spryte hydraulic pump belt

finally found a cat to buy, should be going to get it thursday. it needs a hydraulic pump belt. does anyone have a part number or dimensions for the belt.

Glad to hear you finally found something !!!!

The engine size would help people narrow it down.

I'd be taking one of those emergency belts that fit 1/2".

spryte with a hydraulic pump for a blade. it is a cog belt.
not sure but i think it is a 'c' model

gates 360h150

thanks for the part number.

i now own the cat, as usual after the fact i think i paid too much. the tracks are far rougher than what i thought. serviceable, but thats about it. almost none of the lights work, but that shouldnt be hard to fix. body is pretty straight, seats are good, glass is good, trans shifts well, rear end works fine. might need a master cylinder rebuild, and a tire when the tracks get redone.

BUT, it has a turbo on it and it runs pretty poorly. off idle it has great hesitation and, under load, low power. it got a new carburetor on it recently and i am thinking that they just bought a carb and bolted it on not realizing that with a turbo the jetting would need to be much richer. i finally got the modified engine cover off the passenger side and wow what a hack job on the turbo install. it looks like disposable pie tins for heat shielding, and license plates for heat shielding on the cover, "manifold" from the carb to the turbo is totally hacked. the motor is supposed to have been new 500 hours ago, and i would believe that, it is seeping from the valve cover, but otherwise looks far too clean for 34 years old. the starter looks new, carb is new, turbo is supposed to be new and looks like it. it has 3 hydraulic circuits to the rear and a 6 way blade. the blade pivots need some work but everything is there.

the turbo is coming off the carburetor installed back where it should be, the rear hydraulics are coming off, the "roll bar" is going to go away also. the blade pivots have to get fixed and at some point in time i will rebuild the tracks.

where can i find the passenger side half of an engine cover? or an entire one? windshield wiper motor? maybe a throttle linkage?

lets see some pics!

witch covers are you missing? i may have some

we need pics of the cat and the hack job

i need the passenger side of the engine cover. from the center hinge to the passenger seat.

what year of spryte i just replaced both heater motor in mine ill find the napa part number for ya

i have a hydraulic belt on the way. i yanked the turbo and all the associated crap. it appears that there is an adapter of some kind to go from the carb to the manifold. if it sit the carb on the manifold, it is sitting sideways, which would make the throttle linkage a little tough. can anyone tell me what is supposed to be there? i was thinking of just taking the stock manifolds off and putting on some aftermarket stuff with a 2bbl. is there a reason not to do that?
while i had it apart and knew it was not going to be a couple hour project, i started on removing all the other added crap. there is an engine water heater mounted behind the alternator, plastic barbed fittings to 'T' the water lines, hoses that i cant believe are not leaking, and just overall poor quality of installation and parts. one of the hoses is worn through so far that i just can believe it still holds water, the plastic 't' is seeping. i removed the 3 valve aux hydraulic valve, and started to pull the hoses that went to the rear, some of the oil looked good, but some not. then when i drained the hoses, there was water in them. looks like i need to change the hydraulic oil filter and drain the rear end. between the valve, the hoses, and the other stuff related to the rear hydraulics, there has to be over 100 pounds of stuff. next i need to get rid of the "roll bar" it is 2" square tube with a battery switch mounted to it and a fire extinguisher, it makes the back seat nearly worthless, it probably weighs 50 pounds or more.

can anyone help me out with what i need to do for the carb mounting to get this thing going?

remove that tank heater and install one in a freeze plug hole it will work a lot better im guessing you have some special manifold for the turbo what kind of motor do you have

it still has the 300 six in it. the turbo install may have worked well at one point, but it barely was able to drive up my driveway when i got it home. i could have given it more time to see if it was going to be ok, but the guy i bought it from had replaced the carburetor and it was installed without an air filter. i assumed that the carb had not been tuned for the turbo and as such i thought the motor could be short for this world if that were the case.

the further i get into this thing, the more i regret buying it. it is not so much that it needs maintenance as it needs to be repaired. so many things on it are done so poorly and it looks as though maintenance was not something the previous owner was any good at. i am trying to remain positive and keep the the goal in mind. the goal is a running cat i can go have some fun with.

i have gotten the rear auxiliary hydraulics out, all the hoses and extra crap, there must have been 100 pounds of hoses, valves, and other items. i started taking out the "roll bar" but it is welded to the body in a few spots and i didnt want to get the die grinder out just yet. i have the old inline heater out, and most of the crappy hoses, i have the seats out, the old fuel line, and have started taking off some retro visors. removed the turn signal switch as well. it has dual batteries with a battery switch, the battery switch was mounted to the roll bar on a piece of 1/4" plate steel about 12" x 18". the pile of junk parts is getting pretty big.
can anyone tell me the proper plumbing of the heater lines? right now there is one line coming off the side of the block, and two off the front of the motor. inside the door for the radiator cap there is one line coming off each side of the heater core, but one has a 't' on it and so there are 3 lines going toward the motor. is the one coming off the side of the block an extra that someone put on? is it normal for the fuel line to be run inside the passenger compartment? is it normal for the lines going to the oil filter to be #8 hydraulic hose?
the vacuum line to the back of the transmission was full of gasoline!

what a mess i stepped into.

i have seen this with modulator hoses before replace all your vaccuum hoses as they will be soft now and colaps when you have good vaccuum you described a tank heater install that is what the line in the block is for remove that port and plug it liik under the hood of a ford truck and you will see how your heater hoses run one should come off the waterpunp the other should go back in to the head some place my e-mail address is levergunsatgmail.com e-mail me some pics of your turbo i may be interested in it for a future project don't feel bad about all the wrk you are puttingg into it i have put hundreds of hours of sweat equity in to my little snow trac and she now makes me good money and i can load up the family and take a ride now any time i want

i have put the turbo back on, will try to get it driveable and probably just sell it. i have had a genuine lack of motivation for the last couple years, i really hoped that this project would be what i needed to get off my ass. i started out with great grand plans and not concerned about having to do some of this stuff, but the farther i get into it the more i question where it will end. it is just a ford six, nothing that hard to deal with, but in short order i learned that these cats are not easy to work on, hard to reach, hard to see. then i wonder if the motor was built for the turbo, if it is then it wont run for beans with a naturally aspirated setup. what i need for parts is not that much, but part of the problem is that i dont know what it is i need. i can put the carb on the manifold, but then the throttle linkage on the carb is 90 degrees to the throttle linkage on the motor. is there a spacer under the carb to turn it 90 degrees, or is there a linkage to operate it as is? i found a picture of an industrial 300 and it looked like the carb was bolted directly to the manifold. then there is the need for the other half of the engine cover, where can i find one of those?
all in all it isnt that big of a deal, IF you know where to find the parts and what parts you need. if there were a junkyard close by, i would go see if i could find what i need.

i did some looking and found that the turbo that is on it, is a common one for hot rodders to use. it is a rajay 301e80, found them new for about $500 to $650, this one appears to be in good operating condition. if i could get a couple hundred out of it, it would offset an intake, carb, and header.

does anyone know if there is a problem with putting a 2bbl aluminum intake, and carb on a spryte? can you use an aftermarket intake and a stock exhaust manifold?

i have a buddy who has an offenhouser and 2 bbl hollet on his it still dosn't run right mu suggestion would get a stock carb intake and exhaust manifold these should be available at your local wrecking yard that way you have a proven set up

it still has the stock intake and exhaust manifold on it, but the carb is an automatic choke version, a carter yf1? it is a rebuild, but that is all i know about it.
my plan was to remove the turbo crap and put it back to stock, but it appears i am missing some carb linkage, and an air cleaner. BUT if the motor was built for the use of the turbo it will have low power with out the turbo.

Spencer, I might be missing something but a couple of things are not adding up?

Is there a box around the carb. turbo carbs need to be completely pressurized to work right.

If not the reason your Vacum lines are full of fuel is because the turbo is pressurizing the carb above atmoshpere and the fuel is going out to the world so to say.

I may not be hacked to bad, it sounds like it is not fully installed. Look through the stuff you got with it and it might clicdk a light on in your mind.

Missin air cleaner, fuel in the vacuum lines, running like crap.....
Might be off my rocker but with out seeing it is hard to be accurate.
Mike

draw through turbo.

Two ways to do a turbo and a carb. Blow through and suck through. In the blwo through case you have to have a much higher fuel preasure to conpensate for the boost preasure. The fuel presure should be at least a couple of psi more than the boost preasure....And the carb is either sealed or in a box to contain boost preasure.

I wonder if your is a suck through, cause you stated it is missing the air cleaner. A blow through set up the air cleaner woud be on the suction side of the turbo and a tube would connect The presure side of the compressor to the inlet on the carb. No air cleaner could be put there. On a suck through system you could be looking at the top of the carb while it is running...

Pictures? Any way you can? You have a bunch of knowledge and guys that right here that can help. We're all pullin for ya here! We know how hard and long you have been hunting a cat. I am sure many here will do anything we can to help you out. If you are always easily discouraged, you won't ever finish anything. We've all been there. Hell a bit ago, I was under my daughers boyfirend pickup truck welding a hole in the oil pan.(4.9l..300) It took way to much time, for a good kid who hauls my daughter around it this truck. Damn kept making pin holes at the edges of the weld. But eventually I got there.... Small problems are some times not easy to fix. And it takes time. You don't find parts just as you wish. It takes patients to tolerate this. Hang in there, you have a machine. Maybe you just need to hunker down and do what needs done. As long as it takes.

Could the engine door be fabbed up easily? Or is it a job for a pro?

Best regards, Kirk

Oh by the way

If it was built with a Turbo in mind, it might have slightly lower compression piston, but not enough to upset it very much, naturally asperated that is. Many are built in the 8 to 1 range, nearly the same as stock. They might have used a forged piston with the blower though. At any rate it should still work Ok with just the Carb on it.

Kirk

Compression ration can be figured out quite easy with a few plumbing fittings and a little antifreeze/light motor oil.

Draw thru turbo is a interesting system. heat and mixture together... hmmmph.
Must work.
Mike

i did quite a bit of looking on the internet for information about draw thru turbos. basically what i found is, do it if you want to work on it all the time. they are also prone to carburetor icing, not a good thing for machines that operate in cold wet weather.
i ran it long enough to get it into the shop (5 minutes) and there was already ice forming on the manifold under the carb.
if it was done nicely i would have pursued making it work. but the install from the manifold to the exhaust work to the plumbing was pretty poorly done, not to mention the giant cover that was up against the passenger seat and the heat had melted the seat belt.
i am into original and reliable, or nicely done and reliable. but hacked and unreliable is crap.

Was this paticular machine originally a wide track and now has tracks with the inner and outer belts removed and the grousers cut to match? 2 man cab?

Spencer,

I have been around both types and would say your right about the suck through systems. Don't blame you for wanting it original a bit. It should be pretty easy to get back to original. Idealy I would choose a much later 4.9 inline with fuel injuection and computer controls....But hey I am just dreaming a bit here...The carb version will be just fine.

Regards, Kirk