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1404 Imp Engine Oil (v4)

rodre

Member
Hello,

The manual calls for SAE 20-20w engine oil, I am guessing this is the same as SAE 20w-20, or SAE 20w? In any case none of these are easy to come by, what are you Imp owners running in the stock v4 for oil?
 

rodre

Member
Oh, Also some part numbers for Oil Filter would be helpful. I can't get the one in the manual to cross reference to anything. Thanks.
 

hansoni

Member
I found this online somewhere I don't recall.
 

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Snowtrac Nome

member formerly known as dds
GOLD Site Supporter
oil technology has come a long way since the manual was printed you should expect to see extended life from a good multi visc oil like 10 w 30 you may want to add a zinc additive for flat tappet lifters or use a cc grade diesel oil
 

rodre

Member
Does anyone have a part number for the oil filter? The one on mine is going to need to be unscrewed to view the label. Thanks.
 
dude----get a grip on life-----go to Walmart a buy a jug of oil ----pick one any one----and change it once every ten years------really---- a big deal over oil---better yet buy a dyno test them all and report back here
 

rodre

Member
dude----get a grip on life-----go to Walmart a buy a jug of oil ----pick one any one----and change it once every ten years------really---- a big deal over oil---better yet buy a dyno test them all and report back here

Admittedly I am a bit compulsive, but hey I like to take care of my stuff, especially when I can't just go to Walmart and buy a new engine. I also no longer have a shop, engine hoist, etc. to pull/rebuild/put in said engine, so I am trying to put in the time upfront for peace of mind if nothing else. If that bothers some people well that is not my intention, but I guess the bothered don't need to read or respond either.

Perhaps when I am retired I will have the time and means to buy the dyno and test them all. One can only hope.
 

rodre

Member
After Snowcat Pat pointed me towards BITOG (thanks!) I took a deep dive into the history of motor oil - pretty interesting stuff. Among the more interesting reads I found:

http://www.earlytimeschapter.org/engineoils.html

and

http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Corvair_oil.pdf

to be the most helpful.

The Thiokol manual calls for an "MS" rated oil. According to the PDF in the link directly above that equates to an API SD, API CA , or at least an API SC, in today'a API rating standards. Check out the standards at:

http://www.api.org/products-and-ser...ies-and-documents/oil-categories#tab_gasoline

Looks like the 55 gallon drum of the Lubriplate 20w-20 has to go back as it only rated at API SA.

The only SAE 20w-20 oil that I could find that met the above standards are preferably:

https://products.liqui-moly.com/touring-high-tech-20w-20-3.html

or alternatively:

http://www.ravenol.de/en/products/usage/d/Product/show/p/ravenol-super-truck-sae-20w-20.html

but I have not been able to find anywhere to order these for North America. I have an email in to the local rep for liqui-moly for my area to see if he can get any and will report back here to the one or two readers who may be following this thread lol

In any case the award for knowing what he was talking about off the bat goes to:

oil technology has come a long way since the manual was printed you should expect to see extended life from a good multi visc oil like 10 w 30 you may want to add a zinc additive for flat tappet lifters or use a cc grade diesel oil

If this man speaks others should listen...
:3_7_11v:
 

rodre

Member
I went to buy oil today and the local place had full synthetics on sale for almost half price. Any thoughts on using a full synthetic oil vs. normal or a high mileage blend?

Also, is anyone using a fuel additive for leaded fuel? The manual calls for regular fuel and I believe back in the day that meant leaded. Any benefit to using an additive?
 

tomelroy

Member
Now that you have the oil type figured out, you might consider anit-freeze. My preference for most of my cats is Prestone, but on an IMP make it Quaker State!
 

rodre

Member
Now that you have the oil type figured out, you might consider anit-freeze. My preference for most of my cats is Prestone, but on an IMP make it Quaker State!

I think I can feel my leg being pulled here but I will bite, why Quaker State for an Imp?
 
try this company---they are in my town---one of the best co. in the us for anything with oils----they do a lot for the government -----BAUMS CASTORINE 315-336-8154-----I use there diesel motor oil in race engines because of the additives they put in the oil----they also still sell a castor additive for upper end lube --good for the old valves and seats because of no lead in the gas--------------this company has been around so long there building still runs the old flt. belt system to run the machines in the building----they also carry rear end fluid for wet breaks----my first cat was a cushman trackster(junk) and it had some fancy word for tranny fluid---I took them some to be tested--before I got back to my shop they called and left a message -----how many gallons of tranny fluid do u need--------and btw on my dyno oil does nothing for hp. and the old split fire snake tongue plugs did work the best and 4 prong bosh plugs suck----give baums a call and save your self a lot of time
 

turbinator62

Active member
Site Supporter
SUPER Site Supporter
About oil- If your engine has been using non detergent oil over its life and never been rebuilt, you probably shouldn't use a detergent oil. It will free up all of the deposits and sludge which will plug the oil passages and overwhelm your oil filter. If it is clean inside, or been rebuilt recently use something that is compatible with flat lifters. It needs ZDDP (Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate) as an additive. This keeps the lifters from galling. It is not added to modern oils because it wrecks the catalytic converter and new engines all have roller lifters.

Oils have changed a lot since the 60's. The cheapest oil today is better than the best oil was then.

I run Walmart 15W40 (diesel oil) in my air cooled Wisconsin on my Imp and my 76 GMC motorhome (455 Oldsmobile) It does have the additive but is a detergent oil.

If you are running in extreme cold you will probably need something lighter. I wouldn't bother with the synthetics on an old engine.
 
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