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New project 1964 Thiokol 1401
- Thread starter RosickyRanchLtd
- Start date
RosickyRanchLtd
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Got the donor truck running and driving today. Degreased and Steamed the old engine and trans spotless - looks like new. After being parked for 12 years it fired up easily. Ran well Even on the old gas. Needs a valve cover gasket and a few minor odds and ends. The Mazda engine has some neat features for 79. It uses an electric fuel pump and it has a glass window in the side of the carb so you can see the float, fuel, and fuel level! Might be handy for diagnosing problems on the trail. The engine is very compact and has an aluminum head and valve cover should keep the weight low. It is also overhead cam but uses a heavy roller chain insted of a timing belt. Also it has a hydraulic clutch slave that should be easier to install in the cat.
RosickyRanchLtd
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RosickyRanchLtd
New member
RosickyRanchLtd
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Not a snowcat but I'm also working on my grandpas 1970 arctic cat panther 634 hirth with Montana pipes. He bought it new in 1970 and raced it back in the day. I dug it out of the barn and got it running so he can drive it again. Panther print seat is out getting new snaps installed.
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RosickyRanchLtd
New member
Made some good progress today. Resealed the leaky valve cover. Ran up to temp and changed the oil. Removed the engine and trans from the truck. Notched the front cross members on the cat and got the engine and trans sitting roughly into place. Gotta snap some pics tommorow but it looks like it's going to fit and work great. The engine Is very similar in width and legnth to the original just a bit taller. Trans shifter will need to be bent forward not back and maybe extended but that's minor. Top of trans should sit below the level of the top floor. Biggest challenge so far will be fitting the steering levers and masters, clutch pedal and master, and gas pedal all on the drivers side floor. Also will have to remote mount the oil filter. The heater unit and control panel out of the truck looks like it will fit nicely on the pass side floor. Also, picked up a new 8.5" clutch, pressure plate, pilot, and release bearings to install before we mount everything permanently.
Sounds like it is comming together well. I like the engine choice. Should be relatively trouble free. Take some pics when you have time.
Regards, Kirk
Regards, Kirk
RosickyRanchLtd
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RosickyRanchLtd
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RosickyRanchLtd
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RosickyRanchLtd
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RosickyRanchLtd
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RosickyRanchLtd
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Approximate position where it will sit. Gotta Do a little more trimming of the front crossmember to get it to sit level and back another inch or so. Everything needs another steam and degrease now that it's removed from the truck. We are planning on mounting the radiator at the back with a reversing electric fan so it should only require a small "nose" like a newer imp. Measured up an old cab mounted 60s ford pickup fuel tank. Should fit nicely across the back and hold 20 gallons.
Very good advice
RosickyRanchLtd
New member
We have done quite a bit of research first. We believe the original engine weighs about 180 lbs and made 20-30 hp. This engine weighs approx 260 lbs and makes 80-100 hp. For some perspective A 1600 vw air cooled weighs in at about 215 lbs. So we've added 80 lbs so far. Keep in mind the model after this ran a ford v4 from the factory, anyone know the weight of these with the cast iron clutch assembly? Then of course the 5speed trans, however this has an aluminum case and is probably similar in weight to the 2 clutches, belt drive and shafts that we removed. So let's say with the rad, fluids, heater unit, and clutch pedal we call it 175 lbs added, I think that's a good sacrifice for 4 times the hp, reliability, and extra gearing. Most of the imps I've read about everyone complains about lack of power. Do you think the engine should be farther back?
With this wheelbase (considering track's length front to back) looking at the last picture, I would position the engine somewhere closer to the area of between the seats... IMHO (yet understand that there is not much space to do so...
With this wheelbase (considering track's length front to back) looking at the last picture, I would position the engine somewhere closer to the area of between the seats... IMHO (yet understand that there is not much space to do so...
I think this is wise advice. For and aft balace are soo important.
Regards, Kirk
anthonydoldd
Member
Similar project I did over the last couple years.. It makes for a fun cat and I think you are on the right track. However I do have to agree you may want to shift the engine further back. Or possibly extend the tracks, with your shorter tracks 80 lbs is going to have a big effect on the psi on the front of your tracks. especially with the engine out in front of the tracks.
Due to the fact that I had the V4 and T3 trans I only picked up about 40lbs with my swap. Make sure you shift nicely, the OC4 will not like clutch popping. One of the main reasons I went to auto.
Your driveshaft will end up being awful short so plan ahead to make sure its as true as possible.
I had to cut a portion of frame out under seat perch to make my exhaust work.
anthonydoldd
Member
It will be a lot of work but if you get it set up the power to weight ratio is amazing. The smaller 1404/1402 & 1401 are nice, easy to load and light. I run mine down ditches at times. Great little project!!
RosickyRanchLtd
New member
Thanks guys. Our plan is to eventually switch to torsions, add at least one more front idler, and lengthen the tracks out considerably. This should help with the extra weight up front. If we move the engine back farther then we will have to have linkage to the manual shifter which we are desperately trying to avoid. I suppose we could move the engine back and keep the same wheelbase but we would probably have to build a 2 seater and if we can't haul our wives we might be in serious trouble! We only paid $500 for this beast so we have lots of room in our budget for chassis upgrades once we have it running.
RosickyRanchLtd
New member
Thanks Anthony the pics are a big help! What engine is that you used? We are hoping with a little more power we shouldn't have to be very aggressive on the clutch. Would it be better to turn everything around and run the oc4 in reverse and have the sprockets as the front? Is that even possible? I know I have seen some cats set up this way?
anthonydoldd
Member
I used a 2.3 out of a little ford mustang, and the A4LD transmission. Its probably a little fast, it does over 30 mph which seems like 50! You wont have to be aggressive with clutch, you want to make sure that you aren't aggressive with clutch. There is so much traction and I have been told that the majority of failures of the OC4 come from popping the clutch. Bombis and snotracs have drivers in the front but I don't think that is a viable solution for you. I think you would be better suited extending the front of your machine and adding an axle. If you look you can see my machines floor pans in the front are longer than yours.
RosickyRanchLtd
New member
Right on Anthony I figured it was a 2.3 but wasn't sure. I searched and found your build thread somehow I missed it before, great job. Exactly what we are after. Did you ever get to doing the 4 larger wheels and torsions?
anthonydoldd
Member
The little guy will go back in the shop this summer.. using him now.. I have to take cab back off and paint. Build new doghouse and I will do torsion at that time. I am putting new floor and interior in my spryte right now and think i will be reengining with 250 ford and c4 trans. I don't want both out of service.