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1962 443A Tucker - V8 Poly Hot rod!

Bennyboy1337

Active member
They prob put half links to take up the wear on the rails and rollers.

Going back to full links will prob result in a track that’s too long unless you add material back into the rails or replace all the rollers or both.

Welcome to the 30 grouser club.

Shouldn't using track tightening tool to take up the slop via bending the links do the trick though?
 

Track Addict

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Only to a point. Once you get a bunch of u in them it’s tough to do much more. Adjustable noses help if you have them.

It’s a combo of wear all over. Sprockets rails rollers links grousers etc.

Bending the links actually changes the pitch which is why they went to adjustable noses.

Age only Tucker dilemma. Straightening might take some slack up also.
 

Pontoon Princess

Cattitute
GOLD Site Supporter
never use a tightening tool, it was a cheap trick repair, it works against the tracks moving without binding and seating into the sprockets, extremely bad idea

add more rail to the noses,

TA speaks from experience, good tucker man
 

Bennyboy1337

Active member
never use a tightening tool, it was a cheap trick repair, it works against the tracks moving without binding and seating into the sprockets, extremely bad idea

add more rail to the noses,

TA speaks from experience, good tucker man

All makes perfect sense. Looks like I may soon belong to the 30 grouser club then :D Bright side is I may have more spare grousers than I originally planed on!
 

Bennyboy1337

Active member
Recruited a friend over the weekend to help with track disassembly. Got every torn down in an afternoon and a case of beer.

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Harbor Freight press is the PERFECT size to tweak 400 series tracks! I found that almost every single one had a bow, and simply pressing in the middle as pictured but them back to near factory condition, this also eliminated most of the flaring of the flanges on the outside.
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Using PP's recommendation I used a rod to check my square, this was the perfect way to make sure everything was near spot on! While pressing the bow out of the grousers fixed 75% of the problems, I found that I had to press individual sides on occasion since they weren't always perfectly aligned even after removing the bow. Bending of the grousers horizontally also happened is very minor instances, so I welded a small metal jig that would allow me to prop the grousers on their side, then press them back into alignment.
Some of the flanges still aren't a close enough 90 degrees, but I figure I can address that with a custom spanning clamp once tracks are on the pontoons and rolling. The important thing is to get the link holes aligned at this stage since they are impossible to adjust once tracks are assembled.
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Found it much easier to work with assembly in sets of 10 links, easy to move around, and will link 3x of them together when I'm ready to put them on the pontoons. I also need to get a good count of how many new rollers I need to purchase, I should know for sure how my replacements I need by the time I'm done.

After assembly the tracks are noticeably much easier to rotate than before, they're moving freely and nice and smooth now that the grousers are all aligned. Despite what PP mentioned about not using link tighteners on tracks, I think it will be important to use one just on the inside links, reason being, the removable links on the inside wear out horizontally where as the outside links are welded, and never move at all. This theory is backed up by the fact that all the pins I have remove have an ever so slight bowing towards the inside. The way to address this problem is simply to bend the inside links just a hair so the pins are properly square with the tracks.

I am going to do a better write up of this wear issue and how to address it with some pictures, because I haven't seen anyone talk about it and I think it's am important step to maintain the life of these precious metal components.

1/2 of my links are done as of today posting, takes me about 3 hours to assemble everything for a single pontoon. I'm sure getting better at these damn cotter pins :D
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Mill666er

Active member
SUPER Site Supporter
Even adjusters have their limits. When you run out of adjustment and then add another 2” to them the rollers push right through the bottom of the pontoon. I made new adjusters and links for half of the grousers which took up enough of the wear to run them. The new links only correct the pitch between grousers and does nothing for the pitch wear of the grouser. I’ve started making the links .050” undersize which shortens the track but now have .100” difference between grouser pitch and link pitch but is within the slop of the sprocket.

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I was straightening grousers 1 at a time but then made a hydraulic ‘crimper’ to straighten them on the pontoon but the spring back was about 1/4”. I then decided to pull tracks off and make an adjustable stop to compensate for the spring back and work pretty well. The crimper slips over the nut and is counterbored for the roller stud so it presses on the face of the nut. The stop allows a little extra pressure to help to take some of the twist out of the ears. The ears aren’t perfect but goes pretty quick with the air over hydraulic pump.

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