• Please be sure to read the rules and adhere to them. Some banned members have complained that they are not spammers. But they spammed us. Some even tried to redirect our members to other forums. Duh. Be smart. Read the rules and adhere to them and we will all get along just fine. Cheers. :beer: Link to the rules: https://www.forumsforums.com/threads/forum-rules-info.2974/

Rescued Thiokol 1200A - Central CA

nikadog

1959 Thiokol 4VL
Site Supporter
Hi John, I live in the SF Bay Area, I'm always looking for restoration sources in California for my snow cat. Would you mine sending me your sources for parts and services? I have a 59 thiokol. thanks. Mark.
 
Mark,
Snowcat Pat has been a huge help with parts for my OC-4 and new axles.. Remote Services in Sac is another good source. Older parts are getting hard to find.
John
 

Woody_1

Member
Re: 1200A SUV Final Design - Fabrication to Begin

With the comments from the great forum users, the last and final design is now complete. The cutting of the existing sub frame will now begin. Plan, plan, plan, cut once and weld once. The best of both combined into one SUV. Widen by 18", extend rear deck by 4" and raise the rear roof line by 12" sloping. The seating will be 2 in the front and 4 in the rear, with the ability to fold the rear seating down. Keep the comments coming as the build will always be open to options. Thanks to the great users and comments.
John

Hi I'm new here, I saw your thread of your mods to your thiokol. I like the half cab design also. I'd like to see some pics of the rig finished. Awsome design.:clap:
 
Woody1 - Thanks for the comments.. The progress has been slow as for fabrication this last year. Just picked up the engine last weeks from the engine builder, .040 bored over, complete bottom end, new rv cam for 1000-3000rpm, new guides and valve job. The cash flow seems to have taken a hit with this four legged 4-H horse project for the kids. I would not trade the learning and fun were having as the kids are growing up way too quick. The snowcat is my sanity project in the garage and the goal to complete is a moving target. I will post some more pictures when I have some real work done. I know you all love the pictures but I've fallen short.
 
Well I had a mental health day last week at the powder coaters shop. I got to take a weeks frustrations out by prepping all the undercarriage part for coating. All in total (40) pieces, (1) tran-differential, (4) axles, (2) drop box gear cases, (2) axle tubes, (20) axle clamps, (2) main bogie axle ajustments and a pile of misc part.
 

Attachments

  • 1200A PowderCoat4.jpg
    1200A PowderCoat4.jpg
    114.1 KB · Views: 597
  • 1200A PowderCoat3.jpg
    1200A PowderCoat3.jpg
    118.1 KB · Views: 597

Northcoast

Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Just wanted to say that I've really enjoyed following your build, and thanks for posting all the pictures of every step along the way. That machine is going to be awsome!
 
Well the project continues as high school for two great kids is nearing the end. In eight short years that's flown by we've seen (3) show horses with (3) world titles, (18) show-meat hogs,(5) continuous years of FFA with national trips and a priceless journey with the family.

Our Spryte 1200A Modified has not sat forgotten or neglected as I've tried to buy a part here or there and trade for technical services while family life continues. Here's a few pics of this last year and yesterdays water jetting side panels.

Found a stash of bogie tires at my local ski resort while ski patrolling last spring. I traded my labor to repair fiberglass toboggan for (2) NOS 4.5" Goodyear Monorails, had them solid filled the next day.

C4 was a fire sale on Craigslist. Was already rebuilt and ready to go.

Will vow to be a little more productive this year as we will not have all the extra animal projects and travel.
 

Attachments

  • 1200 Bogies.jpg
    1200 Bogies.jpg
    116 KB · Views: 356
  • 1200 C4.jpg
    1200 C4.jpg
    130 KB · Views: 356
  • 1200 C4 1.jpg
    1200 C4 1.jpg
    71.6 KB · Views: 371
  • 1200 200 Pan.jpg
    1200 200 Pan.jpg
    86.6 KB · Views: 359
  • 1200 200 Pan 1.jpg
    1200 200 Pan 1.jpg
    69.8 KB · Views: 359
  • 1200 C41.jpg
    1200 C41.jpg
    78.8 KB · Views: 348
  • 1200 WaterJet 1.jpg
    1200 WaterJet 1.jpg
    114.9 KB · Views: 352
  • 1200 WaterJet 2.jpg
    1200 WaterJet 2.jpg
    106 KB · Views: 357
  • 1200 New Right Panel.jpg
    1200 New Right Panel.jpg
    61.3 KB · Views: 352
Well this week was a good start to making progress again on the Spryte. Sometime in the 80's this Spryte broke an axle and was left it for dead. Back 9 years ago, could not find a single new axle and a used was $700 plus. Timing could have not been better as Spryte Improvements was just starting new axle builds. Little education in thermodynamics. Lots of reading, a couple youtube videos and a call with Pat. While not owning a 10ton press and never having a need, I opted to try manual the method. As Pat said worst case, buy one or pay to have them finished. Seeing we do not get snow outside, I stopped at the welding store and bought 5 lbs of dry ice. So for $8.50 in dry ice, 225 degree oven and a little elbow grease, the new axles from Spryte Improvements are complete. Took a quart juice bottle, cut off top and trimmed bottom to fit outside bearing seal. Crushed 3lbs of dry ice, packed the first 6" of the axle. Set oven for 225 degree and loaded (2) 5210 snap ring bearing and (2) bearing collars. Prepped all the remaining parts and enjoy a few beers while waiting on the oven. Removed dry ice, set outside retainer with seal, coated axle with antiseize, removed bearing, slide over axle and three taps with a 2" by 24" pipe. Bearing measured .007 under axle, Axle shrunk .002 and bearing grew .001. Recoated axle with antiseize, pulled bearing collar from oven and 15 drops with the pipe and a lot of elbow grease, it was set. The bearing collar measured .009 less than axle. About half way thru I had doubt but it got easier. Greased all bearing with needle and packed them off and then some. Set inside collar seal, anitiseized outside 5210 snap ring and 3308 bearing, final assemble complete axle in tube. Used old 3308 and tap hammered in new 3308 bearing in to spline side. Flipped axle tube and supported with (2) 2" square x 10" tubes. Grabbed 10lb brass sledge and set 5210 snap ring bearing. Set 3/8" x 1 1/4" stainless bolts on outside retainer.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3789.JPG
    IMG_3789.JPG
    74.2 KB · Views: 293
  • IMG_3788.JPG
    IMG_3788.JPG
    43.2 KB · Views: 296
  • FullSizeRender (1).jpg
    FullSizeRender (1).jpg
    84.5 KB · Views: 300
  • FullSizeRender.jpg
    FullSizeRender.jpg
    51.6 KB · Views: 291
  • IMG_3783.JPG
    IMG_3783.JPG
    52.8 KB · Views: 297
Friday late went by fab shop and got to load up (2) more dxf files in the sig to water jet. Front left driver and the attached photo is the front windshield. Will drop off one of the windows at the glass shop. The drop outs will be a template less 5/8" for gasket.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    79.4 KB · Views: 668

redsqwrl

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Yes fantastic, How have you been getting into the lot you bought?

Your work is top notch
 

KickerM

Active member
Site Supporter
GOLD Site Supporter
Great Work on your project!

What thickness are you using for your panels?

Thanks and Keep on Tracking!
 
Found a product thru our sign maker. I purchase direct for $52 a sheet and pick it up at the Fullerton warehouse. It's call ACM and distributed by Alumet Supply. I choose Hunter Red in 3mm panels that are 48" x 96" and painted red on both sides. The ACM is a Low-Density Polyethylene core sandwiched with two .008 aluminum painted sheets. Does not dent or ding like the original .010 aluminum. Other advantages; strong, bends easy and painted. I've looked at many surfaces and tested. Appears to have a little insulation factor too. Plan on trimming corner edges with .0625" x .5" x .5" aluminum angle.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    126.9 KB · Views: 586
Last edited:
We can break trail with powder sled and tag in with touring sleds. We opted not to build with the 2008 west coast crash. Found a foreclosure ski condo about 1/2 mile away. Prices are coming back after all these years.

Appreciate all the kind word of encouragement.
 
Last edited:
Ordered Lord Fusor 108B last week to test shear and pull. Have 1000 painted 3/16" rivets but wanted to try new method to welding with adhesive. Good friend in auto repair recommended. I'm cautious as the extreme cold and vibration had me doubting. I'm going to put it to the test before the leap. Worst case in later years start drilling and setting traditional rivets. Figured if we trust GM, Ford, Dodge and my favorite German to weld panels of our vehicles with this stuff why not try. Read a post years back but nothing since.
 
Well after prepping test materials with 36 grit, 1/8" bead of metal fusion adhesive and clamping (3) different test materials time will tell. I've set up test for 1.25", .75" and .5". The wet set time was 20 minutes, clamps removed at 2 hours and at 6 hours it's solid. They state 24 hours for full cure. I'll do a destructive test tomorrow afternoon.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3835.jpg
    IMG_3835.jpg
    133.8 KB · Views: 521
The curisioty had the best of me. Set up a very rudimentary pull test and all things held thru about .1875" deflection with distortion, by .25" material failure. In 6" of .50" adhesive, 60% held and the remaining appeared poor bond. After review, I may have over clamped and pushed out adhesive in that area of poor bond. After seeing material failure and not adhesive, I'll continue with new meathod of panel setting. Friday I've got lab time where we do our welder destructive testing of coupons so I'll get the true psi shear.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3839.jpg
    IMG_3839.jpg
    156.6 KB · Views: 485
  • IMG_3840.jpg
    IMG_3840.jpg
    80.4 KB · Views: 485
  • IMG_3841.jpg
    IMG_3841.jpg
    74 KB · Views: 480
Got a break in weather last week and had time to hand roll the back panel. Test rolled a 3" strip on 6" Sch10 Stainless. Cut it 2" wider than cab, sandwiched panel with 1"x2" and pipe and two of us rolled it on the table. Had a little time to prep panels with 36 grit. If it's dry on Friday, I'm going to start setting panels.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3927.jpg
    IMG_3927.jpg
    158.2 KB · Views: 458

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
Looking good.

I love the high tech forming tools.

That little trick will save you some serious labor $$$$$

Looking forward to seeing this kitty getting re skinned. :biggrin::biggrin:
 
Started working on OC-4 Transmission Differential. Purchased new (2) 3206 input shaft bearings as old ones were really rough. Placed shaft in deep freezer, wiped with antisieze and heated 3206 single row bearing in oven on 225 deg. Set the bearing on the input side against snap ring and it set easily. Took the second tail bearing 3206 also and tapped into existing housing. Slid shaft and started setting upper gears. Once set it took a little tapping to set tail shaft inside bearing and input bearing in trans housing. Then started on pinion shaft with lower gear set. All clearances were tight and kinda of a pain to get set in. Need to order imput shaft seal and make gaskets.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4933.jpg
    IMG_4933.jpg
    90.8 KB · Views: 372
  • IMG_4937.jpg
    IMG_4937.jpg
    79.3 KB · Views: 373
  • IMG_5008.jpg
    IMG_5008.jpg
    109.9 KB · Views: 370
  • IMG_5009.jpg
    IMG_5009.jpg
    94.2 KB · Views: 384
  • IMG_5014.jpg
    IMG_5014.jpg
    111.4 KB · Views: 367
  • IMG_5015.jpg
    IMG_5015.jpg
    93.9 KB · Views: 369
  • IMG_5016.jpg
    IMG_5016.jpg
    105.2 KB · Views: 381
  • IMG_5017.jpg
    IMG_5017.jpg
    60.9 KB · Views: 369
Last edited:
Panel bonding has not started as I got side tracked on another ski condo in Brian Head, UT. However had everything to get OC4 completed. Could not set pinion shaft preload at 8-10 inch pounds and get 3/1000th on 4th pinion gear. Pull apart 3-4 times and finally discovered the wear. The 4th gear spins on the pinion and is not on the 10 spline.
de194c62b5e21f5c9c44992936dab19c.jpg
04251dc7ac04cbf394b3c4a7a32e8f8e.jpg

There was 17/1000th play when oil washer was set and could not get the spec. Off to the machine shop for a little metal surgery.
549bb311d0ae714263bb9c7e9bfdec68.jpg

Took off 20/1000th, checked 4th pinion gear and ready to reassemble.
7573ecaf4630a9672dad366cbb453145.jpg

Reset all bottom pinion assembly of gears and checked one last before setting shims behind oil washer to get 3/1000th.
47ea2822b1de609994eaf6465cba9c62.jpg

Took 17/1000th of shims and 3 try’s to get spec clearance and 8-10 inch pounds.
3b95c27a1f178905b69a885a38046f83.jpg
b27c5a17f6d8980b936ab20c7c61e472.jpg

Tight to get dial indicator in but well worth the head ache of this gear box. What a learning curve.
5c146a242ae0f8b95e4bbed30eef84c6.jpg

Bottom end 4 speed gear box is complete.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Panel bonding has not started as I got side tracked on another ski condo in Brian Head, UT. However had everything to get OC4 completed. Could not set pinion shaft preload at 8-10 inch pounds and get 3/1000th on 4th pinion gear. Pull apart 3-4 times and finally discovered the wear. The 4th gear spins on the pinion and is not on the 10 spline.
de194c62b5e21f5c9c44992936dab19c.jpg
04251dc7ac04cbf394b3c4a7a32e8f8e.jpg

There was 17/1000th play when oil washer was set and could not get the spec. Off to the machine shop for a little metal surgery.
549bb311d0ae714263bb9c7e9bfdec68.jpg

Took off 20/1000th, checked 4th pinion gear and ready to reassemble.
7573ecaf4630a9672dad366cbb453145.jpg

Reset all bottom pinion assembly of gears and checked one last before setting shims behind oil washer to get 3/1000th.
47ea2822b1de609994eaf6465cba9c62.jpg

Took 17/1000th of shims and 3 try’s to get spec clearance and 8-10 inch pounds.
3b95c27a1f178905b69a885a38046f83.jpg
b27c5a17f6d8980b936ab20c7c61e472.jpg

Tight to get dial indicator in but well worth the head ache of this gear box. What a learning curve.
5c146a242ae0f8b95e4bbed30eef84c6.jpg

Bottom end 4 speed gear box is complete.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Once gear box was complete time to start on differential. Set differential on (2) 1” thick pine blocks, lifted and rolled into case. Stacked both right and left shims of differential bearing holder on the left side and bolted up.
299eab7d68ce20b5c71b15eafe741099.jpg

e58acddda26b947a96d77f5722ec7a99.jpg


Once bolted up left and right side, then set dial indicator to set differential bearing preload to 5/1000th. First was to check slack.

8c2267dcb7a59e2f702b2dc1295ae005.jpg
ea4091c5625d50f0eb328610d5c4cc88.jpg


Add 30 minus 5 so addition 25/1000th to left side and total shim pack was 67/1000th now on left side, 0 on right side.

Now time to set backlash between pinion and ring gear. Specs call for 6-10/1000th. With large flat bar, rock differential back and forth.

ebc7c371f7d6bb2b2878c3139c15e71e.jpg

a9550404ae6ba9a31ea9ec450c75952c.jpg


Currently at 43/1000th so I removed both right and left bearing holders, transferred 20/1000th to the right side and revolted and checked.

a23d4a58e5fea3f1336abc92862a78d1.jpg


Second step was now 25/1000th of backlash. Again unbolt and transfer shims again to right but not reducing total shim pack of 67/1000th. Moved 15/1000th to right for a total of 35/1000th on right and 32/1000th on left.

2757307f6f36b87ca1ab7a5a92d700cc.jpg


Got a final backlash of 8/1000th to meet middle specifications and called it complete. What a patient task to complete. Lots of Coors Light.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Next was to set those newly lined Spryte Improvements brake bands that Pat and Nancy have perfected. A big thanks to Pat for many discussions about the differential. It’s a chore to stuff those bands around the differential. First pry open like a clam shell, thread over differential and hope you have not opened too much as they will hit back of differential and get stuck. Once around, set top and pull bottom up, place wood under and pull bottom up again, turn down adjustment then pin. Check linkage for slack and unpin, tighten adjustment and pin.
1476a0dff454a8d197dfb08a2acc09a7.jpg
l

Time to start on slave linkage. Original slave cylinders were rebuilt with brass insert, new cups and boots from an old time rebuilder up in Northern CA. Also found later another brand new set of Wagner SC26022 on eBay for spares. Did not like the sloppy or sticky fit of the original design of the threaded turnbuckles so off to the bolt store.

4ce8aa032203368795f8ec97b0691dca.jpg


Fitted the 5/16” Treaded Ball Joints to the original slave push rods with an fine helicoil insert and JB Epoxy. Finished assembly with all new hardware.

ef8081f39e5116d29c18dc5ea318ccd7.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Did not rebuild shifter linkage, just cleaned and coated exterior. New weather boot and drift pin was required. Set gears in box to neutral position, set shifting forks to neutral, coated face with gasket sealer and it fit like a glove.

a6b0c9157ac74c55af248714d57f1d40.jpg
99c9c6a45be878451b53ed27b89c31e3.jpg


As seen thru hole (2) matched squares for the shifting linkage. Drop linkage, set - tap in oil cap, set snap ring and finish with cover boot.

98e7a7f79487fcbc728a3afef465bf6e.jpg
fab4e84c46076150a4dbbc23e15b2b3c.jpg
7d10a7ed9e7055d573641ce9e9628064.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Top