaust.
As for the O2 it can be ran on one (the right) side, or install a cross over pipe. That’s a discussion for the muffler shop.
I also used a dial indicator to check the TDC mark and it was good, so timing was good.




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I can't tell what brand the existing exhaust manifold gaskets are, but I highly recommend Remflex brand exhaust manifold gaskets.

They are more expensive, but they are worth the extra money.

To give credit where it's due, it was 1BG who turned me on to them.
 
Tacoman said:
That is a good looking radiator. Do you have a part number. Is there an automotive crossover number? I was hoping not to have to pay for a custom radiator. It looks like you had to build a fan shroud. Was there a fit problem with the factory shroud? Some detailed pictures would be appreciated if you can find the time. I will be doing the same job on my Tucker this summer.

Thanks
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This is where I found the rad I bought.
Look under the 1970 and 60’s Dodge line up to get the correct hose connector orientation and the side mounting flanges plates.
Tucker must have used Dodge radiators because this one fit really well.

 
Fun findings. Bummer that marys web site is down.

As far as runnability on your rig. Im staying with my diagnosis. You are lean.

my instrumentation training got me lots of experience in engine tuning. I applied that experience on ARA rally racing and torc short course off road tech inspectors.
You dont strike me as a WOT (wide open throttle) operator. A 2" pipe can flow quite a bit of air, i agree it appears restricted or restrictive. The restrictive exhaust route is also the one element that likely hasnt changed during your heating journey.
With all that said.
Oxygen sensors have specific position needs to operate. I found i could move it in or out of my laminar flow in my exhaust and make them read different values. If they are not in laminar flow their output is very inaccurate. If memory serves me correct the wide band o2 sensors need something like 10 pipe diameters of straight pipe up stream and 5 down stream.. ive been around enough tuckers to know thats hard to find in the engine bay.

This just some $.01 ramblings so do as you please but give it a thought.

In theory you shouldnt overfuel in closed loop as it knows rpm and air in. It fuels accordingly and checks fuel out. Open loop and restricted exhaust may overheat the exhaust but again you would really have to have a high tps or at least the throttle position sensor gain.
 
To set the hot idle on the Sniper there is a screen that shows the IAC and TPS. The TPS must read zero to set the IAC. I noticed the TPS would climb as I opened the throttle with the set screw. When the TPS rises the engine must be turned off and restarted to zero the TPS reading.,
So while searching for the IAC setting I had to restart several times to zero the TPS.
From this I’m thinking the TPS is working and reading.
Correct, I don’t think I have ever put my foot to the floor.

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Understood.

That process of zeroing out the *air in* is the point.

Map sensors use vacumn/pressure and rpm and one or two air temperatures to create a data field for injector pulses. Or pulse width.

It compares that data to one or two oxygen sensors. Or your output.

I can make oxygen sensors read a variety of values bases on their position in the exhaust stream.
Example.
We had a catalytic converter rule. (Must have one)
they used our obdii or can-bus data to compare against their pyrometer reading. Basically output of cat had to be hotter than input. If it matched our sensors we were deemed to have a functioning catalyst.
One sensor in the stream. One out but surrounded by expanded metal provided the temp rise.

Your A/F data on your display is created data.
with your upgrades.
Tstat.
Shroud
radiator
fan
fresh engine

you should not be hot. Either air cant get out from under your hood or your rich/lean.
Find a good auto tuner / race shop and have your exhaust anylized.

My $.02 stays on lean
Lean makes engines hot
Rich makes exhaust hot
 
I didn't read the last few pages.
If you're having idle tuning and or tuning issue trying to get it to auto tune it can be your pcv system.
Do some searching online about it.
Have buddy I let use my shop and we built his 442 here and it did 10.88 in the quarter mile with a carb. We put on a snyper system and took a lot of playing and phone calls to get it to run good. way better than the carb. part of it was eliminating the pcv system to a catch can.
Oxygen sensor can go on just one side and it should be a certain length from the manifold or header end.
Also, can't be 90-180 degrees from the top of the pipe. it will contaminate the sensor quickly and the moisture in the exhaust will ruin from sitting at the wrong angle
 
Correct on the O2 seating.
Will be doing the right side exhaust for the O2.
My buddy happened to have an original Mopar exhaust valve that he bought about 30 years ago. He suggested we install this valve as the Tucker sits in the cold extended periods waiting for me to finish hot tubbing and camping. So heating the intake manifold is imporant,
Looks good. OEM stuff is so much fun!
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Also used the Remflex exhaust gaskets.
 
Dual exhaust installed.
Found problem with the distribution vacuum port on the Holley Sniper not being zero vacuum. So reset the plate opening and managed to get the vacuum done to 5~3 inches at which point the distributor advance doesn’t kick in when I plug in the distributor vacuum.
Had good power and no more overheat while running. The motor still wants to overheat at idle so it look like I need to tunnel the fan shroud or find a flex fan.
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I caught a cold while at Juno Beach and it has
lasted a week.
It should be as easy to clear as this!

 
Since the engine temperature tends to spike after a run while sitting idling, I have been thinking about the situation.
When I installed the 360 engine I used the 318 water pump as it had the correct connections and orientation to hook up hoses.
Does anyone know if the 318 pump has a small volume water pump?
They looked identical, and bolted on using the same gasket.
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I changed the thermostat back to 180f as the engine is now running too cold at 172f or less when not working hard.

Also the thought is that having the thermostat close occasionally will allow the rad to quickly build a reserve of cool water for an idle to use up.

Still hoping to get one more run this year.

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I have no data on the pumps.
The 360 does look physically bigger but photos can be deceiving.


I do however know that a small temp rise when returning to idle is normal. (And unavoidable) all engines do it. And thats why idling is suggested on diesels. Thermal mass carries heat and needs time to transfer it out of the system. Sounds like you have made some great improvements
 
These year end trips can be brutal! But better than the beginning of the year.
Changed to dual exhaust and changed the timing after getting the Holley vacuum down to 5 psi and changed the thermostat to a 180f.
So time for a test run.
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I found I had to keep the rpm above 3,000 and best st 3,800 rpm to keep the engine temperature below 215f.
Not impressed!!
I have all summer to sort out an electric fan for this Tucker.
So that is one project.
Then things took a turn for the worse.
 
I left the cabin early for the 35 mile trip out and about 1/2 mile later the Tucker fell through a snow fill that had rotted out. The front drive had the tipped up toes and rode through the hole, but the rear tracks didn’t have any tip up on the lead wheel so it went straight in and tried to flip.
Both rear springs broke and the drive shaft spit it self out after breaking the u joint straps. Surprisingly the u joint still looks good and the drive shaft appears straight still.
The track in the hole also derailed the lead couple idler wheels.
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This place in inaccessible in the summer, so there is no quitting here.
I have a 16,000 pound winch that goes on the back of the Tucker so using the winch and shoveling and loosening the track I managed to wiggle out of the hole and get the track back in place.
In the meanwhile my buddy on his skidoo has text me via satellite that his sled is down on a failed engine about 6 miles ahead of me and he needs to be towed out.
I have managed to use a chain and the winch line to hold the spring pieces from hitting the track so I am mobile.
I only have front drive now so the diff lock on the front helps a lot.
I am still pulling my Polaris hooked up to my fuel skimmer at this point.
About a mile later as I am slowing down for a drop in the trail the Tucker comes to stop. I was being careful as I was sure how my tie down on the rear differential was going to be, so I thought there was trouble in the back end.
Turns out the front right lead top idler had broke itself free and jammed between the cleats. I had to unbolt one cleat to get the idler wheel enough slack to fall out.
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The right front track seemed to not mind that the idler was gone, after I tightened up the track a bit more, and I kept traveling.
Now I have made it to my buddies sled and we hooked that sled on behind my sled.
So now the Tucker is pulling two sleds and a fuel skimmer, all in about 1,300 lbs.
And it is too much. The air temperature is about +6c, the snow is getting rotten and the Tucker spins out and get stuck on hills now. We disconnect the tow and use the winch to get us up the hill the first time we get stuck.
The next time I stopped as the Tucker started to hop and had my buddy hop on the Polaris sled and start it up and start pushing in the tow. That worked pretty good, but there are too many hills, so we disconnect the tow and made the Polaris pull the fuel skimmer and his dead Skidoo.
Now the Tucker only had itself to look after. It is late afternoon and the snow is getting softer and I’m happy the Tucker didn’t spin out, although I could tell it was throwing a lot of snow for not much speed.
By then the engine temperatures and under hood temperatures were out of control with the inconsistent driving and stopping too often.
So what happens next is the coated line that shifts the transmission melts out and I’ve lost the able to shift.
We disconnect the cable at the transmission, set the lever to park, start the engine, I hold the brake and buddy bangs the lever to second gear. There is no more stopping. The average speed is 18kph for the next 20 miles to the trucks.
Buddy follows along behind with the Polaris. We rode about 30 miles in the mountains on sleds yesterday and I had not refueled the Polaris, but not worried as the fuel skimmer he is pulling still has 90 liters of fuel.
 
oh my, guess you are glad you got out, what a massive failure, guessing tuckers are not invincible.... now you have a summer project
 
Once upon a time, I had a roller fall out of my track and get lodged in the upper rail on the pontoon. (Passenger side rear). The whole pontoon stood straight up, smacked hard into my flatbed... and scared the bjeepers out of me. Fortunately, I was not going very fast and I broke nothing. I got out, looked at what was there, got back in, backed up and set the pontoon back down, got out and finished removing the broken roller and parked it for the week.

I don't wish an incident like that on ANYONE. :hide:
 
Finally wiggled the Tucker into the shop, after removing the blade system.
I figured out I could start the Tucker in any gear by grounding a terminal in the wiring. To change gears I simply shut the engine off, manually shift the transmission to the one I want, hop back in the cab and hold the brake while I start the engine, and we are moving.

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YamaDooPolCat said:
Finally wiggled the Tucker into the shop, after removing the blade system.
I figured out I could start the Tucker in any gear by grounding a terminal in the wiring. To change gears I simply shut the engine off, manually shift the transmission to the one I want, hop back in the cab and hold the brake while I start the engine, and we are moving.

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Necessity is the mother of invention.
 
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